Adamw

I have only tested the 040 injector at 3bar so far. Use 892cc/min @ 300kpa for the flowrate if you are using modelled mode.

I have made some changes to your map, you can use the file compare function to see the changes. Mostly the dog unload stage is too long, this only needs to be just long enough to get the dogs unlocked, usually about 20ms. I also changed some of your ecu log settings as some important channels were not logged and some were logged too slow to allow gear shift tuning. If you can provide a new log of some gear shifts using this map then we can probably suggest some further improvements. Most likely we can change to gear position for end shift mode and use shaft speed matching to get a nicer closed loop shift. EG6 Gear Shift V5.pclx

The fuel level gauge is not connected to or influenced by the ecu in any way.

First you will need to unlock your ECU, it will ignore triggers until it is unlocked. Secondly I think your trig 1 arming threshold is probably too high, put 0.3V in the 500rpm cell, and 0.8v in the 1000RPM cell.

The wiring needs to be a bit different than suggested above. Crank signal should go to B16 and cam signal to B12.

I have no experience with the waterpump, but I've used the hella relay for a small fuel pump that pulled about 10A max and it worked ok. Best to use an ign or inj drive as these will backfeed if connected to permanent 12V.

You can send ign sw status and hold power via CAN. Obviously the ecu will need to be powered up to receive a CAN message though.

The pic I showed is what is included in the 5.6.8 install. A copy attached. Link USB Drivers2.zip

G4+ needs an aux output assigned to boost solenoid to allow a boost DC table be allocated, so there is no advantage in commanding it via CAN.

Can you attach a copy of your tune and a short log of it running.

I dont think so, it would be impossible for a setting to change by itself after it was stored.

Connect the crank sensor signal to the 1deg CAS wire, connect the cam sensor to the 120deg cas wire. Use the 12V and ground at the case plug for both.

I think this might be a firmware issue when it exits the start up lockout., I'll have a closer look tomorrow.

It looks to me like you have some very old G4 USB driver installed and modern windows probably blocks that. It should have installed the correct one when you installed PC Link unless you clicked the cancel button or dont have admin privileges or perhaps uninstalled at some later date. Go to C:\Link G4+\Link USB Drivers and run either the **install_x64.exe or **install_x86.exe depending if you have 64bit or 32bit windows. Confirm it progresses through the install and reports it was installed successfully. Then plug in the ecu and confirm you have the driver date and version shown below.

It looks like the cam timing is out. Trig 2 should be about 40deg further to the left than yours is. Pink line shows roughly what trig 2 should look like.

You wouldnt normally need to adjust a TPS, it should only need a TPS calibration.

"Save" just means to save a copy of the configuration that is shown on your screen onto your PC, it does not save it into the ecu. "Store" is what you need to do to make any setting changes in the ecu permanent. You need to store before powering off the ecu.

You need to update your firmware, your ECU is on 6.22, this doesnt even have PDM functionality, which was added in FW 6.23. The current is 6.24. Yes you should be using G5 Pclink. The condition "PDM Battery voltage > 1" will just mean the output is enabled anytime the PDM is powered up. You can use the manual control to achieve the same.

Have you run the cam angle calibration?

One option would be to return the ecu to Link for a "bottom board swap". Effectively turning it into a V7-9 plug-in.

For a CAN keypad to switch on the "ignition relay", the keypad and PDM would have to remain powered up all the time. In OEM type BCM's they either have some old school mechanical contacts in the "start button" that powers up the BCM when pressed, or the BCM has some type of very low draw standby mode that watches the start button. It wouldnt be easy to replicate with a motorsport PDM and typical CAN keypad. Usually there would be "master switch" to power things up. You can certainly do things like increment count with each press and roll back to off after say press 4 to do for example off/low/med/high or whatever with either keypad. The Grayhill keypads just have 3 LED's for each button, you can turn these on/off independently to indicate 3 or 4 different states but they are fixed color (order time option) and fixed brightness and cant be made to flash easily. I believe brightness is programable but the Link PDM or ECU doesnt yet have that functionality built-in. The Blink LED's are a bit more flexiable, can be switched through 6 solid colors and 6 flashing colors. Button LED's and the backlight brightness can be user set to different fixed brightness via the ECU "find devices" tool, and backlight can also be switched with an ecu input. A couple of other considerations; The blink uses laser-etched plastic inserts for "labels" - so probably less range, possibly a little extra cost, but longer life, Vs the grayhill just uses decals, so these could be considered pro's or cons I guess. The grayhill one's as a general comment are more compact for the same number of buttons, so can be easier to find the real estate. The Blink buttons have a deeper press movement and more tactile feel, and coupled with the bigger size I find you often dont even need to look at, compared to my old car with the grayhill it takes a bit more of a stare to make sure you actually did hit the switch when racing.

It was obviously set to 5000 when the log was recorded, when the map was saved, and when the ecu was last stored.

Your settings look correct. The engine fan doesn't run when the engine is not running. If you update the ecu to the latest firmware you will have a "CAN Aux 2 Test" setting in the fan settings just like a real aux pin.

Looking at your first pic your com port device is named "Link ElectroSystems USB ECU", I dont remember the G4+ ecu's ever using that description, although it may be an old one from before my time. Can you go to PC Link, >help>about, and confirm what PC Link version you have. Can you also right click on the link electro device in device manager and go to >properties>driver and tell us the driver date and driver version.

Attached a pic showing pin locations for the common honda distributor connectors. Connect home sensor signal to pin 6, trigger sensor signal to pin 5, both get 12V from pin 9, and sensor gnds can go to 2 & 4. Having said that, Im not sure what the intent of this device is, it seems to have been designed without much knowledge of trigger systems. The factory distributor has VR sensors and has 24T, so the stock distributor base would give significantly more accurate engine position - that is assuming they are coupled to the camshaft using a similar mechanism. If it has some reduced backlash then it may be a little better. 8 cam teeth (effectively 16 crank teeth) also doesnt divide equally into 360degs so that typically introduces further error into engine position calculations - this is why nearly all trigger wheels are based on 12/24/36/60 teeth.