Adamw

No, delete the two files I listed from the roaming folder.

I dont see anything obvious in the log, it appears to have everything it should need. The throttle is potentially open more than it needs to be, and although that shouldnt prevent it from starting, with that combined with your slow cranking RPM you dont have any manifold vacuum being generated which means you will have less fuel vapour to promote combustion. It would be worth a shot of starter fluid to see if that gives any signs of life.

I dont see anything obvious cause of the trigger errors in any of the logs or scopes yet. As Kris suggests, I also think it would be a good idea to increase the sensor air gap to get the trigger voltage down a bit. Although there is no evidence of the high voltage causing a problem in any of the info provided, there are a couple of reasons I would be more comfortable if it were more typical. 1. You can get a situation at high RPM with high voltage VR signals where the signal cant drop fast enough to always cross zero after the gap. 2. We only test the trigger inputs at up to 70V, it looks like you are probably going above that a little (scope can only read to 60V). I noticed in a couple of your high RPM scope captures it looks like we possibly have a software "overflow" type issue in the scope capture when the voltage exceeds 60V, so I dont think this is relevant but have asked one of our engineers to confirm if that is what Im seeing. In your logs, the vast majority of your trigger errors occur between about 5000 & 6000 which is probably right around the torque peak where the ignition system is working at it's hardest. Often a trigger error at peak torque would indicate a spark jumping to something other than across the spark plug gap, or the high voltage/high current ignition system is inducing noise into the trigger signal some other way. I noticed your spark edge is set to rising - I assume this means it has an MSD system on it? Have you confirmed the distributor rotor is nicely aligned with the cap posts at the ~25-30BTDC that you have when the errors occur? Is there much mechanical backlash in the distributor and drive?

The CAN cables are 0.5mm FLRY wire, it will do about 6A, fine for a dash and CAN lambda.

All the models listed on your picture are direct injected engines, this would be more like a 200-300Bar sensor, not 6.

It sounds like your parameter config file is messed up. Try this:

You are shooting in the dark trying to tune fuel with no wideband, but sounds like it is way too lean. I would expect master to be up around 10-15 for 750cc injectors, try increasing it to see if it responds better or not.

correct

You need to remove coil 1, connect an old HT lead between the spark plug and coil, then clamp around the HT lead. Many timing lights trigger off the wrong dwell edge if you clamp around the primary side or "service loop".

How is your calibration set up? Are they reading zero before the engine is started?

Temp 3 is available at the MAF plug in the engine bay.

Your ECU setup looks ok but there is no CAN set up in the dash. I have added the default CAN stream to your config attached. Your ECU is also using quite old firmware so it would be a good idea to update that. R33 DriftV2.aemcd7

In general if any aux devices are powered up but the ecu is not then the aux devices would be on all the time. In other words, if the ecu had died then I would expect your fuel pump to be running full time any time the ignition is on. The fact it is not suggests there is no power to the fuel pump relay either. The ECU also has nothing to do with the starter motor so it sounds like you have a main power supply issue somewhere.

Just check neither of the pins in the knock sensor have continuity to the metal base, some do. If it doesnt then polarity doesnt matter. If one pin does have continuity to the base then this is your ground pin. The shield and ground wire can both be connected together at the ecu end.

Yeah, there are not too many easy options with AWD systems like the Evo. For straight-line type racing or launching it is more common to do some sort of open loop power management based on some predetermined curve of maximum possible wheel speed acceleration vs time or speed. I have seen LIDAR or RADAR and even fifth wheels used in some applications. The G5 would likely be able to do closer to traditional slip based TC using its "GPS". The G5 uses a high speed GPS with sensor fusion and dead-reckoning which should remove most of the typical lag from GPS reported speed (not fully implemented or tested yet).

Yes.

Yeah you could use that. You cant connect the strain gauge shift knob directly to the ECU as it doesnt have an amplifier built in as most do. So I would use the FT "controller" only as an amplifier. Connect the yellow/red 0-5V output to an ecu analogue input and set that up as gear lever force in the ecu. Connect the black signal ground wire to ecu sensor ground. All set up and control of the gear shift will be done in the ecu, the only thing you may have to change in the FT controller is the "sensor sensitivity" setting if it doesnt output an appropriate voltage range to the ecu with the default setting.

Attach a copy of your tune and dash config, and possibly describe your wiring/CAN connection.

Most likely your control is poorly set up, if you attach a copy of your tune and a log we may be able to give you some guidance. You are misinformed. The lambda controller in the Fury is a Bosch CJ135, their most feature rich digital lambda chipset. There is no response speed difference between the 4.9 and the ADV sensors that I have observed. The 4.9 has about 3 times better accuracy and 3 times less pressure sensitivity over the ADV. The only two advantages the ADV has is quicker heat up time and a slightly higher temperature rating on the hex. I dont follow what you are saying here. Can you give us a screenshot to explain or perhaps describe the steps to reproduce the problem? I spend a lot of time helping many different users with gear shift control and I dont remember seeing any odd behaviour in tables. Again this sounds like a setup problem with one of the fundamentals. If you require different PID gains at different pressure set points then this means your system is non-linear. PID control relies on the system response being linear over the range that you wish to control, this is not a requirement specific to Link ECU, it is the fundamental "golden rule" of any PID control. What a "linear system" means in relation to boost control is for a given % change in solenoid duty cycle you should get approximately the same boost pressure increase regardless of whether you are at low boost pressure or high boost pressure. Obviously a perfectly linear boost control system is never going to happen in real life as there are many variables working against you - solenoids have deadtime, increasing back pressure, variable mass flow and EGT, wastegate flow restrictions etc... But, what Im trying to say is if a single set of PID variables cant give you stable control over the range of pressures you wish to run, then there is an issue causing a large change in response linearity in your system. That could be plumbing related, incorrect solenoid frequency or some mechanical or airflow limitation of the system. As an example, if say increasing the duty cycle by 5% increases boost by say 30Kpa when you are running on the lowest boost setting, then you also want a 5% increase in DC at the highest boost setting to give an effect of about 30Kpa.

Yes you can send pretty much anything that is in the dash back to the ecu, including sensors etc if you run out of ecu inputs.

Take a look at the WRX11 base map, the charge temp table in that was reasonably well calibrated, it was a JDM sti with the air temp sensor in the manifold next to the throttle body.

Correct, only selective plug-ins have the high-side drive chipset fitted, from memory WRX9/10/11 subaru which use it for the TGV and possibly one other whose name escapes me.

Assuming you have the E36 plug-in ECU, it only has low side drive aux outputs fitted. Wire as per the help diagram below.

It will work. MGP would be the recommended option though.

There is a map attached 3 posts up.