Adamw

There is a V7 base map in PC Link too.

With engine on and off.

The "Knock" condition is monitoring "Knock Level Global". However, I just done a brief test of this and I think the "knock level global" parameter is not working correctly. I thought it was meant to be either the sum or average of the individual cylinder knock levels but the number im getting seems like it may not have the individual cyl gains applied to it or something. I have reported this to engineering to take a look at. In the meantime you can try logging "Knock level global" see what sort of numbers it gives you under normal conditions, then adjust the virtual aux condition to match.

I would not recommend the rotary cut mode as it will do funny stuff on 4 stroke otto. With a rotary engine there are 3 combustion chambers per rotor. So fuel is injected into one chamber then the engine does two full revolutions before that chamber is ready for spark. So the rotary cut mode takes this into account in how it limits, it has to cut fuel 2 cycles before it cuts ignition then when the cut is finished it injects fuel into a combustion chamber for 2 cycles before ignition is re-enabled.

Note the Monsoon cant do DBW. For a map you can just load in one of our WRX basemaps that are already supplied in PC Link.

Just the +14V (pin A5), and one of the main grounds (A34 or A25)

Just pull the 5V wire out of the ECU connector (leaving all other wires connected) and see if the 5V out parameter returns to normal, if it does that suggests there is a short somewhere. The pins can be extracted quite easily: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1MnJlNTBhX_ccv40PbVgIi9XTy4HbXEfJ

If you open up the runtimes screen (F12) and navigate to the CAN tab, are you seeing CAN Dig 1 change state when you press the snow button:

I have seen many times MR2 owners have connection issues when they use an extension cable to get into the cabin. Can you do some more thorough testing without it, as in every case I've been involved with before, the extension cable was the problem.

I done a few quick tests and it does seem to be doable. You would set E-throttle 1 to off. TP main would be your real cable throttle TPS. APS sub and main and Ethrottle relay 2 would have to be assigned in the software even if you werent going to connect them. It may have to stay in set-up mode to keep the safeties happy. E-throttle 2 would use TP2 sub and main, and you could assign whatever parameters you like to the axes of the E-throttle 2 target table. I dont see any advantage over a more conventional boost control setup however (apart from flow capacity), E-throttles are slow to move compared to a solenoid.

Do you have resistor spark plugs? Are you just using the supplied USB cable, no extension or anything? Anything connected to one of the CAN ports?

I think you are doing the triggerscope wrong as none of them show any data. You have to click the capture button when the engine is cranking and keep it cranking for about 5 seconds.

Agree with JMP here, do it properly. TPS calibration takes 5 seconds.

Doesn’t it have a throttle stop screw?

Ok, any digital input. You can use DI5 on pin 81 or DI4 on pin 57, these were originally only used for automatic transmission cars. Your switch can be to ground or to +12V, doesnt matter.

Sorry, I dont understand your question?

Probably the easiest option is 2 separate relays, or a single DPDT relay.

2.9psi (20Kpa) MAP would have to be a lift-off, coasting/over-run condition wouldnt it? I dont think you would be able to pull that level of vacuum while driving. You do not need to worry about AFR under high vacuum over-run conditions as there is not enough air in the cylinder for proper combustion.

Yes, you can use either pin 41 or 13, you may also need to connect the wideband ground to the ecu depending on whether your wideband has a separate analog ground. Yes you will need to set either AN Volt 3 or 6 to function "Lambda 1" and assign correct calibration. If you are using our E36 plug-in ECU then the vanos should already be set up on Aux 3.

Give us a log of it cranking and also a copy of the tune file. Have you checked base timing? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A Looking at your tune file that you attached a couple of posts up, your fuel table is not suitable for modeled mode. I suggest you import the fuel table I have attached below. To do this, right click on your existing fuel table, then go to Import/export>import from file. VE Fuel table.lte

No you have it wrong. Pin A5 is the main power supply to the ECU, this should be live any time the ignition switch is on. Pin B5 is the power supply for the E-throttle Aux9/10, this should be controlled by the E-throttle relay, see the diagram 4 posts up.

Lets go 1 step deeper to see if we can diagnose why Pin 16 is not grounding. Pin 16 is controlled by the "ignition switch signal" on pin 45. Can you check the voltage on pin 45 during cranking, it should be near battery voltage. I dont know off the top of my head what the minimum voltage we need to see on this pin is but if pin 16 is not engaging I suspect you might have quite low voltage here. Note pin 45 comes from the ignition switch but the same source also supplies power to the fuel pump, FPC module and 2 air valves so if voltage is low on this wire you really want to fix it rather than work around it.

Probably a log and map will help us see what the cause is. This video is for the G4+ but you will find most menus similar on the G4: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A P.S. I deleted your other thread in the tuning section that was exactly the same. It becomes difficult to keep track if you have discussion split over two posts.

A couple of possibilities. As Ducie54 says, if you are using flex fuel (multifuel mode) we only let you use Lambda, this is because AFR is not going to make much sense to anyone when the fuel stoichiometric ratio is variable. Another common thing I see is where a user chooses the wrong parameter for their gauge or display. If for instance you use parameter "AN Volt 4 - Lambda 1", instead of just "Lambda 1", the unit conversion wont work.

I wouldnt be too concerned about a 0.5 volt drop over the main supply, Im pretty sure in those cars the fuel pump, boost valve, idle valve etc all feeds from that same relay supply so that is probably quite normal.