Adamw

Yeah if it used to be autronic then it would already have a single slot sync. So your settings posted in your original post would be correct (except change tooth count to 12). You will need to set the base timing with a timing light.

Not really sure how it would affect PC Comms, but can you confirm that you have the spark edge set to rising.

I would not be adjusting FP speed so much that effects fuel pressure, you really want to aim to keep differential fuel pressure constant under all conditions for the fuel equation to work properly. For your PWM table I would just do 2D, with inj duty cycle as the axis. In most typical setups required fuel pump flow is directly proportional to inj DC, there is no need for any other variable to be considered.

Unfortunately that won’t work. You will need just a single tooth on the cam. An easy option is using “aluminum foil tape” to cover up the unneeded slots.

I would stick with open loop. In closed loop with a regulator in the mix also I think you possibly could end up with some odd interaction going on under certain conditions. Unfortunately not at present. It is a common request and I have been pushing hard to get this added though so hopefully you will be able to one day...

Although you can actually filter RPM, it wouldnt normally be recommended. I dont see why you wouldnt actually want the fuel table to be using the correct cell for the RPM it is operating at? There is linear interpolation between cells so assuming both cells are tuned correctly and there isnt a large change in VE at that specific point then it shouldnt make any difference "bouncing between cells". If you really dont want it moving between two cells then my suggestion would be to change your table axis breakpoints so they are wider and the boundary isnt centred right on the lumpy area.

My logic would say there are 2 possibilities: Maybe the TP Sensor is damaged and gives a different resistance when there is engine vibration present. You have some wiring issue where there is something messing with the ECU 5V or ground reference when the engine is running. I think you would see it in the runtimes if the 5V was effected, so maybe more likely the ground.

Something like this will do it. Note "0%" in the boost table ratio table means you are using boost table 1, "100%" means you are using all of table 2, 50% would be a blend halfway between table 1 & 2.

Sensor ground would be preferable. Yes, unregulated battery voltage (14v) is normally used for powering those sensors.

So it seems you need to fix your wiring. The sensors will not work until they have a ground

Pin 46 should definitely be acceptable as a sensor ground. It is more common to power those sensors from 12V as 5V could be a bit marginal but lets check a few other things first... Have you checked there is continuity from pin 46 at the ecu to the blue wire at the hall sensor? Can you post up your map so we can check settings.

Ok, the setup like the "option 1" you originally asked for (with just timer and clutch switch) didnt work out too well as when testing the "arming time" and the timer kind of contradicted each other and you could potentially get a situation where the launch would re activate something like 1 second after each gear change etc. I could make it work but its going to need 3 virtual auxes and two timers so its going to be pretty hard for anyone to understand or adjust. If you are happy to fit the non-driven wheel speed then you will have a much better strategy and it will be easier to understand what to adjust. I would not connect your clutch switch as we dont want it to disable when you let the clutch go, perhaps just connect the dash switch so you can disarm it if it is ever too intrusive, otherwise just leave it active all the time. Here is an example setup.

With quick tune the amount of time in each cell and the center tolerance is configurable, so you could effectively make it instant to do what you are asking for. However, I dont think this is a good idea and will just quickly make a mess of your map. The idea of the mixture map feature is you post process the log file using filters to remove transients, gear changes and most other conditions where Lambda measurement is not accurate or representative - so you are only adjusting your fuel table using "good" data. You cant really do that "live" as you dont know what data to filter/ignore until after the event has happened.

Just looking at this now. Do you have any speed sensor at all connected (even driven wheel/gearbox speed)? I could do something a bit more effective if you do.

exactly.

Does it even matter what it is for? If you are removing the ecu just chop the wire and leave it there.

Yes. The alignment or phasing of the cam edges in relation to crank does not need to be exact but you do want it to be in a similar position to the picture above. We have quite a big tolerance which you zero out with the "offset" number. I would aim to have the cam edges occur roughly about 10-14 teeth after the big gaps on the crank.

Yes, Evo 10 has Mivec on both cams. This is the pattern you want to duplicate: And then settings would be something like this:

That would be the same as driving with the quicktune function enabled all the time wouldnt it?

The timer setup will likely work better than your present setup without any extra hardware needed. So if you want to give that a go I can help you set up the timer if you cant work it out yourself. For tarmac standing starts, option 2 is by far the best and is what most professional circuit cars would use as a start line strategy. Usually you set it up to initially spin enough to prevent it bogging then quickly pull RPM down to allow the tyres to "catch up" before slowly ramping it back in. Usually you dont even need an enable switch - it will just be active anytime speed drops below say 50km/h. Wheel Slip based control strategies typically arent good options for standing starts. You actually need more slip than you would imagine for a good launch. For a wheel speed sensor I would suggest 4-12teeth and use a hall effect sensor (so it works down to near 0KM/h). Almost any will work. The GS1005, GS1007 or GS1012 from ZF would be my suggestions.

The multiplier can be anything from 0.01 to 10.00 in 0.01 increments. If your tacho is overshooting, then try something a little less than 1, say 0.95

If your blitz meter reads correct then surely that confirms the ECU is outputting a correct frequency? Are you sure the settings make no difference? If you use a smaller multiplier the needle should sweep to a smaller number?

No. Provided the tacho multiplier and duty cycle settings are set the same in both the V88 and G4+ then they will output identical tacho signals.

All will have a BIOS or the modern equivalent UEFI, the problem is you wont know if that BIOS has the needed "power failure" option in it until you actually had a tablet you can boot up and play with. There are special adapters for some name brand tablets that allow charge/data at the same time, but just any old "USB hub" wont work. One example: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2014-new-Tablet-pc-usb-otg-charge-hub-for-thinkpad-8-X98-VivoTab-note8-M80ta-WT/2040501550.html The problem is that USB was originally only designed to provide 0.5A current, most modern tablets however need more than this. So they use one of the USB "fast charge" standards that provide say 1 or 2A. For these chargers to work though the tablet needs to send some sort of "handshake" to the charger to tell it that it is capable of taking 2A. So no USB data can be sent through the same port as the power is supplied because the datalines are needed for the "handshake" signal.

It would be possible but the only real option for the shift initiation signal on that car would be the clutch switch. I would say that is unlikely to work well on a road driven H pattern synchromesh gearbox.