MagicMike

Would this be at all possible?
Instead of having to save each individually?

Would this be at all possible?
Instead of having to save each individually?

Would this be at all possible?
Instead of having to save each individually?

so I've implemented this. no other changes.
initial observations on driving.. through the lambda gauge, not through Link software..
AF ratios settle much quicker, and remain constant.
I have idle AF set a little richer to give better idle, I might change this leaner now as it appeared much more stable than previously
below 3k rpm, low gears in traffic on neutral throttle there remains an oscillation although reduced in amplitude, but the wavelength has been increased dramatically. previously this would occur every 0.5 secs, now approx every 1.5 sec.
I'll check the ecu log when I get the chance and compare.
 
cheers
Marc
 
 

Hi Marc
Good to hear back from you. How much does your AFR oscilate? Where is the wideband located? Depending on position, you need to adjust Lambda rate and Gain. 
You should do some testing. Tune your VE table with CLL off  as good to your Target AFR as possible. Adjust your target AFR table to the rich side with one task by the amounts listed in the gain table 0,33 0,66 etc. And log, with a high logging rate, how long the sensor needs to get to a stable reading. 
Lets say it needs 0.3 seconds. This means your frequency in the lambda rate table may be max. 1/0,3  = 3.333
This test should be done at different loads and rpms to work out best CLL settings. Best place to do that is a load bearing dyno. 

Regarding Lambda control error correction table. I spend alot of time to tune these. The base map is adjusted the wrong way around. Because the error correction tables is a % corretion of actual error, you want big corrections like 15%  on small errors (0.03 lambda error) and small correction (like 5%) at the biggest error on the table. This is because a fuel film built up first in the ports when big correction are applied. This means it needs several burn cycles to get the whole change applied and measured. This means lambda control applies big changes two or three times for big corrections which leads to Lambda oscillation.  On small changes fuel film built up is much less.  Lambda change is done and measured much faster and within same burn cycle. This means the Lambda correction can be set much higher, because the change in AFR is measured instant.
I have attached a tuned example.  

At last, my graphics issues are fixed, despite having latest geforce drivers, it was the windows setting for text scaling, it needs to be 100%, not 125%.

Then all you need to do is adjust the calibration number on the DI settings.

As fare I remember the old Nissan knock Sensors make groudn through the block and one pin makes contact with the mounting surface. You can Check that with a ohm meter. 
Bosch knock sensor doesn't have contact between pin and mounting surface. 

Hi 
To speed up wiring and diagnostic I would like to have a function that outputs a list, a schematic, and a picture of the connectors with all labels of all configured (assigned) in- and outputs. On top of that many smart things could be implemented like an auto updated complete wiring schematic in an easy understandable format(e.g MS Visio style). These things can speed up install time and wiring a lot, which sets barrier lower to switch to a standalone ECU.  
possible examples attached. 

Pretty much finished. First startup in car vid at the link below.
 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/p73ni3uusoj6t7m/car pc dash small.mp4?dl=0
 

I've gone with a 10" win 10 tablet took the back off and connected an external button to the power switch
 

 

 

Hey people, 
Just thought I'd post up a quick note about something I did recently that worked out well.

I was wanting to optimise ignition timing for cruise, so using some switches on my dash to trigger a combination of datalogging, 4D ignition, 5D ignition and the 2nd ignition table set to overlay mode.

With the idea that I could add or remove timing from the main table in varying amounts without having to stop the car, and datalog the whole lot easily.

Like so: 



Since you can turn on more than one ignition trim table at once, using those three you can get a combination of timing settings which I then marked on the switches. 

So +1 degree, + 3 degrees, +5 degrees, etc. 
I completed a run on a particular stretch of motorway that has lots of ups and downs, with cruise control turned on at a speed that's at 3250rpm in 6th gear.
Then flicked the first switch, did it again.
Flicked second switch, did it again, and so on. 

When home looking through the data, bringing up a time plot with instant fuel consumption and throttle angle it was very easy to see which timing gave best economy. 


However a secondary method of checking fuel consumption overall is to create a "statistics" page and bring up wheel speed and instant fuel consumption, and look at the mean values:


Then from here I've made a quick excel sheet that converts it to Litres per 100km:



Then from here, collated the results from each run.


