Adamw

IG. Connect to any ignition switched +12V source. Note it doesnt need 10A like the fuse suggests, more like 0.2A. L. Since your dash can do a warning light based on voltage, I would just connect this to the same source as IG, with a 500ohm 1W resistor inline instead of a lamp. RLO. Connect to ecu aux output. M. Not connected. For the ecu set-up, this is not what we call alternator control, this alternator still does all the control internally, the ecu just needs to "tell it" what voltage it wants using PWM DC. I would try a GP PWM set up like below. Adjust the GP PWM 1 DC value up or down until you get the voltage you want.

I believe earlier this year we found some 24V versions had been mistakenly supplied as our normal 12V ones. The symptoms you describe would fit well with the possibility of an incorrect or faulty solenoid, and I cant think of much other logic that would cause it to click in test mode but not in PWM mode. So I think you should contact tech@linkecu to discuss.

Yeah I would say the guy in the video has no idea what he is talking about, the "strip" he is showing inside is just the PCB that has all the processing electronics on it, the actual hall effect element (and sometimes the separate magnet that goes behind it) is a flat disc type component, mounted 90degs to the PCB and fitted right in the end face of the body. There are in fact some hall effect sensors where orientation is important but these will always have a flat or groove machined down the side to show the orientation. The common red GS100502 certainly doesnt have a directional preference. FYI, this is what the commonly used gear tooth sensor elements look like, 8mm dia, 4mm thick as this one has the magnet built in. Certainly not a "strip". I do agree it is worth trying different air gaps though, with these sharp teeth it will be more sensitive to air gap than a more typical tooth shape. The thread pitch is 1mm so try it say half turn increments each way.

Which alternator do you actually have? You show two different types here. The document linked in the V88 forum post shows an alternator with an RLO terminal and no S terminal, so this is an ECU-controlled regulator. However the PDF document that you attached shows an alternator that has a M terminal (load monitor) and an S terminal (Sense), this is not an ecu controlled alternator, the M terminal just reports electrical load to the ecu.

Those triangle "holes" at the bottom of the trig 1 waveform occur every 180 deg and peak right about where TDC would be for each cyl. My first thought was you have a wiring issue causing starter motor current to pass through the ecu ground or similar. But then I noticed the same effect is present in your "2K RPM" scope so I think that rules out the starter motor. The only other item I can think off that would pull current around every TDC would be the ignition coils. So I would start by inspecting carefully where the coils are grounded, where the crank sensor is grounded, confirm both have very low resistance from their plugs back to the main star ground point. Actually, a quick test you could do is unplug the coils and do another cranking scope to see if those triangle holes have disappeared. A further thought - I would confirm the wheel is actually running true too, especially axially. You probably dont need to go as far as physically measuring it, just get someone to crank it over while you watch it to confirm there is no wobble.

Your settings look fine. Can you pull the CAN wires out of the back of the dash and measure the voltage on each compared to ground. You should have >3V on CAN H and <2V on CAN L. For your ECU power grounds, you would ideally have 4 seperate wires that all run to the same ground point, usually on the engine.

I have made a few adjustments as a better starting point. Note your MAP sensor calibration is wrong so that needs to be confirmed, it should read the same as BAP when the engine is off. IAT and ECT are reading a little different which may suggest one has a different cal. It looks like your APS is possibly wired wrong as they both show near zero volts. TPS needs to be calibrated. The narrowband O2 wont be useful for tuning. The file you attached above is not a triggerscope file, it is just a normal PC log, so cant help much with that but the RPM shows correctly in the log so the trigger setup is likely correct. Im assuming you have already set the base timing? If there are no signs of life when you attempt to start with this map, then change the trigger offset by 360 and try again. Stratos #2.pclr

You could probably get even more simple, dont need the R1 or R5 as there is no range check. Toyota GT86 example below. It will give roughly 0V, 1V, 2V, 3V,5V with enough margin to allow the volt tolerance setting to ignore any combined button presses.

The CAN 2 power supply on the GTR plug-in will power a CAN lambda no worries. The 8A is just a very short inrush.

Its not losing signal, you have a trigger error so the trigger state returns to blank time before it resyncs. Can you provide a trigger scope capture at about 2-3000RPM, a copy of the tune and some info about the trigger and engine.

I just tried your map in an ecu on the bench and quick tune appears to work correctly for me. Do you have Lambda 1 assigned as the source in the quick tune settings? Was lambda 1 status showing "operating" when you tried?

Yeah I thought that was a long shot but worth ruling out. Can you try the trig 1 filtering back at level 1. Where did the trigger wheel kit come from, or is it DIY? Can you attach a couple of pics of the trigger set up so I can see the tooth design and sensor bracket etc.

Yes it should. It looks like the Gen 1/2 has a Bosch HDP5 normally open pump while the Gen 3 has a Hitachi normally closed pump, either should work. We have the lobe profile for the Bosch one but you would have to measure the Hitachi one yourself.

As far as I know there is no error value. It should generate a fault and report AN* is at 0V or 5V, but I think the temperature will just read whatever end of the cal table it is working in.

No, this means the injector has been modified, removing the part number is part of the dealers agreement with Bosch. So this means any Bosch deadtimes you find are irrelevant, the typical modification of removing or grinding the diffuser plate changes the deadtimes and the modified injectors typically vary a lot. Really the supplier should provide the data.

What do you mean by you cant download? Do you get an error message? Yes, 5.6.8 is the latest.

Trigger 2 sync modes needs to be on cam pulse 1X.

As I said I have only tested at 3bar so you can only use a 2D deadtime table with the data provided. What do you mean? The injector you linked to was 0280158040, is this what you have or not?

86 is the signal from the ecu aux. If you only have an aux output then pin 30 will have to be from an ignition switched source to prevent it backfeeding, not direct from battery.

The 5V and Gnd would be for adding extra sensors. Yes you could use a CANTEE to splice into the CAN bus for the dash.

Are you clicking the capture button on the trigger scope only when the engine is cranking, not before?

This is a (very old) G1 based ECU. It will require a hand controller or seriallink to tune.

Most likely the cam timing is out as I said.

There is a CAN port on the side of the ECU case, you could wire your own OBD2 port to this if you wish. Fault codes over OBD2 however are quite limited, you are better just connecting a laptop via PCLink to view the codes or count the flashes on the check engine light.

You can send the wastegate DC over CAN no worries, but what Im saying is you will still need an aux output assigned to "boost solenoid" in the software for the G4+ boost control function to work, so sending the signal over CAN is not going to save you an output - you will still need an output assigned to boost solenoid and you arent going to be able to use that output for anything else, so you might as well just wire it to the black box anyway.