ClintBHP

Are you sure your not 360 degrees out ?

Let me know if we can help further were in the UK 01474 850666

In a piggy back situation I wire the old EML light into the Link on a DI so you know if there is something wrong with the OE ECU and then just wire the Dash to an Aux Out configured as the CEL  from the link.

Should read same as the BAP sensor with the engine not running.

Barometric sensor, press F12 and look in the General Tab:
 

1342 Firing order so 1&4 and 3&2

Yes assign a DI for the task then in the AntiLag setup instead of 'Always On' Select the DI from the dropdown.
 

To get the information you need add these to your logging:  
AFR/Lambda Target Lambda 1 CL Lamdba Fuel Corr %

Clint, 
Thanks for your advice, the new Lambda sensor did the trick, Lambda is spot on again!  
Great service from BHP too.
 

This can happen if the mixture is very rich or the sensor is failing, remove the lambda from the exhaust check the sensor for fouling and see if its the same in free air.
Try and new sensor.

You have to hit enter after changing them

You have to hit enter after changing them

We use the ESR 10 Series, we also found they are so fast that you can double them up if you need more amps and they shut down if over current so if one fails no issue, we have not had one fail yet.

We run Monsoons as a Piggy Back ECU leaving the OE ECU in the car and then take control of engine functions with the Monsoon.
Talk to the dealer who said they can do it as to their method, piggy back solutions work can very well.

Ok thats starting to look better, the main issue now seems to be that you have very poor vacuum, do you have a leak, or is the MAP sensor reading incorrectly ?
 
 

You are not getting into idle ignition control as your have it set for below 700rpm, change this to something like 1500 for now.
I would, turn off or unplug you ISCV and then set the idle screw on your throttle so it can idle.
Then set your idle ignition up, currently you have it set to enable below 700rpm, I would raise this to 1500rpm  then tweak the table, it is not uncommon to have zero degrees in the centre (0)  and then negative degrees towards the left hand side, but all cars are different so you will need to tweak this, once you can rev the engine and it falls back quickly to the centre (0) 
Then you can turn on your ISCV back on and set that up, but even with just idle ignition control it should be fairly stable.

Look at Ignition - Idle Ignition Control its the lockout there we are talking about.
You can add Idle ignition Control to your logging view to watch when this becomes active.

You are quite rich there, have you tried tuning the table a little, I am assuming your on petrol/gasoline as your have 14.7 as Stoich, your dropping close to the 11's I would be surprised if your plugs are not black and misfiring.
I also see that the main change in the map is injector deadtime, this looks very wrong as the idea is that as the battery voltage drops the speed of the injector changes and requires more opening time to keep the same AFR, however as soon as your deadtime changes you get dumped into 0.7 Lambda.
I would change the deadtime so 12, 13, 14 & 15 volts are the same at say 0.7ms (doesnt matter for now if this is correct) then I would tune the map so you are targeting nearer 0.95 Lambda, then as the voltage drops trim the deadtime map so Lambda stays the same as when you tuned it.
 

Short answer:
All injectors take an amount of time to open (and close) that needs to be known, this is commonly somewhere between 0.7 and 1ms at 14v. 
 
So so from a fast injector to a slow injector that’s 0.4ms difference.
At idle when you may only have a 2ms plulse for ideal idle that 0.4v is 20% but higher up the Rev range it’s far less so will affect ARF much less.
you should be able to maintain the same AFR no matter what the battery voltage, and that’s the reason your idle is bad your AFR is dropping into plug fouling territory.
 
 

You can not only use it for data logging but auto tune function too.
Use the 0-5v output from the innovate and put that on a free AnVolt input on the Link.  Set this input to Lambda, there is a Innovative LM1 Calibration in the drop down list but check the calibration has not changed by comparing the Innovative LM1 manual with your MTX-L manual.
If it has changed then choose one of the simple cal tables, as the innovate has a linear output and set the calibration according to the innovate manual.

I haver found correctly mapped VVTI can make a lot of difference.
Glad you got to the bottom of the issue.

Ok then they need to check they have it set to the correct AUX out, one side of the solenoid should have 14v and the other side should goto the Pin on the ECU that corresponds with the AUX output that is configured in the Link ECU. What ECU do you have ?
All the outputs are short circuit protected and very rarely fail (I have never seen a failure) so I would think this is definitely a configuration issue rather than a hardware issue, however you can always move the VVT to one of the other AUX (needs to be AUX1 - AUX4) out to check if the driver has failed.
BUT please get them to press F12 with the engine running and scroll to the right and select VVT and send you a picture of the screen so you can post it here.
 

A simple test anyone can do is with the engine stopped run an Aux out test on the valve and you will hear it click, if it does click then there is probably a mechanical issue with the engine; If it does not click then you have an ECU/Wiring issue.
A more in depth test is to press F12 with the engine running and look at the actual VVT Data, which should show actual angles if the settings are correct.
 

Hi All AnTemp inputs on the Atom and Monsoon have internal 1Kohm pull-up's in hardware which you cannot switch off in software.
All ECU's Storm and above have configurable pull-up resistors.
You can select a Cal table from the Sensor type to input your own calibration if none of the defined ones meet your needs.
The only issue is when you try and piggy back then you need to use an AnVolt input.
 

Glad you have sussed that CAN issue, these things can be tricky and testing at times, have a great weekend