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Hi, I looking for some advice. I've been chasing around this idle issue especially when conditions are hot (ie; stationary traffic) especially when AC is on. 1. My target idle tends to oscillates a bit 2. When in hot traffic and AC is on. When AC kicks in RPM would undershoot way below target badly and then recovers to target with AC step up after a while. But it happens the same when AC kicks off, RPM will undershoot below target before recovering to target as well. 3. If I try to overcome this by increasing base position or ac step up table, i will get high overshoots especially during situations when the car is moving and not under idle conditions. Such as coming down to a stop, decel and clutch in to neutral. It's on closed loop DBW. Appreciate the help and advice. Throttle is a bosch motorsports 68mm Link to the logs below OneDrive

Hi, I have a problem with rough idle on my rb25. I use E85 pumpgas. I drive without engine idler it was broken when I got the engine so I run without it. Recently cleaned my injectors, fuel filter and new spark plug. The wiring harness is also new, can't find any problems with a vacuum leak either. I drive kelford cams 262/262 without vvt. The problem is the idle on around 850rpm and 2500 even throttle. Do someone have any idea? I will post a logfile later. Greetings Andreas

Hey guys Im running a Link4 G plus For some reason my s15 sr20det stalls straight after starting it. Was running mint and suddely happended out of nowhere. Few attempts later i get an fault code, 17 which is " AN V3 at GND" (Map sensor) Contacted Link techicnal support and they pretty much tried to find the problem thru teamviewer with my laptop plugged in, They deleted the error code but the problem is still there. The car keeps stalling. Any ideas on what it could be? I've tried adjusting the idle control screw and no luck.

Hello, I’m dealing with a problem I’m not sure how to address. I’m hoping to receive pointers or guide on my quest to solve my issue. Issue: On cold start, my swapped 180sx with an rb25det will crank and idle normally, but as soon as it starts warming up. There’s a subtle backfire, little pops if you will. At operating temperature, the idle begins to fluctuate up and down. Eventually, it will drip my 150A breaker at the battery and the g4+ ecu will lose power and shut off. Or it will shut off without dripping the 150A breaker and everything else stays on: radio, fuel pump, gauges, etc. Questions: 1. What may cause the ECU to turn off? 2. How to I measure voltage to the ECU? 3. Is it possible there is a short causing the current surge to drip the breaker and make the ecu behave erratic? 4. Anything I should check? Parts installed before problem began: • GTR R35 Coilpacks • Bosh donut knock sensors • PRP trigger kit • 270A alternator • LINK G4+ lambda wideband

Hello, searching for this problem like 3-4 months . My first tuned map i got was a mess. The tuner made the AC idle valve to manage the idle and the actual ISCV's duty cycle was like 10-20%. The car was boosting alright ,not any boost hesitation or behaviors like boost leak. When another tuner made my final map we fixed and changed many things so the ISCV duty cycle went to 65% to hold the desired idle. The problem is that since then i have enough boost leak of this valve. The stock ECU let's the valve open when you cruising until some RPMs or TP position(no idea specifically). In particular moment with G4+ is impossible to make it work like this because i did everything in parameters of ISCV adjustments. The situation it's tested and 100% i have boost leak from there. Is there any other way to fix this problem or i need to install a non-return valve in this air hose to eliminate this problem?

Hi, I am still at the initial set up phase and slowly learning my way round the Link software so would appreciate some help. I have been trying to set the idle and engine warm up parameters and noticed that the Idle Status is showing "Hold - Speed" on a number of occasions during the engine runs when the car was stationary in the garage. Thought it must be a faulty speed input or noise on the connection to the ECU but if I examine the Speed Input parameter (connected to D1, A-30 on the Link Storm ECU), when viewing the log, there is no visible change to the parameter when the Hold - Speed status is active. I have attached a log taken during the latest engine run (Log 220505 Idle Check) when the Speed Lockout was set to Off but the Hold - Speed status still occurred. The Hold - Speed status appears to be triggered when the engine speed increases above idle, is there any other trigger for the Hold - Speed status? and if not, what could be causing the ECU to activate the Hold Speed? I have only had the car out on the road once since the engine has been installed and the road speed input did work correctly on that occasion (Log 220410 Test Run). I am aware that there are a lot of issues still to sort on the engine & tuning and any advice on how to proceed would be welcome. I also include the current Map (Map 220505 TPS set) - note the TPS on the idle check log shows the throttle at 0.7%, this was because I had not recalibrated the TPS after adjusting the throttle stop on the throttle body - it has since been calibrated. Thank you in advance for any and all advice & suggestions. Ian 220505 Idle Check.llg220410 Test Run.llg220505 TPS set.pclr

Hi there, I have a link atom X on my citroen c2 1.6 vts. It is running individual throttle bodies and is therefore mapped using alpha n. When the car is initially started it runs some strange timing settings in the background for around 4 seconds and only idles at 500rpm. After 4 seconds it switches to the table in the map and idles fine at around 950rpm. I have been informed by my tuner that this is something built into the firmware. I would like to know if there is some way of making the ecu run the timing table in the map straight away so it fires up and idles correctly instantly? Just for extra info the car is using an aftermarket crank sensor for the link ecu because the OEM one wouldn't pick up the first tooth and was therefore useless. Also the car has no idle control in terms of air control so idle control is achieved through timing at all temperature ranges. Thankyou for any help that you can provide!

