Vaughan

Thanks Guys, appreciate it.
Looks to be all sorted now.
So for anyone wanting to know exactly how individual cylinder temperature control is set up using CanBus EGTs (Can TC)
Simple setup ;
1. turn on "Individual cylinder fuel correction"
2. select Indv fuel mode = "table"
3. allocate all cylinders to there corresponding Ftrim tables
4. Now you have access to each cylinder trim table, click into cylinder 1 table
5. set top X axis to engine speed rpm, Y axis to Can TC 1 (cylinder 1) and press 'Initiate Axis"
6. Now you have 0-1000 degrees on Y axis to customise your specific temp protection with RPM on top axis.
7. repeat for the rest of the fuel trim cylinders
8. repeat the same for the "individual cylinder ignition correction"
 
Note. "0" in the trim tables will not effect anything, fuel trim above desired temperature may be in the range of adding  5-15% fuel depending on temperature and RPM. Ignition trim numbers may be in the range of -2 to -15 degree trim depending on temperature limits and RPM.
 
Hope this helps anyone

that log shows Aux 3 having 0% Duty Cycle and frequency of 10Hz, are you sure the alt control is setup properly? also looks like alt control target and error aren't logged so can you go to Logging -> Setup logging and smack the Add All button down the bottom in the PC Logging tab please.
Actually I've figured it out, your ecu firmware is 6.21 which is from before alternator control was added so upgrade your firmware then reload that map from Adam

Technically possible and kind of already done with CAN Lambda detection and setup, has been mentioned before and is in the list of things to look at doing at some point in the future but no real time frame on it.

that log shows Aux 3 having 0% Duty Cycle and frequency of 10Hz, are you sure the alt control is setup properly? also looks like alt control target and error aren't logged so can you go to Logging -> Setup logging and smack the Add All button down the bottom in the PC Logging tab please.
Actually I've figured it out, your ecu firmware is 6.21 which is from before alternator control was added so upgrade your firmware then reload that map from Adam

Thanks for the log, I can reproduce the same problem you have encountered.  It appears to be related to the conversion to AFR.  Since we all use Lambda internally here I suspect we all forgot to test this updated quick trim using AFR units.  You will have to temporarily change to Lambda units (shortcut U).  I will let the software team know there is a problem but the engineer that made this change is on holiday until the middle of next week so we likely wont have a fix for a week or so.  Sorry for the inconvenience.  

When Open Loop Lambda Table is on the AFR/Lambda target is taken into account in the fuel calculation and so changing the target will change the fuel volume and so measured AFR/Lambda proportionally. This means you can adjust targets without having to retune the fuel table.

Thank you so much, this is really helpful. 

The combination of pullup resistor and the temperature sensor make a resistor divider with a fixed resistance value from 5v to the ECU Analog channel and the varying value of the temperature sensor from the ECU Analog Channel to ground. This means that if you know the pullup resistor value, the voltage it is attached to and the voltage at the ECU Analog Channel then you can calculate the resistance of the sensor.
Voltage at ECU channel = pullup voltage * sensor resistance / (sensor resistance + pullup resistance)
With some trickery this becomes:
sensor resistance = (Voltage at ECU channel * pullup resistance) / (pullup voltage - Voltage at ECU channel)
You can use this to convert your voltage calibration values to resistance calibration values and then setup the calibration in the ECU in resistance or convert it back to voltage calibration values but to suit a different pullup resistor value.
Quick bit of maths says:
141 -> 109ohm
110.2 -> 258ohm
95.2 -> 392ohm
80.2 -> 615ohm
70.5 -> 866ohm
60.8 -> 1238ohm
and so on

probably want more like 18ms if your injectors are 1/3 the size

Your log had all the runtimes from your picture in it but we need more information than that to see what is happening, add all the runtimes from Adam's picture as well please.
 

I will give it another go tomorrow, I had moved across everything it would allow me to under E throttle if you see my photo above...will see where to find what's missing
 
To clarify when the car is running the ecu will automatically log? and when it does it auto saves with a time stamp...?
 
Sorry to be a pain!

To add to your suggestion Adam you could put engine speed on the other axis, would mean you couldn't have an output of less than 0.6'kph' but would save a mathblock if you were short of them.
 

To add to your suggestion Adam you could put engine speed on the other axis, would mean you couldn't have an output of less than 0.6'kph' but would save a mathblock if you were short of them.
 

@Vaughan The only logic I could put to needing that ">=" instead of just "=" in there is aux 2 status going into fault condition which would be a higher enumerated value than active.  Some fuel pump controllers have a clamping diode in them which prevents the aux voltage going high enough so it fails the "open load" test and reports a fault.  

Had a chat to Sales and some should arrive in the states next week.

Mr. Vaughan
I took a test drive after setting
Result: Very good; Stable at around 86 degrees even during traffic jams
After all, managing with BET seemed better in my case
This summer's greatest achievement Thank you very much

Amazing
Thank you for your time. I will set it up immediately.
Thank you for the quick response of the team

Example uses the standard engine fan control and then the output is turned on if either standard fan control (ECT) says to turn on or if BET is 85deg C or over

Great, thank you Vaughan! That is great news I love the support you've given today I can't wait to spend more it getting everything set up. 
Adamw that is fishy I have all my receipts for payment etc all dated July 11th if I recall. I was told to expect about a 1-month delay due to backorder/wait.
Thank you both

Your trigger polarity is backwards, you need to swap the two wires around, I had the same issue when I followed their instructions on my own vehicle.

ah huh got it thanks heaps for your help guys il try it and let you know
Thanks again

If you are in wasted spark, you are sparking once every engine rotation. 
On end of compression /power stroke and once during exhaust stroke. 
If you now change to direct spark, you will only have one spark event per cycle. Every 720°.
If you trigger is adequate (cam sync, map sync) you engine knows where he is in that cycle and can spark before you compression tdc. 
Now let's say you set up this point to be during the exhaust stroke when you had wasted spark, it was still working properly because it was sparking 360° after anyway. 
Now that you spark only once, then you may spark on the exhaust stroke and it doesn't work. 
The best way to be sure is pull the plugs and watch with a timing light where you are related to you tdc. If it is correct but doesn't start then you may be on exhaust stroke and changing 360° may solve that. 

Thanks to you, I was able to start the car smoothly.
Thank you very much for your help.
20220809　始動.mp4

Hey THANKS! That is exactly what I needed, I just didnt know where to look for it. Much appreciated!!!!

soft warning is orange, hard is red