kaptainballistik

Something like below would result in true (1) when the average of TC1-4 exceeds 800.

You may have just solved an issue with my BRZ.... 

You may have just solved an issue with my BRZ.... 

I swapped out the GC8 engine bay harness for this. I tried not to shortcut anything because ironically I wanted to avoid the problem I'm having. Most of the connectors are new OEM, deutsch or better and wiring is all tefzel, heat shrunk in raychem. The bulkhead connector sits where the battery used to be near the washer bottle. 
When I first started trying to diagnose the issue (to help rule out the harness below) I wiggled/disconnected and visually inspected the wires in the engine bay and there was nothing showing up in logs. 
I didn't interrogate the wiring at the ECU, however, the DBW TB is now directly wired (wires going through the firewall to the passenger footwell to the ECU).
I haven't attempted to back probe the TPS yet. If it was a 5V supply issue should the other sensors also be playing up? Seems only TPS Sub plays up.
Note: Pictures below are before the ECU/harness was upgraded to accept DBW.

 
Would it worthwhile opening up the ECU and checking the wiring here?

May sound dumb.. but check the ECU PLUG side pin (if you are using the factory ECU plug) to make sure its "wiping" correctly on the ECU pin for the DBW or 5V Pin.

Drove me Sane..... 

Poked it with a pin so it wiped correctly and random stalling went away...

 

I wouldnt bother with 60-2, but a 36-1 or the RX8 one would be noticeably better than the 12T S6.  The main difference is how much drift you get under high crank acceleration.  With some basic testing I done many years ago, gong from 2 crank teeth to 12T was a massive difference, going from 12T to 24T was a good improvement again.  Going from 24 to 36T I couldnt really tell any difference with the gear I was testing with.  

The "usual" method is Run the Vacuum pump without a Motor feed as in theory you are never on vacuum.

(and you hide the pump up behind the dash so no one finds it....Especially on group N Evo's before the VO brakes were available..)
 

I had similar difficulties with my v10 Sti.  I had to switch to traditional fuel mode and i had to add quite a bit of fun to get it to start.  Don't forget to verify your engine timing with a light.  Good luck!

The G4X supports 10kHz on its inputs, so you can just use the ABS sensors as they are.
It's only the G4+, with its slower processor, which can struggle with input frequency when the processor is very busy (8 cylinders, fully sequential fuel & ignition, 4x VVT etc)

found the problem haha

In G4X if you want to do complex stuff with more control dimensions you can use a GP PWM (or more) to control an axis of your function.  Example below that would achieve one part of the functionality that kaptainballistik asks for above, where the retard gets reduced above 600C.  You could use the same "% aggression" on your cut table and boost table. 
So to explain the flow here, we have a GP PWM table to vary our "aggression" based on EGT and RPM.  We have 100 where we want full effect and 0 where we want no effect, I have an RPM axis in this table because you usually have 0 cut and retard below a certain RPM and TP.  
We than have this % Aggression on the axis of our antilag retard table.  At 100% aggression we are operating in the far right hand column so are going to get 50deg retard below 20%TP and if say our EGT creeps up to 595deg, then our aggression will drop to 50% which would reduce retard to 25deg. 

 

Inlet cam from a 06 on WRX/STI is what Will work with the 3 pin Hall effect sensor. These use 3 groves machined into the rear of the cam, where the Earlier "JDM" style Reluctor cams use 3x cast protrusions.

Yep, the "front" external trigger off the intake cam is trigger 2, on the JDM motor you have, and all sensors are the 2 wire type.

And correct, On the 2.5 the LH Intake cam has only one sensor  and this is assigned Trigger 2  ....and does not have the "cam wheel" trigger.

note: not ALL JDM motors that are pre 2007 have Halll effect /3pin sensors on the cams, Externally the giveaway is the longer spark plugs and internally the cams are Hollow. 

All the crank sensors are 2 pin, so that's the easy part....

There is a thread on here about it, I just cant remember which one it was!

 
so... rewire the LH Cam (Bank 2) trigger to be a 2 wire and connect to the Cam Wheel end trigger.

Wire in a New AVCS/Rear cam trigger

Rewire Bank one/Drivers to use the 2 wire.

Make/buy a 8mm thick alloy adaptor for the DBW.

sorted.

Rip skids

The DBW uses M6 bolts where a Cable throttle uses M8 bolts. Multiple options here... Plug and redrill mainifold, add inserts to manifold , weld and redrill manifold, Drill out DBW and change to caphead bolts (Personally haven't tried that) ,  use an adaptor plate. Just be careful about the passages behind the Throttle body face are compatible with the DBW unit.

The 3 piece manifolds can swap over between the 2 and 2.5  motors and are otherwise identical if you want the easy way out. The One piece intake is meant more for all out performance on a group N / Twinscroll Motor and trades off some bottom end power for upper midrange. If the TGV's are annoying, just remove the butterflies.

Just be careful about the CAM sensors, They are the reluctor  2 wire type so there is a little bit of wiring fiddling required ( which you probably already know. Especially if the new motor has the "external" cam Angle sensor AND the In head cam (AVCS) head sensors.

Cheating way to do the swap is to swap the intake cams for a 06 Intake cam if you hate wiring.....  and then all the 06 sensors bolt in!

If the car is like the Australian cars, the big giveaway for a ADM "07" are the Steel front suspension arms AND a R180 diff! . 
 

If you have the COP coils, Can you stick them into another car to try them? 

For some reason the Link can "drive" coils that on a STD ecu wont even work!

Ask me how I know this...

I have a spare laptop just for my ecus (was running a Motec M48).
I have the exact same issue trying to run PC Link on my Windows XP lap Top.
It will download the Installer from Links website but once downloaded, when you click the icon I get the same error message "...not a valid win32 application".
No big deal just hoped someone had a simple solution
 

Just wanted to thank everybody for the input, car runs now! Turns out the 14v source I tapped into must have been weak. Ran it from somewhere else and now everything fires up smooth!
 

You could do the WOT hold at power up, or set up something like your AC switch to clear faults.  From memory with E-throttle faults you have to power cycle ign after clearing the fault.  

 
Load in the attached logging set.
E-throttle diag.llsx

code 84 Aux9/10 E-Throttle IC Over Temperature / Under Voltage isn't just over temperature, it can also be triggered by undervoltage. I occasionally see it when I have to crank for too long and pump the throttle which would most likely be an under voltage condition.

Given that it is all on the crank and assuming the missing tooth is placed midway between ignition events I don't see any reason to use trigger 2 when you can use a multitooth/missing pattern.

That's probably an @Adamw question as none of my personal cars rev that high and I haven't played with one that does.

No I wouldnt expect anything special is needed.  CDI ignition on methanol cars makes USB comms less reliable but Ive never had any issues with inductive ignition.  

Well, Ill stick to 2x injectors then and Go 3x when you have it sorted  

And another (possibly)  silly question... Is the Link 4x able to map to 10k RPM? and is there any idiosyncrasies on the trigger filters  I will need to be aware of? The cars current ECU maps stop at 8000 RPM and then Fudges the rest...  

I'm Hoping to use direct fire with NO wasted spark to attempt to limit electrode wear.

(Current ECU is powered by a miniature Dinosaur...... Well, It was cutting edge 27 years ago! )

Just reporting back, adjusted the air gap in the CAS and was able to get an rpm signal and the car started. 
The gap was around 1mm before adjustment, adjusted to 0.40mm and that got it to around 0.34v @300rpm
Cheers guys for the help! 

Drop Trigger 1 threshold to .5v below 500rpm