Adamw

This is odd, most of your settings visable look correct. When I duplicate your settings on bench it works ok for me. Are you on latest firmware 5.6.5.3389? Can you attach your tune file or send to

Can you do a triggerscope at idle and attach here. You master fuel is very low, what size injectors and what fuel? It appears you havent adjusted the trigger offset from our base map, have you confirmed base timing is correct? I dont know the H22a ignition system well, google seems to show the coil is inside the distributor and it has a separate external ignitor - can you confirm?

Unfortunately, that document doesnt really give enough info, but my hunch is it should be ok. The main unknown is if the switch action is momentary or latching, on their website the switches appear to spring return to the central position so that would suggest they are momentary type. For the G4+ cruise control you need momentary switches/buttons. Connect the red/brn/yel/grn wires to any 4 spare digital inputs. The pink wire (for the engaged light) appears to need a high side drive, so connect to any aux output 5-8 but be aware it wont work at present since the G4+ "cruise light" function is currently broken (will be fixed in a future firmware update).

Ok, it seems your error code 22 is just a historic one and the MAP appears to be working in the log. Go to the event log and click "clear ECU fault codes", then do a store should get rid of that. I dont see anything obviously wrong in your map/log. It seems to be seeing the trigger ok during cranking and there is dwell and PW displayed. There are some trigger errors registering but they could well have been caused by a kick back or uneven cranking speed so Im not too worried about those yet. Battery voltage drops to 8.5-9V when cranking so that either needs a charge or the wiring improved. Rotaries are quite prone to fouling the plugs if the tune is not good so it is possibly worth trying a couple of new leading plugs.

Hi Guys, Since Jean's initial query about supporting this VVT system (when I told him it was unlikely we would develop it for a 1 off request) we have now had quite a few requests for it so it is definitely moving up the priority list. No guarantees when it will happen as we have a massive backlog of firmware work to do first but we do plan on supporting it.

ANVolt 5 on the Monsoon is the built-in MAP sensor so that seems odd. Can you please do a short log (just of engine cranking for say 10 seconds will do). Attach log and a copy of your map here. Here's a quick guide how to do the log; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

Intake cam is correct, exhaust cam is not needed and will not work.

It sounds like you might not be loading the map correctly... Here is a quick video to show you how to do it: https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPmhJrDuceOJrh1Hkx

Was that using the map that I attached above? Below is the ignition table I put in so you should see a peak of about 28deg. I cant think of anyone up whangarei way for tuning sorry.

Your map still shows a trigger offset of zero so it appears you havent set the base timing. You need to set base timing in the triggers>calibrate>set base timing screen. With engine idling, and timing light on, adjust the "offset" number up or down until your timing light/timing marks show the same value as whatever you have in the "lock timing to" box. Note you have to hit the enter key when you adjust the offset (it should turn blue if done right). Also, attached below is your map that I have tweaked a couple of things. I removed manifold pressure reference from the ignition table to just make it 2D and put a more suitable advance curve in there. Also a few other small changes such as dwell table. Load this in before you do base timing. nudge2.pclr

I thought I would clarify this comment, All G4+ Link ECU auxiliary outputs have built-in flyback protection. Only if you want to drive an idle valve using an ignition or injector output you will need an external diode. I agree that it would be nicer to convert to 3 channel ignitors, but Link will also control the stock ones perfectly fine if he wants to keep them. For "smart" ignitors like this you just switch dwell mode to "duty cycle" in PC Link.

The engine will need to be operating in the specific i-trim cell, with no knock detected for the set delay period, before that specific cell (only that cell) will start to get re-advanced. There is also the "clear I-trim table" setting that will remove all retard trims at every power-up.

One wire seems a bit odd, it may be like the old toyota reed switch type? Try something like this:

Try something like this. Im making lots of assumptions so if it doesnt work, please post a short log.

Also, just to confirm your comment "my fuel pump is activated by the ecu", I hope that doesnt mean the fuel pump is directly connected to the ECU? - the ecu is only switching the fuel pump relay right?

You can often get some reasonable idle control using the idle ignition table alone. Cold start will never be great without an IAC. Set it up with less timing than you would normally run in the zero error cell (try about 5deg) then ramp it steeply either side. Throttle stop will need to be adjusted so it idles close to the zero error cell under normal conditions. I’m not at a pc now but will post an example and a bit more info tomorrow

So you are saying the cam timing is out? You can only confirm that with a degree wheel and DTI... it is unlikely enough to upset the ECU triggering but the engine may not perform to full potential.

A trigger error will usually only be registered if the tooth count between sync pulses did not match what the ECU has been set to expect. In some cases you can have significant trigger error even without a trigger error being registered/logged so there are other clues that you need to look at to diagnose. RPM ROC scatter and Dwell scatter are often good indicators. If you have a problem, please give more detail.

What I can add is if you lock timing on an Evo and when watching with a good stable timing light (I use a ferret), give the throttle a hard stab you can easily see the drift. It doesnt look as big as the numbers above but you can easily see it - maybe 4 or 5 degrees at a guess (this is after ign delay is adjusted properly). When you do the same test with say a 2JZ VVT with 36-2 you cant detect any movement by eye.

All you need to do is choose "Honda S2000" in the trigger setup screen.

Hi Alex, Sorry for the slow reply, I have just returned from holiday and am starting to catch up. Can you email me your files and a little description? I will take a look when I have a quiet patch.

Sorry for the slow reply. It was not the AFR target table I was talking about, it was the AFR target Overlay table. It is a fairly effective warning device when connected to a typical mild road car engine but I think for tuning a audio based device is a much better prospect. The human ear is very good at seperating real knock from background noise. If the budget can stretch a little further my suggestion would be to consider the Knockblock instead.

You must be testing wrong. It will output +12V when turned off, it will output 0V with aux set on test mode.

I have been in contact with this user via Tech Support email earlier today and am waiting for him to come back with the results of some of my checks. Probably no need for input from the forum community on this one just yet.

There are quite a few of these out there running. In the help file are settings for the 2NZ-FE, the 1NZ seems to share all the same basic settings.