Davidv

Hi again David, 
When the injection mode is set to sequential/staged the Inst fuel Consumption will show he fuel flowing through the primary injectors. So if your staged injection is not active the data will reflect what is happening.

Hi!
It would be nice if there could be more virtual aux so i can create more functions 
also would be nice if there could be more conditions to use to create logic Control..

Check out the options on the injection test for injector drive 1.
Think this will have you covered.

1) It would be a really nice addition if the shift light output could be set on ANY of the aux outputs, rather than only on the few high frequency ones. An LED doesn't need a particularly high frequency to flicker, and I would be happy with it 'ON' when above the gear and RPM dependant settings and it would save re-pinning the harness on my PNP loom. 
2) The ability to paste a compared table or section.
3) Time delay adjustment before the ECU logs a sensor fault, (e.g. warm up delay from Wideband or a short intermittent high condition)
4) Extra virtual outputs. These are a great feature and a few more would be amazing.
5) Review of the timers, these don't work as I would expect?
 
Couple of settings that could be corrected in the Evo IX Basemap for a UK car-
Ignition 8 = I/C Spray light on dash board. 
Digital Input 1 = Mivec (VVT) Pull Up Resistor needs to be ON.
Digital Input 2 = IC Spray [Auto] position, Pull Up Resistor needs to be ON and FALLING edge.
 
Keep up the great work guys, love the ECU and the continuous improvements that are being rolled out. The above is only nit-picking but would make great product even better!
 

Good to hear Dave, hope you get well.
I and many others appreciate your input, long may it continue

Hi all,
I just wanted to let everyone know I am still alive and slowly getting better after major surgery.
Hopefully another couple of weeks and I will be able to get back to one of my very favourite past times, helping out with tech support where ever I can.
I honestly miss this aspect of my life and has been a huge part of my life for so many years.
I miss all the fantastic crew at LINK and can't wait to get back to business as usual.
Take care everyone.
Talk soon,
Regards
Dave.

I have a wish/suggestion :
 
If possible to add graph of compressor effeciency like in the AEM Data program ?
Like there you can add a pic of your compressor flow chart, and calculated with flow, pressure and temp where you are in the effeciency chart.
 

Hi David,
I've just been testing this (on a pre-release version) on my laptop with the resolution set to 800x600. If I change the vertical size of the setup window to the minimum I can access all the buttons. What resolution are you running?

If you open the Log file manager the previous PCLog is selectable in there.

Hey,
Let me just first say, that the cruise control function is BRILLIANT.
In conjunction with e-throttle, it's turned my car into something very jerky and uncomfortable to drive, into something silky smooth while cruising. Total game changer, absolutely love it.

However, as always there are a few extra features which could be a cool addition.
1. Being able to assign a DI to a preset "set" speed. As an example... I only ever turn cruise control on to either 80kph, 100kph, etc.
It would be cool if in the cruise control menu there was:
Set1 = 70kph
Set2 = 105kph
Or something like that. Then you could assign Set1 to DI5 or whatever and it will always go to that speed when you hit the button.

2. Some up and down speed buttons, so you can increase or decrease the Set speed in 5kph increments or something like that.

3. Being able to change the Set value in Pclink in realtime by either wheel speed or rpm.
One unexpectedly awesome feature of cruise control, is being able to hold the car at the dead centre of a column of cells. When you go up and down hills (or load it up with handbrake or dyno or something) You move through the various load zones which works awesomely for getting great results with the mixture map or Quick tune.  So it would be cool to be able to set the "set" by RPM so you can get it bang on the centre of a column of cells for this purpose.

 

Could you make it so the Cal tables can be labeled so we can list the sensor. Then under each Cal tab another label so we can list inputs that use that Cal table.
Hope that makes sense.
Cheers

Hi David
#2 is in there already. But have to admit its not covered in the help. The Set and Resume inputs perform this function. If Cruise is operating and you hit the Set input it will increase the speed. And the resume will decrease the speed.
#3 is a current work in progress and should be coming soon.
 
 

Hi Davidv,
I was mistaken also, for some reason I thought the team where back next week but they are back now.
Yes the LINK software etc is really a very good thing, like any product there is always room for improvement, but without feed back and suggestions from people such as yourself products and software just go stagnet.
And that certainly is definitely not the case with this company LINK, the world really don't know what they are missing out on by using other products,
Thanks again for your feed back.
The idea will be passed on.
Regards
Dave.

