koracing

No, it's the same single tooth with two different magnetic pickups 180 apart in the distributor housing.


The tall magnetic pickup is the crank position, and the lower ones have a single tooth under the 24 tooth wheel that passes by them.
As far as I'm aware, Toyota used this same basic trigger setup for most vehicles with distributors from mid 80s to the late 90s.  Even the non-vvt 2JZ with COP is still a 12 tooth crank (which would be 24 tooth on a cam), with two single sync reluctors 180 deg appart off the intake cam if my memory serves me.
4AGZE trigger setup is the exact same as distributor 3SGTE -- the same offsets work great also BTW.  

Haltech dash has configurable bitrate, they are fine on the same bus.  

CAN is a digital signal - just 0's & 1's going down the wire.  This means the ecu always receives exactly what the controller is outputting.  With an analog output the controller outputs a voltage in reference to a common (or sometimes not common!) ground. Very few wideband controllers have a differential ground completely isolated from power ground, so even if they have a dedicated analog ground, there is still an influence from load on the power/chassis ground.  Any offset between the ground the wideband is referencing compared to the ECU ground reference will offset the measured signal.  You can usually observe this with an analog controller by for example turning on the fan or head lights and you will see the reported AFR change.  Some of the cheap ones you can even see the wideband heater turning on and off in the analog signal.  A further issue is most of them have a very poorly calibrated DAC - i.e the documentation may say for example it outputs 2.5V at 1.00 lambda, but if you test it you find it is actually only 2.3V. 

An Alternator Control function has been made and should be available in the next major release version.

Oh @Ducie54 I have thought about this many times. I know this has been done by oems before and sometimes in Motorsport applications. The power consumed by running the AC compressor was less than the power gained by cooling the charge temps. Before I go crazy I’m going to try and shroud my IC heat exchangers better. Right now they Are stuffed under each head light in the sides of the bumper. I 3D printer air diverters that bolt in place of my foglights to force air into the sides of the bumper and then the air passes through the exchanger and exhausts through the fender liner. Theory was the vacuum created on the front wheel well while driving at speed would naturally try to draw air through it. 

@Ducie54 here is the backside of one of the heat exchangers with the fender liner removed. I have a mirror version on the opposite side of the car. The exchangers are dual pass and the water flows through them in series.

Yeah its not going to work wired like that, you've created a path to back feed.  I've attached a video to try to explain better.  
 
Backfeed 2.mp4

Undid the lug for the star ground on my head.  Found the coil ground wire and then redid the terminal for the ECU grounds. Just twisted a wire to the coil ground wire to extend it and put it to a different spot on the head.  Now the car revs up in neutral just fine.  I just revved it to 6000rpm to take scopes. Here are the updated scopes.
4000rpm new ground.llg 5000rpm new ground.llg 6000rpm new ground.llg
Before when I did this my log showed trigger errors climb like my +25 each time I tried to rev.  Now not 1 error. The log while I took scopes
 
with new ground.llg

This should be you have to hold button for 3 seconds before it starts or stops the engine but any press of less than 3s will kill the power.

oof, you guys should add a button or function to do that automatically lol. 

Fixed it!  I'll work on smoothing out the timing table, which I think will get rid of the waviness.  Otherwise it's running well now.  Thanks to everyone for all the help!
 

Alternative for start prime on G4x - use a virtual aux to trigger it as shown here:

As I said it's a bit of a balancing act.  You can also play with advance and retard at idle to change the fueling requirement to increase or decrease require PW.  Also as rpm rises, the duty cycle for a given PW also increases which means less likelihood of overrunning a regulator and so potentially lower differential pressure versus idle and thus possibly requiring more PW.  Changing idle speed from 800rpm to 1200 rpm is a 50% increase in injection events per given unit of time.  Figuring out what the minimum stable pulse width an injector can run can help as well so one can enter it into the minimum pw field in the fuel setup and not allow the injector to go into a range where the injector would operate randomly (aka "go random").  All trade offs and there's a threshold of what does and does not work for a given injector and driver type.  

To assign the Aux 1 to boost control in G4x - you will first need to enable boost control (open or closed loop) and then assign the output in that menu.  In the G4x you don't assign outputs at the pin itself.

For example: 

Yes all you would need is CANH and CANL to connect to the AEMnet can + and - output from the X series wideband.

I still think it would be useful to be able to know that the mixture map is being applied with the ST corr. and the LT corr. accounted for.  I'd happily just use the LTT map if there was a way to apply it's learned values directly to the ve table of my choice. Like a copy and paste special mulitply by percent as well as if it was possible to use one or two LTT tables to get the axis values to match the VE table in question directly.

Alright @Adamw, where do I send beer? haha...that did it! It runs incredibly smooth now. Thank you so much for your help as always and thank you as well @0x33 for your input. It ran great without break up on 2.0ms dwell time at 14v so I'm gonna keep it there unless I have issues on E85. 
 