Hi All, Currently running a bosch 68mm throttle body from a merc. And only recently it's been behaving erratic. TPS1&2 seems to fluctuate when there is no command (APS or AC/FAN stepups) example on idle. But under command it behaves fine when AC/FAN stepups are commanded. In the log DC motor seems to pulsate as well. Just wondering could this be a sign it's failing? Log and tune in OneDrive link as the file is too big to be attached. ECU is FuryX. https://1drv.ms/u/s!Al7C1wyXCi4aqiu-oHjrBU1OB5bd?e=M3nFtF

Iv just got my 4age started up, seems to be running very rich, blacks out the plugs instantly. And also really struggled to idle, it climbs then falls, unplugging the idle valve makes no change, but putting 12v to it you can hear it open up. Il attach the start up map and maybe someone can see something wrong in the map? I'm very new to ecu's and tuning so don't know what to look for Thanks 4age 20v 2.1.pclr

I am having a idle control problem that seems to only show up after and longer drive. Attached are links to the log and pclr file. After a drive that lasted about an hour today we stopped at a stop light and the idle dropped enough to shut the engine off and its been running rough ever since. This is not the first time and it seems to go away after it cools again. Please take a look at the log and see if your seeing something I'm missing, which is very likely. Thanks, https://www.dropbox.com/s/o9r0c10n3y4zcky/Idle Trouble Log.llg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/xw7t36gq85fw1dd/Idle Trouble.pclr?dl=0

Hello guys is it possible to control idle up using the iscv instead of the ac idle up valve on an st205 (3sgte rev3)? Thank you in advance.

Hello! I´ve been having issues with my idle on my 4g63 (eclipse 1993) So I´ve been working with the ISC on closed loop, I have the RPM lockout higher than my targets and for the most part it seems fine however every once in a while it falls under 800rpm and normally stalls if I dont hit the gas pedal, I´ve changed all the setting the AFR is stable doesnt fluctuate however it always seems to have the same problem. the logs are atatched the stall is almost at the end idle stall.llg

As the title, i installed a link g4 plugin on a completely stock 3SGE and set up the throttle sensors for the ethrottle. I am using the stock MAF on the basemap included in the tuning software. The throttle sensors and MAF sensors make logical sense, which has got me confused as to why the car wont idle. It will start up, and can rev a little bit, but when you get off the accelerator, the car stalls. Tune file attached. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks. 002 system.pclr

I have a modified Mini R53 engine (aftermarket Thumper TPR2 head, TVS 900 supercharger and Schrick Cam) for which I recently had a G4+ installed. For reference, additionally to the ECU the following components were also installed prio to the tune: AEM X-Series Breitband UEGO AFR wideband controller 30-0300A CatCams 469 cam 550 injectors smaller SC pulley (60mm, coming from 70mm) The car was running fine with the OEM ECU and previous parts. The tune it got on the G4+ + having the new parts installed obviously helped it a lot and it is also running well overall and I am really happy so far, BUT the way the engine now comes back to idle after coming off the throttle is quite odd IMHO. IDLE Questions The following idle issues occur (please bear with me as I am firstly a noob to ECU tuning altogether and my technical/engineering background is limited - so basically some of the worst credentials to be doing a deep dive into this whole topic in general): When coming off higher engine loads (throttle position usually > 50% & always > 3,000 RPM) and letting the engine "run out" (throttle position = 0) idle rpm drops well under 1,000rpm and the engine almost dies/stalls (EML light shortrly lights up as when it stalls). It then feels like it tries to counteract that by reving up shortly with a short "blip" up to 2.000 rpm. The engine/ECU keeps doing that over and over again if I let it. When @ < 3,000rpms and laying off the thottle it only slightly dips under 1,000rpm and then also only slightly goes up as above but only once and only up to about 1.200rpm - and then is stops doing it (as opposed to the above described behaviour). With this I could live - the afore mentioned issue #1 is a real pain though... When in lower rpms (<3,000rpm) and during mellow driving / cruising and changing gears and as soon as I lay off the throttle, the rpms shortly "blip" up or hover before I change into another gear. I've tried looking at idle control but can't seem to find any anomalies. Could it be realted to the wideband sensor/controler? (.pclr file and log attached for reference) Knock Count question Also, I've gotten a global knock count of 10 on my last logged drive (including spirited revving up to the limiter) Is this something to worry about or can I disregard this? I'm told these knocks can be disregarded - if so, the only question is how can I tell when it's becoming critical? For me personally, any number > 5 in my global knock count after a short drive is critical or am I being to picky about it? Log 2019-05-6 8;39;17 pm.llg Thank you in advance for any input you might have on how I could get this sorted out (specially the above mentioned idle issues) Cheers

