Adamw

Yes.

I would say the pole piece in our sensor is about 4mm dia. The pole is magnetic so you can feel its approximate location/size by dragging something like a paperclip across the end. I reckon a 7.2mm tooth will be ok though. The scope will show if there is a problem as the zero-crossing will get flat patch in it when the tooth is too long.

I have a vague recollection there is already a MAP sensor on the firewall on these, toyota call it a boost pressure or turbo pressure sensor. Plug the ECU in and check if there is any voltage showing on AN Volt 3 or 4. As a general comment the air temp sensor would usually work better in the pipework somewhere close to the throttle body rather than in the actual manifold as the pipework is generally lighter construction with less thermal mass. However if you dont want to modify pipework and there is some plug and play adapter then it may be a good option. Really any "open element" type air temp sensor is fine.

This post is about the VVT ofsett - basically all you are doing is making the ecu report the cam position as "zero" when it is resting at home. There is no "stock offset" as there are so many stacked tolerances on every mechanical part that every engine will be different. Most stock ecu's do a position-learn procedure during cranking when it is started the first time after a battery disconnect.

I've checked again the ECU is outputting the correct data. Turbo speed is not in the stream because you only asked for ANV 2 to be added originally. I will add turbo speed when I can. Your RS3 is old so I suspect your dash firmware probably is also. The current version of RS3 is 3.64. The current 1.2 strada firmware version is 2.40.77. You can click on the cloud icon at the top right of RS3 to update them both. Try updating first, if that doesnt help then I will change around the CAN setup as sometimes that will get around a bug. The mxs update procedure is pretty similar to this video: https://youtu.be/vfOSDcVF-js?feature=shared

For the trigger scope capture you need to go to >ECU controls>Trigger Scope, then hit the capture button, once the screen has a waveform showing on the screen then click save. Do one at idle and one with a free rev to about 5000.

@jdniss, that doesnt cause any issues on any PC I have tried. Can you provide the dxdiag for the PC's that you can reproduce the error on.

No, do a log first to see what the duty cycle is doing so you have some data to base any decisions to adjust on and also so you have some "before" data to compare to after making the change.

Not really, the master fuel is a multiplier so will affect the size of the final numbers in the fuel table, the max value that the fuel table can take is 150, so if you for example had the master set too small you might start tuning at low rpm/load, and have values of say 100 in the fuel table, then when you get to higher loads you find your fuel table number is maxed out so you cant add any more fuel. Conversely, if your master was set too big, then you could have very small numbers in the fuel table, which would affect the resolution of adjustment you have. If the values in the middle of the fuel table are around say 30-90, then the master is fine.

Oil pressure, fuel pressure and IAT are all definitely not working in that log. So the fault codes are correct. AN Volt 5 & 6 are reading 0V and AN T4 is at 5V for the whole log, since these inputs are all on the same expansion connector and share a common ground wire, I would say it is most likely this ground wire that is disconnected/broken somewhere between ecu and sensors. Since it has been spliced that is where I would look for issues first. The misfire/cut is because the fuel press sensor error value is giving a fixed fuel pressure, this causes the calculated differential fuel pressure to drop as boost increases and this is causing your "fuel pressure safety" on GP Limit 1 to kick in.

No I wouldnt think MAP for load would be any concern in this case. More likely just a lack of air or fuel. Check the base timing again with the engine running. Adjust master fuel or fuel table values around the idle area so that the lambda is around 0.9 (too rich is usually much less fussy than too lean). I have enabled idle ignition in your map attached below which will help. Assuming you dont have an idle valve, you will also need to adjust the throttle stop when warm so that it idles near target idle speed with the idle ign bouncing around its target. 4age base map new + idle ign.pclx

No, it should be the opposite, increasing the master increases the injector PW. Set it to 5 to see if it improves the stumble or response issue, we dont care if the idle AFR is richer as that is not where your issue is. The master fuel setting is the overall fuel scaler. The Fuel flow table is irrelevant, this is only used for fuel consumption calculation. Adjust the master fuel until the engine runs then tune the individual cells in the fuel table to achieve the target AFR under all operating conditions.

