Adamw

You can get a few different variations but the common ones are: Gold plated for 20awg wire 3-1447221-4. Sometimes the similar 1437284-9 (gold 18-20awg) is easier to get. Gold plated for 16-18awg wire 3-1447221-3

Yes, although the calibration is unknown so you will have to do some trial and error to work out the calibrations. The temp sensor will likely use the AC Delphi calibration. Pressure sensor will need to be wired to 5V, sensor ground and an analog input (pinout unknown but should be able to work it out from gauge wiring). Temp sensor will be wired to sensor gnd and a temp input (either way around).

Yep sounds like you got it. Here's a quick demo: https://1drv.ms/u/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPqylX67m5Oo57-JVv?e=t3SK3f

I will send you a private message with a file you can try.

Ok, all the CAN is done, I havent added any of the new channels to displays or whatever but they should now be available. I have kept all the channel names pretty much as per the BPM datasheet. The only one that is a bit ambiguous is Fuel level. He has used 2 bytes like it is expected to cover a large range of numbers but then says the range is only 0-53L. Just one byte can do up to 255 and 2 Bytes is capable of 65000. So I suspect he might be sending it as "0.1L" rather than whole Litres but that is not clear. If your fuel level says "500 Litres" when you have it all working then set the scalar to 0.1. Marvin-LinkG4UpdatedV2Port2CAN Adam.aemcd7

I can help you with the CAN set up if you first confirm what device you have. The document you attached is for a device from a company called BPM auto electronics. It is not a Motec device.

Your injector actual pulsewidth is only 1.2ms in that area, most injectors will be very non-linear with such a short PW. You cant expect an engine with 2500cc injectors on petrol to cruise lean like a stock car. You will likely need to increase the min effective PW setting to about 0.45ms and target a richer lambda during idle and cruise conditions (or lower fuel pressure) to prevent the injector operating in this region. Are they actually ID2000's or some other brand? Many other suppliers that sell the 2000CC CNG injector dont dynamically match them at multiple pulse widths like ID do so it could be even worse that shown below with some other brands. Notice the pink lines I have drawn on this graph. This shows the injector flows 40% less fuel at 1.12ms PW (15uL) than it does at 1.25ms (25uL) so it only takes a 0.1ms change in PW to turn all to custard.

Didnt you have a log attached earlier? There is no way firmware or PC link could cause what you are seeing. It looks like sensor 1 has failed. Sensor 2 is giving funny results but all the dianostics look ok and it seems to be showing some response to AFR. So on bank two I would be leaning more towards an air leak or a cylinder misfiring on bank 2? A quick test will be to swap sensors side to side and see what clues that gives.

The correct test pulse count to use for a cam angle test for the 2GR is 3. FYI, the help file explains the cam angle test process pretty well. G4+ ECU Tuning Functions > VVT Control > Tuning VVT Control > Cam Angle Test

What type of signal does the transmission output to request torque reduction?

If you have changed to modelled mode then you will really have to start from scratch with the warmup and cranking enrichments, at least the warmup will be very different. Usually if the charge temp approximation is reasonably close your warmup enrichment table will be mostly zeros. Crank enrichment probably wont need to change much from the base settings..

Anything above 150Hz means contaminated fuel. Most likely water but could also be diesel or similar. You will have to drain the tank

Sorry, I dont understand what you mean. Do you mean it loses the change after you turn off the ignition? Did you do a store after making the adjustment (press F4)?

I have never tuned an early evo, but the timing you are quoting is pretty normal for the later 4G63's. Evo 5 & 6 which were around 9:1CR can only take about 8deg at 1bar around peak torque, and will be well into the negatives by 1.5bar.

The only way to find the correct trigger offset is with a timing light.

Im not sure if you were intending to attach something but there is nothing attached to your post. Can you attach a log and the .pclr file. Here is a video showing how to record a log and save the map: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

It sounds like the ethanol sensor digital input is outside of its operating range and has switched over to the fault/error value. The fault setting is user adjustable but most commonly it is set to zero% so that it if it fails it runs like crap and you know there is a problem. The normal operating range of a flex fuel sensor output is between 50 and 150Hz, the ECU will consider it in error if the frequency goes below 40Hz or above 160Hz. So to get yourself running again you can temporarily set the fault setting to say 85% (or whatever you believe the E% in the tank is at). I would only drive it easy like this though and set it back to zero once fixed. Here's where you find that setting: Now, to check what is causing the problem, with the engine running you can go to the runtimes screen (F12), digital tab, and find the DI that is set to ethanol sensor (in my example below it is DI5), then look at the DI frequency reported on the lefthand side (mine is showing 120.1Hz). If it is showing 0.0% then there is a wiring problem - a loose connection or no power at the sensor or similar. If it is showing a frequency but it is below 50Hz or above 150Hz then it is a fuel contamination problem - most likely water or diesel in the fuel.

It sounds like you are talking about the mixture map function? Back in the day when Link were selling the G4 ECU, the G4 was sold as the lower cost, more basic ecu, at the same time they offered the Vipec V series which was the higher spec ecu with some hardware differences, more advanced firmware features and more advanced software features. The mixture map function was available in the Vipec software but not the Link software. You can use 3rd party software such as megalogviewerHD to do this. Here is a video showing how it is done: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CG_kY3K_2AE

Im pretty sure the FD base map is from Link's FD test car that they have had for many years, so most of it should be pretty close. You generally cant tune cold start well until the main fuel table is tuned as much of it is influenced by the main table. You should really only need to adjust the master fuel to get it somewhere close.

Is yours the newer one with the 3 wire pressure sensor or the older 2 wire one?

As far as I can see, Torque is already in the TT stream, with a couple of variations of it transmitted on ID 0x280 (actual torque & torque target), 0x288 (available torque & actual torque), 0x488 (torque target & actual torque). Steering angle and rate would not normally come from the engine ecu. Are these steering sensors connected to the ecu? If you have any concrete info on what is missing and where I can pass it on to Link, no guarantees if they can do it or how soon they could add it though

Can you clarify what you mean - do you mean does it mechanically fit? or are you asking if it will work with the VR crank trigger?

Yes, add a new page to your layout, add a time plot and fuel table 1 to that page. If you have your map and log open at the same time the pink cross hairs will show you where the engine was operating in the fuel table at that particular instant as you drag the cursor along the time plot. If you drag it so that the crosshairs are relatively well centered on a cell , then you can click on that cell (to select it), then hit the "M" key on your keyboard. This will open up the quick trim function, you just type in what the measured afr was at that point and hit ok, it will automatically adjust that cell in the fuel table. Example below, if I clicked ok it would adjust the 2000RPM/-30Kpa cell to bring the AFR down from 15.2 to 14.7.

Actually you are right, it seems they have removed the CAN transmit functionality, Im sure it used to... Anyhow, it will still work no worries, the ecu will read the CAN data direct from the expansion module, it doesnt need the dash.

Ok, hopefully it is just a timing light issue then, triggering off the primary side like you have often doesnt work well. Report back once you have tried triggering from a plug lead.