Hi David,
I can re-create the problem you are seeing when displaying the Lambda in AFR units with manual min/max. I will pass this on to the engineering team. 
There is an issue with the logging of the LR and RF wheel speeds, they are swapped. This will be fixed in the next release. Can you check it the RF parameter has your LR data?

The answer is helmholtz Shooting flames with a rotary engine

I dont think the provided instant fuel value would be much use in your scenario, because it gives a litres per km result that relies on a wheelspeed DI input for the km part of the equation.
Which I'm imagining will be wildly inaccurate in the case of a big HP rotary driving on dirt!
It sounds like a litres per minute figure is what you'd be after instead, you can probably get a good enough approximation of this from datalogging Effective Injector Pulsewidth.

Some entertaining watching, I can see what you mean about the vibration at launch. It looked like a fun day, good to see a couple of VW's coming in the opposite direction at the start of the video.

I went to a drag day was yesterday, and had a friggen blast!
Unfortunately however throughout the whole day I just couldnt get a clean run off the line at all.
The motor was running awesomely, I was ~10kph faster trap speeds compared to last year with standard ECU and lower rev limit.
But my best time was still half a second slower due to traction issues. (14.8 was my best for the day )
I tried a few tricks to remedy the situation...
Turned on launch control and set it at various rpm points, didnt really help. Took a bit of fiddling to get the launch control activation working how I wanted, as sometimes it was coming on while I was trying to do a burnout haha.
I was doing 3rd gear burnouts without trouble all day, tried for fourth.... baaaaddd idea haha. Ended up doing a gigantic clutch burnout which stunk out my car for the rest of the day haha. woops.
I also Setup an E-throttle map that would limit the throttle body to only opening half way in first gear. Didnt help much.

These are all great ideas and functions, but I've got a physical problem with the car - the angle of the 4 links to the diff need amending, currently when you go to take off it tries lifting the diff off the ground and you go nowhere.
I guess it's one of those things where phsics just disagree with the idea of fixing the problem with electrickery. Once I've got that fixed though, I'm definitely going to play around a bit more with launch control and E-throttle configs etc, I can really see the potential here for awesome things.
Also had my first play around with virtual auxilaries, damn these are cool! Can do some really awesome things with a bit of imagination.
So I was a bit dissapointed with my times, but I was happy to get a trap speed that indicates its worthy of high 13s (99.7mph) if it can get a good launch.

I had a camera setup in the car but the axle tramp was so bad that it was shutting off the camera haha!
But here's some footage that survived... Really cool variety of cars in attendance.
 

Maybe this is already possible and I have just not found it yet, but is there a way to use the internal accelerometer in the Thunder as a roll over switch of a sort?  Not sure if it can either respond to a specific amount of extreme acceleration in known "bad" directions or excessive amounts of (de)cceleration (hitting an immovable object) or if it can act as a gyroscope as well and known if the car goes inverted that it should shutdown the engine and fuel pumps.
adam
 

You can ignore ION 1-4 these arent required (it's a return signal from the coilpacks to factory ECU, not required for Link)
OCV+ and OCV- are the wires for the VVTI solenoid.
So you need 12v supplied to OCV+ and then wire OCV- to aux 1. Check with the trigger scope that polarity is correct when engine is cranking

The factory ECU needs a supply of voltage to hold its memory when its switched off, which is what the BATT pin is. Link doesnt need this.

G2+ will be Trigger 2

You dont need to worry about the EVG pin if you arent using MAF anymore.
SIL is the check engine light, so you can wire that to an aux output if you wanted.
TC pin isnt required it just goes to the diagnostic port.

ELS - ignore it

 

Absolutely, thats what I do... it helps with fuel economy when you've got the wideband set to be constantly trimming the fuel when cruising.
Do you already have a wideband kit for it? 
A few things to keep in mind...
1. Generally speaking the wideband needs to be mounted further downstream than a narrowband sensor, and it's very important that you have it mounted at the correct "depth". As in, the tip of the sensor should not be protruding into the exhaust stream at all like a narrowband does.
Generally they come with a bung that you weld into your exhaust, read the instructions for correct mounting location and position. 
2. Most widebands come with a Bosch sensor, there are two variants the 4.2 and 4.9 sensor. The 4.9 sensor has a better lifespan due to some design changes, I've used the 4.2 sensor and it now needs replacing after... less than a year.
So now I'm paying for the slightly more expensive 4.9 sensor on top of the original kit, the poor man pays twice!
The Bosch 4.9 sensor is used in lots of OEM cars and if mounted correctly etc is supposed to last 100,000kms if I recall.
Going to a wideband is definitely a great idea, not just for trimming fuel while cruising but it gives you invaluable information in your datalogs, if you ever go to the racetrack or whatever. If the car starts running rough you can quite quickly tell that either fuel is a problem, or it isnt.

