Adamw

What I mean is sending the cam at uncontrolled speed/full pressure hard into the mechanical stops is unlikely to work for very long. Think of an impact gun type effect. It will either shear something off like a keyway/stop pin/drive bolt, or the impact surface will start breaking up and send metal through the engine. What was the cam tooth pattern? Have you been told by Link that it is not supported?

The E-throttle clutch will overheat if fed constant +12V, it is suggested to PWM it. The help file suggests setting the aux to "test PWM" which gives it a constant 50% duty cycle (effectively about 7V).

Can you confirm that the exhaust cam position is now steady and not bouncing around like it was in the last log. In my testing this upsets the sync of the intake cam, so I think we we need to get the exhaust stable first.

Something like below as a starting point, most of the settings are explained in the help file.

Have a look at cal tables 7-10, they have more configurable axes. Having said that, you will get a better result by connecting the fuel level directly to the dash rather than ecu, the reason being that the dash has configurable filtering so you can dampen the fuel level signal so you arent just watching the fuel level bounce around from slosh. If you connect to the ecu you will need to add a small RC filter circuit to slow it down.

No, closed loop lambda wasnt even working in that log. What Im saying is the ecu was comanding exactly the same amount of fuel before and after the blip, yet the measured mixture changed. So that suggests there is some external influence.

Ok, I had a play around on the simulator with your tune and compared it to the S52 pattern. Your trigger pattern matches pretty well (6+1 teeth on exhaust and 6 evenly spaced on intake), but there is a small difference somewhere that is upsetting the sync, Im not sure if its the trigger offset (position of crank gap) or position of the cams but your cam teeth angles are way different. I set up the simulator to duplicate the triggerscope you attached earlier and the intake cam angles in the pic above. To make the VVT system happy I had to change the offset on both cams by 1 tooth (120deg). So try your Exhaust cam offset (trigger 2 VVT settings) at 150 ATDC, and set your DI2 offset to 166ATDC. Report back how that goes.

I dont know the current capability of the mitsi fan unit so you might be pushing it with that large pump. I know they have pretty fat wires on them originally and they are connected to a 40A fuse so I assume it is reasonable but still a bit of an unknown with no specs quoted. From memory they "work backwards" (100%DC PWM in ECU = 0% fan speed), but that is not really a drama. They give a high frequency output (~20KHz) from a low frequency input (~100Hz) so that is a bonus. Some pinout info here: https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-induction/1906766-variable-speed-pwm-fan-control-under-25-less-diy.html

As long as there is MAP and RPM and no fuel cuts active then the ECU will be sending out fuel consumption (vol per unit time), but I suspect the dash probably needs at least speed from the ABS and possibly other variables before it will be able to calculate fuel consumption per unit distance.

The coils have to be wired in pairs. Only ign drive 1 and 2 will work when set to wasted spark mode. Injectors can be done either way, they will work exactly the same regardless of whether you use only Inj drive 1 & 2 or all 4. The ECU can drive a VVT solenoid directly, but slamming in 60 deg of advance at full pressure sounds dangerous... Why doesnt it have a cam sensor?

The exclamation mark in device manager is the problem, it wont work until that driver is happy. What happens if you instead choose "browse my computer for driver software", then navigate to C:/Link G4/Link USB Drivers

CAN wiring is meant to be twisted pair, if they are short you may get away without them being twisted pair.

Do you hear the fuel pump prime when you turn the key on? You might have to swap the polarity setting on Aux 2.

Arming threshold will not change timing unless you have lots of noise which I dont see in your scopes. As per Vaughans response, if it is a general drift with RPM that you are seeing then I would be expect you will get it closer by adjusting delay. Also, check you are on recent firmware, there have been some improvements to high tooth count decoding over the last couple of years.

The X-series has CAN bus, it would be better to use that. But yes, if you are using an analog input and the device has a dedicated analog/signal ground then connect that to ECU sensor ground.

It is unlikely to affect the tune as you usually switch to full speed much earlier than needed. Mostly it is used just to make the pump quieter at idle and cruise. Try something like this:

We cant unfortunately, it is illegal in most countries to have any device connected that is capable of manipulating the legislated OBD2 functions.

When you do the cam angle test on the LH inlet, using a test pulse count of 6, are the reported cam angle numbers reasonably stable - say within 1 or 2 deg? Can you note down those numbers and list them here. The cam angle numbers that where showing when you saved the tune are a bit odd in that 3 of them are the same number. I dont see too much else wrong in your setup.

Whats the partnumber? It seems very odd for an injector that is advertised as 1000cc to only flow 711cc. The advertised flow rate is usually quoted at 3bar except for GM injectors which are usually quoted at 4bar.

The ECU is commanding exactly the same injector pulse width immediately before the blip as it is afterwards, yet your lambda changes by more than 10%. So assuming your lambda probe can be trusted, then either there is a variation in fuel from something external to the ecu (such as fuel pressure or a leaking injector) or there is something that is causing a variation in the amount of oxygen reaching the lambda probe - this could be many things from an exhaust leak or valve lash too tight or hydraulic lifter not bleeding down etc.

Ah yes, didn’t account for the fact a “tdc” event is two revolutions.

What car/ecu do you have? Im guessing from the username perhaps a supra plug-in?

Multiplier would normally be 1.0 for a tach (1 pulse per spark). Not sure why the tach would be bouncing, you could try adjusting the duty cycle a bit either way - normally 50% but you could see if 30 or 70 made it any better.

Aux 1-4 can do 4000Hz. 300Hz should be 3000RPM on a 6 cylinder if I have that right in my mind? You cant change number of teeth in 1 tooth/TDC mode but you could change the number of cylinders to something smaller.

You can connect a loop wire from an aux to trigger 1 pin. Set the trigger mode as below. Set the aux to test PWM and changing the frequency will give you different RPM.