hi, just recently purchased, g4 link plugin for my evo4 , everything else running well, just the part during the AC kicked in , and disengage. the rpm will drop till 4xx rpm. Even without the AC on, just slightly press the throttle, and let go, the rpm also will drop .. i would apperciate if i can get any pointers on my settings. here i attach my PCL . and Log thanks in advance! EVO SAVE.pclr evo 4.llg

Good morning. There is a vibration problem when idling, so I leave a message. The vehicle is 06 WRX STi Symptom. I feel the vibration of the idling increases as the engine gets hot. I am not a professional tuner, but the prescription I felt was good is... 1. Adjust idling air-fuel ratio from 14.7 to 14.0 2. adjust idling target rpms upwards from the normal temperature. 3. Change the engine fan rotation temperature from 93 degrees to 90 degrees (this method will make the oil temperature appear to be supercooled on the DEFI oil gauge, which is installed at oil pressure switch instead) I am currently using a closed loop idle E-throttle, but I can not remember the idea of catching vibration problems ... Please let me know your various know-how Thank you.

Hi folks. First time Link user here and ive had no issues tuning with it so far. Trying to polish up the details now but i'm really struggling to get the closed loop idle control working after so many attempts. 'Idle status' always shows 'speed NOT selected' The ethrottle target is always 'table 1' surely this should change to ethrottle target at some point? The ethrottle target table 1 is set to '0' at closed throttle and base idle position is '2.5' to give an idle speed of 1k rpm. No amount of increasing or reducing the error by altering the idle setpoint will make it respond or 'control' All it will do is perform a % increase when the coolat fan comes on, and it jumps to this setting with no issues. How does it know whether or not to look at table 1 in an idle condition? Would uploading a short log file help work out whats going on or are there specific settings i should check? The help file doesnt have a lot of detail on this topic. Cheers!

Hi All, I have an issue where the engine fan step seems to be always active regardless on weather engine fan 1 or 2 are on. I noticed when the engine fans came on the idle dipped quite low and nearly stalled so I adjusted the engine fan step while they were off and noticed the engine speed changing.. this should obviously not be the case.. is there anything I'm missing? I am using the latest software and firmware, the ecu is a plugin WRXLink 3-4

Yes im back again requesting more info, Can i please ask the specific ethrottle operation in regards to an engine returning to idle and how the base throttle plate position is calculated. Is it taking the ethrottle target table setting and adding it to the base idle position? My problem is i can generate a fairly stable idle with closed loop isc with the ethrottle and gratuitous use of idle ignition control but if the engine is revved the base position generates a stall as its too low, If it is a small say 300 rpm rev the throttle plate does not drop back as low as it does from a big rev watching it in the tp main setting. Prop gain and anti stall gain can be set anywhere from .5 their max (5 gain / 25 anti stall) and dont make a lick of diff. Setting my base idle target % high enough to stop a stall results in an idle way too high. When i ran a solenoid isc it seemed to drop to my set base pos then slowly drop down to the idle speed but this is different on the ethrottle settings. Any advice appreciated - again its a 50 year engine with a myriad of superchargers and modifications and different manufacturers parts so there is no baseline as such but it is 1.6 litres, 4 cyl and using a mini cooper r53 ethrottle body so all ethrottle body settings are r53 and the tbody tracks perfect. Thanks BR

VE is definitely way different with alpha-n at idle rpm and AC on vs off, and short of a full 4D fuel table I don't see a supported method of working around it. This is the right trim to use, but it's locked to injector millis and thereby traditional fueling. In modeled alpha-n: AC turns on increasing demand.Engine goes lean with stall compensation via IAC solenoid.Engine dies.By adding 32.5% to my idle cells in a 4D fuel map I've worked around this, accomplishing stable lambda across AC state transitions; but this should be a supported use case. Additional context: http://forums.linkecu.com/index.php?/topic/7096-idle-with-accessories/

I have a Seadoo GTX 260 iS. I installed a racing cam and ensured correct timing with engine and cam locked. Starting and WOT, the Jetski runs perfect. However, at idle it runs at 1000rpm when it should be about 1800. I was told the throttle open % may need to be increased at idle. How do I turn off the default idle % and set it manually thru G4? ...Then ensure its saved during future use?