Adamw

The low side drive auxilary outputs output both 12V and Gnd. They have a weak pullup to 12V. So when Aux is off it will put out 12V, when Aux is on it will put out GND. Maybe your speedo needs a stronger pullup? You could try something like a 1Kohm resistor connected from the aux output to a +12V source.

Correct, no need for that anymore.

Yes, you will need to install the latest PCLink on your PC and update the ECU to the latest Link G4+ firmware. The Vipec software/firmware wont work.

Can you elaborate a little... What do you mean by "no speedo signal"? There is no wheel speed displayed in PCLink? or there is no speed displayed on the dashboard?

I wouldnt expect the Black wire is particularly critical, just choose somewhere that is clean and capable of carrying the required 5amps or so. Body should be ok provided it is direct to the body and not just screwed to some unknown panel under the dash etc.

In your post above you have two trigger scopes from a link ecu. One shows a 36-1 wheel so I dont think that came from your bike. The other one that shows the 12-1 pattern it shows trigger 1 has been wired with the wrong polarity. Even though your cool old school "tv screen" shows it opposite I would believe the link trigger scope. Can you post another triggerscope once you have changed the trigger settings as per Simon's post - I suspect you are going to have to swap wires on the crank sensor too.

The VVT is the same as the 1JZ. Here is the basic settings:

AEM white wire to Link Volt 6. AEM brown to Link Gnd. AEM red and black to a decent power supply that is live at key on like the fuse box or fuel pump relay etc.

I have asked one of the guys in engineering to take a look at the XR6 test mule we have to see if he can work it out without pulling the car apart. No reply yet...

If the gauge doesnt have a seperate analog ground and is grounded via a high power ground at some other location in the car then I would disagree with your statement and say the exact opposite. It is highly likely a grounding issue... You can try grounding it to the engine block which is often closer to sensor ground or you can try as Steve mentions above and "fudge the cal". It is common practice and often needed with controllers that dont have a proper analog ground. The problem you will often find though is you might get it working nice for a few minutes until a fan or headlights etc turn on then you suddenly find a different offset...

The smaller the control range number that you use the more your effect becomes like a "hard cut". No one can tell you what you need to make it "sound like a PFC" - you will need to experiment with these settings yourself until you find something that works.

Spark edge is falling in 99.9% of todays ignitors/coils. The exception is some old MSD boxes, some 1990's honda's and the old Ford TFI system.

To save me typing the same thing twice, this post here probably applies to you also: http://forums.linkecu.com/index.php?/topic/1792-evo-8-v44-plugin-no-knock-or-speed-input/&do=findComment&comment=49902

Turn off decel fuel cut for now. For idle speed control you need to fully tune it in open loop mode so that the base position table is close to correct before switching over to closed loop mode. Do this first: Then do this:

Your End cut needs to be a bigger number than the start cut. Try 100% end cut. Try start cut (TP low) about 50 and start cut (TP 100) about 60. Also try a smaller control range. You will possibly need to use a 4d fuel table to add more fuel also.

Auto mode should be enabled on the plugins as far as I know. Can you please attach your map here or email it to and we will take a look.

Go to a image host website like this for example: https://postimages.org/ Upload your photo. It will then take you to a page that gives you different types of links that you can copy. Copy the "hotlinks for forums" link and paste that link into your forum message here. Then when you submit your message the image will become live.

I had a quick look over your files. There are a few things that dont look quite right... Charge temp table is set at 100% all over. This will mean the ECU thinks air is much hotter than it really is (less dense) and remove fuel. I suspect a rotary doesnt have as much coolant temp effect as your typical "water heated" piston engine manifold and cylinder head so you will probably find you need significantly smaller numbers than typical. Try something like this as a starting point: Sec/Primary ratio looks wrong assuming you have 2 primary and 2 secondary - it should be about 1.655Staging table numbers are too big, I would expect biggest number to be about 62.3% for equal PW on both injectors.With Modelled mode the injector data, MAP and fuel pressure metrics are important, I would trust the ID data to be pretty good if thats what you have used for your injector setup. However if you can it would be a good idea to verify the FP and MAP sensors against some known good reference like a miteevac or similar. I'm a little suspicious of your MAP under some conditions.

Another thing I just thought of is right now there is not a good way to log these inputs within PCLink. They would have to be set up as 0-5V GP inputs and would only be logged as a raw voltage rather than in meaningful units.

What ecu do you have and do you know the PCB revision? Vertical acceleration is probably not too useful for most users so you could possibly do away with that if you didnt have enough IO.

Please post a log and your map: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

The white is the ground, the black is the signal. The bare wire is called the drain and you normally just cut that off. I dont know which is ground and signal on your sensor however. I will see if anyone else at Link knows tomorrow.

I dont see anything too major that will stop it from running in your map. There are a few oversights that I have corrected in the attached a map but no show stoppers; Precrank prime was set to "Start pos", yet you dont have a start DI, so I changed that to "key on". LS2 coils dont like too much dwell so I have reduced all values in the table that were above 5ms. You had both charge temp table and IAT correction table turned on - usually you use one or the other. I have turned the charge temp table off for now since its more difficult to get right. I would try again and see if you can keep it running for longer by adjusting the master fuel number up or down. Your Ignition table load axis is set to MAP. You can not go below 0 absolute pressure. precrnk_Dwell_charge temp_fixed.pclr If you still cant get it right we will need to see a log: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

Either will probably work fine. The standard cars are supplied with battery voltage.

The X-series uses a different calibration. Yours looks linear to me according to the datasheet on the AEM website. Use one of the linear cal tables, set 0V = 0.683Lam, 5V = 1.365Lam.