Adamw

We are expecting the falling edge on cam teeth to be just to the left of the "gaps" on the crank.  Then as the cams advance that cam edge moves further to the left of the gap.
Since his signal is inverted his falling edge actually starts off on the right hand side of the gap, and as the cam advances it crosses over to the other side of that gap.  I would say this is when it gets all upset.  Changing to the rising edge will put the trigger points back to the correct side of the gap where we designed them to work. 
 
A bit of rounding at the top or bottom a square wave is usually not a drama, the actual trigger point that the ecu uses is at a level of about 1.0 or 1.5V depending or if its rising or falling (cant remember which is which).  So provided the edge looks relatively vertical around the 1.0V mark you are usually good.
 
Andpdas,  I should have also mentioned if you change the edge to rising and the engine will no longer start you may have to try adding or subtracting 360deg from your current trigger offset.

What sensor do you have or what is the calibration values?.  I will give you a screenshot once we have that info
 

Yes, provided your speedo is electronic and you connect it to the ecu, then you can adjust it.  You need to connect the speedo to aux 1-8, assign the aux to "speedo out". You will then get these settings:

 

Sorry I missed your earlier post.  You can set the dwell table to have whatever you want on the axes.  If the V7 base map has the setup you want to run then just open that map, right click on the dwell table, select import/export>export to clipboard.  Then open your map, go to dwell table, right click, select import/export>import from clipboard.  Store before shutting down.

Your screen shot above on the Feb 1 post shows you have trig 1 set to reluctor, the AEM EPM is hall as far as I know.  So set both trig 1 and 2 to optical/hall, turn on the pullup resistor.  Make sure trig 2 sync mode is set to cam pulse 1X.  If you still get no RPM then post a triggerscope.

They work fine wired in the normal manner if you connect to an ignition aux rather than a normal aux.

Further to Simon's comment, you can also use E-throttle for idle control and dont need a separate idle valve.
You can presently have up to 3 E-throttle target tables, so to give an example you could have one for normal driving, one for when antilag is activated (which doesnt allow throttle to close beyond 15%) and another for say highway cruising that has a nicer response curve at small throttle openings.

The Bosch idle valves found on BMW's and many other european cars are very convenient with simple hose type connections.  You can get 2 and 3 wire versions but 2 wire would be the preferable one since you dont have too many spare aux outputs on the Atom.  Expensive new but good value 2nd hand and rarely give any trouble.  For the MAP sensor I cant think of too many good examples off the top of my head.  Many 90's toyotas have them or the GM/delphi 1Bar might be options.
  
 
 

Yes you can do this a couple of different ways.
One option is; In the ECU you still assign the function you want to an auxiliary output - lets say as an example we set up engine cooling fan on Aux output 1.  You dont physically connect any wires to aux 1.  You then use the "A1 (status)" parameter to send to your PDM over CAN.  The Aux status parameters are sent as follows:  0 = OFF,  1 = OFF,  2 = ON,  3 = FAULT.  You can use the Multiplier/divider/offset to scale that into numbers that your PDM wants.  For instance if your PDM wants 0=off, 1=on, then you use an offset of -1 to get that.
Heres an example:

 
An alternative option is very similar to option 1 but use a Virtual auxiliary rather than a real auxiliary - this allows you to keep the real auxiliary output free for doing other stuff (you only have a max of 8 virtual auxiliaries however).  Set up the virtual auxiliary just like you would set up the normal auxiliary, then send parameter "VA1 (Status)" to the PDM.  
Here is an example for a Virtual aux set to fuel pump. (note the ECU will still handle the normal fuel pump prime logic etc):

Hi Hans,
I believe Mapper's question was referring to the comments he found in this post here: 
 
Although there are improvements planned for E-throttle ISC in the future, for most users the existing functionality works perfectly fine and there are no show-stopping issues.  We sell many plugin ECU's for E-throttle cars and have very few reports of poor idle control, when there have been it is usually just tuning related.  

Sounds like you have this a bit mixed up?  Pin 4 is the SAS and it is connected to Ign 6.  It would typically only be used for some rally antilag setups so thats why you dont see it in the base map.
Our diagram shows the purge valve is connected to pin 16, but in our plugin ECU we dont control that at all.
 
Our plug-in doesnt have anything connected to these pins, they are not really needed.  I believe the Factory ECU grounds the "G pin" at wide open throttle to turn the alternator off.  You can connect that to an aux out if you wish.  Without it connected it will just charge all the time.
 
