Adamw

Hmm, good catch. It does actually work and display correct on a live ecu but they are going to have to fix that.

I will PM you some instructions for the ABS. Unfortunately with the 350Z ecu the expansion ports are inside the case and require hole/s to be drilled through the cover. #XSL is the Link part number for the expansion looms and your ecu can take two of them. What I/O they make available is listed in the manual. If you only want to add a couple of extras you can often just repurpose pins that are already there with no need for the XSL.

Yep it will be around there somewhere, you need to confirm accurately with a timing light though.

The 5v output should be dead stable between 4.99 and 5.01 at all times, you can view this on the runtimes screen, ecu status or misc tab from memory. Check that it is showing 5v while cranking.

Like I already said yesterday your 5v output is shorted so no 5v sensors will work correctly. MAP, temps and TPS will be wrong. The TPS go in opposite directions because 0V means fully open on one and fully closed on the other. Why do you think ignition isn’t working? How are you testing this? If you are looking at the aux outputs runtimes screen, then just like the V44 they will say “off” unless they are set up as an aux output function. Does your 5v remain ok if you crank with the throttle body unplugged?

Some of the M52 had the weird magneto-resistive/frequency cam sensor that is not compatible with aftermarket ECU's (im not sure which specific models but I know most that used the seimens ecu did), so you will likely need to change that but everything else should be fine as is. It is common to replace the cam sensor with the hall sensor from the M50 vanos engine.

How come you have got DI 1 set to LH inlet and Trigger 2 set to LH inlet? Normally on these the LH inlet sensor would be connected to trigger 2. Is there anything connected to DI1? Can you do a cam angle test on RH inlet and report the 3 cam angle numbers (test pulse count 3).

You have something wrong with your wiring. When you start cranking the 5V output gets overloaded/shorted to ground and the TP main input is seeing more than 5v at all times. Unplug the throttle body and see if the 5v out then returns to stable, if it does then it probably means you have the throttle pinout wrong.

Need a copy of the map and a log of it cranking: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A From your screenshots the TP hasnt been calibrated (TP main shows 0%, TP sub shows 77%) so the E-throttle limit is active. You also have errors saying analog inputs are above their error settings so you need to check your error settings.

Could you not use 2 axis on one throttle table to do both different antilag settings, to free up a table for the launch? For instance example below. Table 1 = normal touring. Table 2 = 2 different antilag bypass amounts. Table 3 = wheel speed based launch throttle reduction.

Can you not use one of the axes of the DBW target tables? why do you need 3 tables for antilag?

The crankshaft turns twice per 4 stroke engine cycle. So the missing teeth on the crankshaft wheel can only tell the ECU where TDC is, it cant tell the ecu whether it is TDC for cyl 1 or TDC cyl 4. Only a cam sensor can do that. So if the ECU doesn't know if it is TDC 1 or TDC 4 then it cant fire the correct coil or the correct injector in seq/direct modes. Injectors don't need to be re-wired - just change the setting to multipoint group. Coils will need to be rewired to the correct drives and ignition mode set to wasted spark. If you want sequential or direct spark you need a cam sensor.

Ok, your post didnt make that clear. Is the blue light on the ECU PCB on when ignition is on?

If you have no cam sensor you will need to use multitooth/missing trigger mode. Trigger 2 sync mode needs to be set to none. Coils will have to be wired in wasted spark pairs. Injection mode will need to be set to multipoint group and ignition mode set to wasted spark.

I dont think so. Assuming this engine has cyl 1,3,5,7 down one side and 2,4,6,8 down the other then your proposed pairs would end up with all of one side connected to even drives and all of the other side connected to odd drives. This would mean all 4 injectors on one side would switch on/off together and you will end up with large pressure pulsations in the rail. Something like this would be better: Inj1 = 1&3 Inj2 = 5&7 Inj3 = 2&4 Inj4 = 6&8

Your coil pairs are correct. The firing order doesn’t lend itself well to semi sequential so I would use multipoint group, wire 2 injectors on each side to an even numbered driver and two on each side to an odd driver.

An 04 ECU wont work in a 2007 car, the pinout is completely different.

G- is the trigger ground, this needs to be connected to one of the G4+ "Ground out" or "Shield/Gnd" pins.

Your symptoms seem to suggest a trigger issue but it is pretty difficult to diagnose with no logging etc. I think you are going to need to get someone involved that has an oscilloscope etc to do some diagnosis.

No, Link dont make a plug-in ECU for the GTO. I believe some of the Mk1 models use an ECU very similar to the Evo1-3 so it may be possible to use the Evo ECU with some small modifications but you would need to find a dealer that knows the differences well. I dont know for sure but you could try Brands Hatch Performance in the UK, I think I remember them doing one.

Use Aux 3 & 4 for the vanos solenoids as per below. Set both to Inlet L/H, 50Hz. The cam position sensor can go to DI 1-4. Also, I think the factory connectors on the vanos solenoids have diodes in them and they need to be removed, usually just chop off the connectors and use something common like a deustch DTM or similar.

If your is the USA S50 version then it should have the Bosch M3.3.1 which the Link plug-in is designed to replace. The Euro S50 uses a Seimens ECU with a completely different pinout. So start by confirming what your original ECU is.

The trigger is not happy in the logs, its no use doing a trigger calibration until that is sorted. Does your dizzy still have 24 teeth on the bottom and a single tooth on top? (some dizzys may have been modified for the G1) Drop your trigger 2 arming threshold down to a similar setting to your trigger 1.

Probably the only company that may have some stock subaru connectors in NZ would be NZEFI. For anti lag you would probably want to run a couple of spare wires up to the throttlebody to allow fitting a kicker later. Also, make provision for an EGT sensor.

so they are resistor plugs and leads?