I still think it would be useful to be able to know that the mixture map is being applied with the ST corr. and the LT corr. accounted for.  I'd happily just use the LTT map if there was a way to apply it's learned values directly to the ve table of my choice. Like a copy and paste special mulitply by percent as well as if it was possible to use one or two LTT tables to get the axis values to match the VE table in question directly.

I assume you went with the Racer X rail and their bosch regulator option -- I always advise my customers against that regulator option and just stick with a proven adjustable regulator like the Aeromotive 13109.  Yeah they cost more and you have to buy fittings and lines, etc.  They *always* work. 
A lot of your adjustments and trims are a bit... different... than I'm used to seeing and I can only guess the fuel pressure being so high is a big part of it.  Your dead times didn't match the information I have exactly from Injector dynamics website, but it wasn't far enough off to make that large of a difference.  Is your engine a Gen2?  I woudl start as a safe base of about 14 degrees of timing at 14-15psi boost (100kpa boost).  If it's 3rd gen or higher I would start a couple degrees less as a base.  

Set up that output on a custome GP PWM output pin.  then test different frequencies until you can audibly hear it clicking from 15% duty cycle up to 80% duty cycle or so and that's the frequency you should use.  This is typically what I do to test the frequency response range of a given solenoid.  Normally you get a wider more linear range at lower frequencies than at higher frequencies.  Most solenoids will work pretty well at 20-30Hz, but test it like I stated to find the range that solenoid likes to operate in.  Same test can be done for almost any 2 wire PWM solenoid for any other purpose as well.

One thing I recommend doing with the LTT is to try and set the axis break points to match your fuel table break points as much as possible in the regions where you want to have the LTT active.  I wish the LTT table was as large as the fuel tables, but it is not.

Have changed to 0.745 which matches most of the rest of the sample maps, corrected any other sample maps which were also different, will be in the next release

Man, it really makes you doubt the quality when the sensor manufacturer quotes a MAP sensor calibration in gauge pressure...
Anyhow, assuming they were at sea level on a nice day with the baro sitting at exactly 100kpa when they made up that calibration, you should set up the ecu like the pic below:

 
 
 

I know this is becoming a bit of a blogpost, but I've managed to get it to work flawlessly now.
This is just for anyone that is interested in getting a few pops and bangs on a gearchange/downshift without having fuel cut off all of the time, and, with some overlapping 4D and fuel cut ignition tables.

Disclaimer: I am not a tuner, simply a novice that is taking a bit of interest.


Above are my settings for this.
Cutting the long story even longer:
The fuel cut is on, but it takes 2 seconds to initiate because of the "activation delay" parameter.
Within these 2 seconds, we want the 4D Ign table to take over, but only for these 2 seconds, and then we want to return to "Normal over-run fuel cut timing" after these 2 seconds are over.
This is activated by Virtual aux 1.
Virtual aux 1 is "On" when: MAP > 40kPa & Timer 1 <= 2 Seconds & ECT > 70 Degrees C

We have Timer 1 on virtual aux 2 that activates when TPS%<8 (Same as fuel-cut)
We have Timer 1 set to 3 seconds (3 seconds is arbitrary, as long as it is >2 seconds, we are okay)

The 2 seconds on the timer are important, as we don't want any overlap (Although I'm not sure if it would make any difference when there is no fuel being injected). Once the timer is above 2 seconds, the "Pops and bangs" in the 4D table switch off, and the overrun fuel cut takes over.
It is also important to have the polarity for the timer as "Reset on Off/On edge", as we want the 4D to only activate when we take our foot off the throttle. The "Off/on edge" means that the timer resets when VA2 starts.

Below is the time plot for this, which should explain it better than I can on how this works. (Please note, pops and bangs 4D is called "Chav mode").


Shout out to @koracingand @VaughanI've learned a hell of a lot from this, so I appreciate all of your support.

Kind regards,

Beefy

Just take a quick look at the quick start guides for each where it shows the pinout of the A and B loom connectors.  Most of the differences will be on the b-loom connector but there is an extra CAN 1 connection on the side of the case as well on the Xtreme:
StormX: http://www.linkecu.com/documentation/StormXQuickstartGuideG4X.pdf
XtremeX: http://linkecu.com/documentation/XtremeXQuickstartGuide.pdf

Some of the differences: Additional analog input channels, DBW or E-Throttle capabiilty, additional temp sensor input, additional outputs, dual can bus vs. single, etc.

Which model ecu are you wiring in? 

Typically you will wire the positive of a inductor/reluctor 2 wire sensor to the signal input and the negative to a ground to a signal ground or sensor ground. 
Also it may be more approriate to ask questions about G4X ecu wiring in the G4X section, not the G4+ section, though your question would apply in either ecu case.