Connect Thunder "Ign Sw " pin to Evo pin 99 (ignition switch).   Connect Thunder "Main relay +" to Evo pin 57.  Connect Thunder "Main relay -" to any ground.
ECU +14V can connect to Evo pins 59 & 47.  You may also need to add a separate relay for "+14V Aux9/10" power supply if you are fitting E-throttle.

The ecu is not entering idle control or idle ignition control because the base position table is commanding the valve open too far so the engine settles above the RPM lockout.
Change all the settings in red below to match this example.  It will likely still not work correctly but hopefully will be getting closer and we may get some more useful data from a log.  Do another log for us with these settings.

I personally would leave the idle ignition disabled for now until you get the idle valve working reasonably well - otherwise it can mask problems with the idle valve tuning.  That is why I didnt ask you to change the RPM lockout originally.
The stalling is caused when fan #1 turns on, this is because your Fan#2 settings are wrong so that the ECU has already applied the "fan step" at 80°C, long before Fan 1 turns on.  (I also note you have no fan set to turn on with AC but we will leave that for now).
Try changing all red values again as per the screenshot below.  Leave idle ign off for now and do another log.  

Ok, idle valve operation is looking reasonable now.  A little more AC step is needed.  We will also bump proportional, and add anti stall.  Proportional can possibly go higher than I show below to speed up response but try these settings first.  You can also try the idle ignition settings below.

Set it to RPM/Speed mode.  Set detection type to user defined (since you already have the ratio numbers in your old map).  Copy ratio numbers into the ratio table.
Check there is a driven wheel speed source assigned under >chassis and body>speed sources. 
That should be all it needs.  If it still doesnt work then attach a copy of the map.

A couple of extra tips for the MTX-L...
Connect the innovate yellow wire to any spare Link analog input.  
The MTX doesnt have a dedicated analog ground so this will often cause a large and variable ground offset if grounded to the wrong location.  The Innovate manual suggests grounding to the negative battery post but I would suggest the engine block instead.
The "innovate LC1" calibration in the PCLink software is the correct one to choose (MTX is the same).

I vote against also.  Gimmick value only, no practical use for anything to do with an ECU or tuning so I would prefer ecu software to remain focused on it's job.
As well as the needed inputs that Davidv listed, there are also 2 very influential effects that not usually considered in virtual dyno type softwares - those being road  inclination and wind speed. 

There are instructions in the help file how to set up the CAN for the AIM dash.
Note the pressure X 10 bug is in the AIM firmware, I notified them of this error about a year ago.  From memory Lambda is also out by a factor of 10.
See the last couple of posts in this thread:
 

It’s pretty simple to do your own, see the video in this other post for the basic process:  
 

The Plex dashes have the termination resistor built in so you should be ok there.  Correct that the CANPCB cable is not twisted but I have never seen that cause a problem, it is only ~150mm long.  
Can you attach your .pclr file so I can take a quick look at your settings.

When you blip the throttle the idle valve will return to whatever position is in the base position table.  If the base position table is incorrect then the engine RPM will settle outside of the control range so closed loop will never engage.  It appears your base position table hasn’t been tuned at all.  You need to switch idle control mode to open loop and tune the base position table properly before switching to closed loop.  There is a guide in the help file.

I assume we are talking Evo 9 Mivec?  If so the mivec cam position is done by a separate sensor to the trigger “sync” so you are free to change the trigger.  Note you will need to remove one tooth from the exhaust cam if you are changing to a generic multi tooth or missing tooth crank.  
Benefits of a higher tooth count is more correct/stable ignition timing during fast transient conditions so if retuned you can often run more timing before the knock limit is reached.

You have your E-throttle table set up to hold the throttle open 20% when antilag is turned on, but in your Antilag ign cut table you have no cut at 20% throttle.

You can use any aux 1-5 for the vvt solenoid.
I also suspect your idle valve may actually not be what we call a “3 wire” type.  I think it maybe like the Subaru type that has 12V, ground, & signal?  Have you got any info about it or a wiring diagram?
if you have 24-1 crank and 1 tooth on cam then it should start and run, just leave the vvt solenoid unplugged.
I don’t think you will be able to get vvt to work if you have changed to a 24-1 crank trigger.

Try the basic setup below.  Set "upshift digital input" to the DI that is connected to the  Clutch switch.  Leave downshift digital input set to off.
The gear detection/gear ratios will need to be set up and working first.
With these example settings below; when RPM is >3000 & <9000 & TP is <30%, you will get a 25%throttle blip for 100ms everytime the clutch is pressed.

 
Note, upshift gear cut will not work if you have brake switch in series, I would try using just clutch switch only initially and only add brake switch if needed.