It is actually trigger 1 signal that is sometimes not reaching its threshold. Its already set to the lowest possible value so not much more you can do from an ecu point of view. Most likely you will be able to solve it by reducing the trigger 1 sensor air gap, Im pretty sure most of the 4AGE distributors have an adjustable pickup in them. Set it to 0.2mm with a feeler gauge.

I see in the log file the lambda goes quite lean at around 2500RPM, but it is hard to tell if it is going lean because there is a misfire, or if the lean mixture is the cause of the misfire. You will have to try richening it up in that area to see if it improves or not. I have made some idle adjustment to your map and set the fuel pump speed control to switch to medium speed earlier in case that is the cause of the lean condition. Idle likely still wont be great but hopefully getting closer. Subaru EJ2.7a.pclx

You have a trigger issue. The RPM will drop to zero whenever the ecu has lost position. Your trigger scope hasnt captured the problem as it looks like you clicked capture before crank so it just shows a stationary engine. Since your RPM drops to zero about once every distributor revolution, my guess is the ecu is not seeing trigger 2. Try dropping your trig 2 arming thresholds to match the pic below, if that doesnt result in more signs of life then do us a new trigger scope, making sure you only click capture when the engine is cranking.

You can calculate the calibration number using the formula in the help file if you know the number of teeth on the ABS rings, otherwise just start at 1000 and compare what PC Link shows compared to GPS on your phone when driving and adjust until they match. The sensors likely wont work below about 20kmh.

You are really going to need the lambda working to be able to tune it, but my guess would be you dont have enough fuel, try increasing or decreasing master fuel to see if it improves in either direction.

According to the log the engine looks like it should have all the basics it needs to run. I notice your wideband turns off when cranking and turns back on when you stop cranking. Have you confirmed injectors and coils still have power when cranking? Going back to basics, if you have compression, fuel and spark at the right time then you should at least have some signs of life, so one of those is missing. Fuel you can confirm by adding a squirt of starter fluid, visual confirmation of spark is not always an accurate indication of what is happening inside the cylinder but is usually a good start. A "spark tester" that you connect between the coil and spark plug is good for confirming there is spark with the sparkplug under compression.

Would need to see a log to see what the solenoid duty cycle is doing but most likely it is PID related. Quite often on the subarus you will need quite different base duty cycle on each side and sometimes different PID.

Yeah this is effectively just a dumb screen, it doesnt have any brain in it, all the processing needs to be done by the PDM, it cant be used without an Aim PDM. These displays are only GBP$335 brand new so this one is also very over priced. The standalone Aim dashes have at least 3 connectors on the back with ~40pins total. Realdash on a tablet would probably be the lowest cost option but will be quite a learning curve making it do what you want and you need to consider how you want to power it up etc. Probably the most common low cost display at present is the powertune digital which would work out a similar price or less than what that Aim is listed for. They are quite flexible and work well, the main negatives compared to a more commercial product would probably be the 3D printed case and a little slow to boot up. https://www.powertunedigital.com/collections/all-products-2

Yeah there is still something odd going on with the scope capture but there are no signs of a trigger issue in the log from a couple of days ago so I dont have any real concerns about the trigger at this stage. One thing I would try though is to temporarily set the trigger mode to Subaru V1-6, then change it back to the current settings, this will re-initialise all trigger set-up in the firmware. In this case however I think it is more something messed up in PC link rather than the ecu. Rather than chase a phantom trigger scope issue, can you describe the misfire issue in more detail, under what conditions does it occur and what happens? Can you see it in a log?

Not really any setup required, assign the desired wheel speed to the DI you are wired to, enter a non-zero calibration value. If you still have functioning ABS, then you would be better to connect to the signal wires that go to the traction ecu as these are a square wave, will work down to low speeds and wont upset the ABS.

We dont currently have a good option in the software to control a DC servo motor like this. It is planned but may be some time off yet. There are small DIY type motor driver boards that you could use to control it with a single aux if needed

Sweet, good work. It looks like you are going to have to replace the crank wheel now.

I dont see anything obvious now. I would try a spray of starter fluid to quickly rule out fuel related possibilities. I notice you have an ignitor on the firewall - what is the ignition coil off? Does it have 4 pins?