Absolutely, thats what I do... it helps with fuel economy when you've got the wideband set to be constantly trimming the fuel when cruising.
Do you already have a wideband kit for it? 
A few things to keep in mind...
1. Generally speaking the wideband needs to be mounted further downstream than a narrowband sensor, and it's very important that you have it mounted at the correct "depth". As in, the tip of the sensor should not be protruding into the exhaust stream at all like a narrowband does.
Generally they come with a bung that you weld into your exhaust, read the instructions for correct mounting location and position. 
2. Most widebands come with a Bosch sensor, there are two variants the 4.2 and 4.9 sensor. The 4.9 sensor has a better lifespan due to some design changes, I've used the 4.2 sensor and it now needs replacing after... less than a year.
So now I'm paying for the slightly more expensive 4.9 sensor on top of the original kit, the poor man pays twice!
The Bosch 4.9 sensor is used in lots of OEM cars and if mounted correctly etc is supposed to last 100,000kms if I recall.
Going to a wideband is definitely a great idea, not just for trimming fuel while cruising but it gives you invaluable information in your datalogs, if you ever go to the racetrack or whatever. If the car starts running rough you can quite quickly tell that either fuel is a problem, or it isnt.

Ther are a setting "DI ON". Select  that as a condition for virtual aux and put in the number of DI Channel (e.g. DI 1, DI 5) 
Logic on virtual aix must be:
Cond1 and Cond2 and Cond3 
 

I keep a little netbook plugged in, I datalog straight into PClink so records EVERYTHING rather than just 25 things. 
(Although at 40hz max instead of 100hz)
For me 40hz is proving good enough for trackdays / datalogging when cruising / etc. Not the ideal solution if you need 100hz, but it's a cheap option that gives access to all of the data. 
 

I ran a few trackdays at Hampton Downs with a fairly conservative tune as I didnt have knock sensing working at the time.
Looking at the results of both the MAF sensor and the MAP sensor, concluded that after 6000rpm my intake was causing a restriction for the engine.
As I was staying on 101KPA right to that point, and then it slowly tapers off. MAF values show that air intake was still increasing steadily to 8000rpm, but less than it could be.
I was looking at the intake piping thinking that perhaps I could go to a 4" pipe or something. But then figured... I dont need the MAF anymore, so it's not necessary to maintain any sized pipe.
So I thought it's a good time to head to solidworks and draw up the factory throttle body to its exact dimensions and some of the piping. Then create a pressure drop at the rear of the throttle body until I had a mass flow rate slightly above what my MAF sensor was showing me (About 170 grams/sec at 7000rpm)
Then I mucked around with a few different designs of bigger pipes or whatever, but it seemed the least restrictive option was a big bellmouth on the throttle body in a big enclosure with a panel filter on the side. Wtih the goal of maintaining atmospheric pressure right to the bellmouth.
So went back and forth between solidworks and some Cardboard Aided Design to come up with a prototype sort of shape which I then had lasercut.
Still a work in progress. However if I end up needing more fuel at WOT and the pressure drop at high rpm decreases then it should be some indication that it's doing its job.

 
The main thing towards avoiding any pressure drop was just keeping cross sectional area huge all of the way. Going to a 3" or 4" inlet at any point and it's back to an instant pressure drop.



As stupid as it sounds, the cardboard that they ship big flat panel TVs in is a really good material for mocking things up. It's really thick and obviously pretty easy to manipulate and then measure to put back into CAD drawings.
Plenty available for free by raiding the bins out back of Noel Leeming or where ever.

Just need to figure out how to mount it all now, and then start making the second half of the box which goes down through the gaurd to get some fresh air from out front.


 

The narrow band setting will be the one to go for.
This will give the clearest noise increase if knock should occur.
Frequencies outside will be suppressed but if they were loud enough can still get through to some extent.