So based on this it's pretty clear that an additional 9 deg advance made the engine pretty happy on those particular cells, so updated my ignition table and readjusted some of the surrounding cells to more sensible values too.

It was a fairly time consuming exercise but it's amazing to see how much fuel I have been throwing down the toilet just based on under advanced ignition. 
It was also interesting to see that at 100kpa my car only has 14 deg ignition at that rpm, but then by 70kpa it's wanting 33. (The goal AFR changes though, to be fair... 15.2:1 goal AFR for cruising)

Since changing the timing the car is a lot quieter too! 
I am guessing because when you dont have enough timing, the flame front is still expanding when the exhaust valves open. So instead of having energy push the piston down, it's coming out the exhaust as noise and heat. 

closing this out for the last time!
for MX5 NA 1989 1.6
I got a heap of those connectors from Mouser.
I rewired fuel pump to be on Aux 5.
I wired the purge solenoid back up to Aux 7 and now use the purge solenoid as a cold start air device - small air filter on one opening, other to the inlet manifold, and solenoid activated below 40C. works a treat!
 
also had the separate questions around the AF gauge and where to tap the 12V feed from to only be on when engine is running. Wanted this as when downloading big ECU logs, or fiddling with link, the ECU needs to be on for a while but not engine running, which meant in the old configuration, the AF sensor heater was also on - not good for longevity. Turns out the correct wire is the Blue/Red on the fuel pump relay (yellow re;ay and connector) up above the accelerator.
hope this helps someone else in future!
 
 

Glad you got it sorted out Idris.  
But if you would like to get better information from the members of the forum, it would help if you supplied a bit more information with your questions.  
Different engine combinations sometimes benefit from different settings.  And with your rather vague post, there is not much to go on to give you good suggestions.
I hope this helps with your further posts on this forum.
Have a nice day.
 

Hi Adam,
Just to close this off i spent a lot of time trying everything to catch the stall - as i said the gain and anti stall did zip from max to min values.
It really needed a dashpot style fall to idle - which when ethrottle is setup the hold table is removed. 
I managed to create a vitual dashpot using a virtual auxillary triggering a timer and that timer controlling a slowed return to idle using the 3D idle table.
Works very well and might be something others could use if they have a similar problem.
My engine has a very light flywheel and two charger bypasses and 550cc under runner injectors, big cam, remote ethrottle body, head flowed to hell and back etc etc etc all on a 1565cc engine so the combination is probably hard to tune but this made it very well behaved.
Have attached the tune in case anyone else has a similar problem.
Thanks again Adam and please pass on thanks to the engineers, support etc as the g4+ really is excellent.
BR
Renault R8 with v-dashpot.pclr

Thanks Dave.
Can we add a 0-12volt input to the wish list please. 

So I balked at paying $70-100 for a Dell USB dongle that might not work and went ahead with the DIY cable. I cut up a USB extension and spliced the female end into a micro USB cable. Then I spliced the power feed from a regular USB cable into that.
It's really hard to strip and solder wires that size. It took several attempts, but I can now display a dashboard while charging the tablet
Just thought I'd loop back so the knowledge can be captured.

Screen going well, stable and no issues 

It will only use the value of the first cell even tho the logging shows different. 

If your using the the FP speed table make sure you use all 14 Cells even if you don't need them. As advised by Simon. Works well after that.

You will also need to set up the individual cyl knock level gains and cyl allocations on the "cyl setup" page, so that all cylinders report a similar background noise level.
HP Academy have quite a good webinar on tuning the G4+ Knock control system: https://www.hpacademy.com/previous-webinars/049-setting-up-knock-control-link-g4-vipec/
You will need a ~$20 membership to view their webinars.

A quick copy/paste hack sorry...  Showing OBDII socket connection to a plugin ECU using CANPCB & CANF.

I wired the cam sensor backwards!
The give away was that it went negative first!

 

I had previously always used afr, but since heading towards multi-fuel setup, have made the change to lambda. If you remove all references to afr in your life, it isn't hard and doesn't take long to make the adjustment!