Wildt267

Take a look at the WRX11 base map, the charge temp table in that was reasonably well calibrated, it was a JDM sti with the air temp sensor in the manifold next to the throttle body.

Thank you very much, that's very helpful!
 

The gauge will see lambda and multiplier for what ever the manufactured decided and show it to you in AFR, because you are reading the signal coming from the gauge I would just tell the ecu stoich is 14.7. Because you are actually seeing the equivalent of lambda multiplier by 14.7 (guessing AEM is using 14.7), just run them as pump gas. 

Yes, most of our premium fuel here doesnt have any ethanol as there is no ethanol production here.  I couldnt guarantee our pump gas does actually have a stoich ratio of 14.7 however, that is more a guess.  
There is no calculation you can do for injection timing, you can only find the best instant experimentally.  Injector location, injection duration, spray pattern, valve timing and intake resonance mean there is not even really a rule of thumb.  If you cant see a trend in AFR when varying injector timing at fast idle then it probably means it is of little consequence with your hardware.  
Our V10 base map is quite old and from before my time, from early G4+, or possibly even Vipec days, so I dont know much about the car it came from, how long we had it or how well it was tuned, but our V11 map was tuned by me personally and I drove it around a lot during CAN development so I do know that one fairly well.  I ended up at 470deg in that also, but I do remember there being FA difference from injection timing on that car.    
 
Use the knock settings from our V11 base map.  The knock control was well optimized in that and worked best at 8KHz (EJ207).  An EJ257 might require a different frequency but the bulk of the settings will likely be very close.  
 
Im not sure for the V10 base map, the V11 base map was from a 2.0.  We get a fairly even mix of both here at a guess, we have a relaxed trade agreement with Japan so the vast majority of 2nd hand cars sold here are imported used from Japan.  The 2.0JDM version has a reputation as a stronger engine and compared to our NZ new ones (based on AUDM I think) they have a few other desirable features such as push button start, 6spd instead of 5, bigger brakes, etc.  

G4X Atom, Monsoon and Storm only have one CAN Bus, G4X Xtreme and Fury have 2 CAN buses, all G4X plugins have the hardware for 2 CAN buses but when the vehicle the plugin is intended for has a CAN Bus connected to the ECU one of those 2 CAN buses is used to interface with the vehicle's factory system leaving one spare CAN bus for aftermarket devices.
The WRX V10 plugin does not have a CAN bus set aside for OE functionality and so you should have 2 available CAN buses.

I totally agree, this would make sense. Also, a long term trim function for Wastegate duty cycle would be great. 

To make the CE light on the dash do more than just the standard CE light functionality you will want to set the CE Light output to another Virtual Aux and set up a gp output to control the actual Aux Output that is connected to the light in the dash and then use that gp output to either output the state of the CE Light virtual Aux or your preferred output to indicate immobiliser state.
 

I've often considered doing this and suggested it to customers after having one customer's car get stolen years ago on an ecu that did not have the ability to do some of these more advanced functional lockouts.  The scene on how to start the vehicle in MadMax Fury road with sequence of switches comes to mind. 
How would you theoretically set up the CE light to flash while active - then go steady when inactive?  Would this also be able to work with standard fault code functions that may exist when it powers up (say due to a faulty sensor)?

If your car has cruise control you could set up something like "hold the set button and brake pedal together for more than 5 seconds" to disarm the antitheft, if it doesn't have cruise you could do something like throttle pedal >50% and brake pedal together for more than *sec.  I would also set up something like the CE light to flash when antitheft is active so you know when you have successfully met the conditions.

I was actually considering using the nfc approach as well. Your suggestion for using a virtual output was very helpful. I haven’t utilized those yet but I’ll figure it out. Thank you for the help

It is a 2006 Usdm Subaru Sti using the 104x plug in.
 

I had similar difficulties with my v10 Sti.  I had to switch to traditional fuel mode and i had to add quite a bit of fun to get it to start.  Don't forget to verify your engine timing with a light.  Good luck!

Technically possible and kind of already done with CAN Lambda detection and setup, has been mentioned before and is in the list of things to look at doing at some point in the future but no real time frame on it.

I suspect it would have been pretty difficult to find that specific post using the search, I found it easy since I knew the symptoms and name of the damaged file.  I just linked to it to save me typing the same replay again - forums are good for that.   

unfortunately not but that's a good idea.  I just replaced the coils with a new Oem set.
That was an excellent idea, thank you. Sure enough i'm seeing some negative values where there shouldn't be.  Didn't catch that in the logs as i was so focused on everything else.

Have you seen the Engine Speed ROC runtime value? It might work as some approximation of engine roughness.

If you have the COP coils, Can you stick them into another car to try them? 

For some reason the Link can "drive" coils that on a STD ecu wont even work!

Ask me how I know this...

It is a "V4" G1.  The trigger sub board is for the early subaru EJ20 trigger which has 6 teeth on the crank and 7 teeth on the cam.  Im pretty sure all the EJ25's have a different 36-2-2-2 on the crank and 3 tooth cam so this wont work (im not 100% sure of that, I have really only seen EJ25 turbo engines). 
It can be tuned with a laptop but you will need a seriallink device to communicate with it. 
You will find a user manual for it in the G1 forum section.  
Will only work with this circled crank/cam wheel:
 

You have the fuel stoichiometric ratio set to 14.1:1 in your tune and the AEM uses a fixed ratio of 14.65:1.  
Best to use Lambda on both then you never need to worry about converting between air fuel ratios.   

Anyone keen on the new version, it is available for download since yesterday.

The reason we haven't is because you're not necessarily tuning your main fuel table with the CLL Long term trims, you might be tuning your charge temperature table or warmup enrichment or any other part of your fuel tune that you can focus your CLL on and setup your Long term trim table to suit. Just throwing everything into the main fuel table could result in endless tail chasing. Some other examples would be:
Tuning ITB with boost, do you put the changes into the rpm/tps table or the rpm/pressure table? Tuning Multi fuel do you put the values in fuel table 1, fuel table 2 or some weird mix of the two? It is something we have considered and decided not to implement for now. Mixture map does have the ability to easily apply changes to the fuel table based on logs that you can heavily filter to remove transients and temperature variations.

Although that 14V pin was originally only intended for low powered devices such as dashes, it should be ok on that particular ECU, I just looked at the PCB design and it has a decent sized track to that pin. 
Our recently released plug-in ECU's have changed to a 4 pin CAN connector with a proper protected 12V supply to allow direct CAN lambda and/or dash plug and play, but it will take probably a number of years before that change trickles through to the existing plug-in designs.   

Its a bit difficult to put in brief text.  Attach your tune and dash config and I will set it up.

You can look into the ecu master can switch board. I wired that in with 6 switches and 2 rotaries 
It works great. 
All with can

Another option is this: https://www.micropdm.com/products/p/micropdm
This connects to the Blink keypad and handles all the logic such as toggle/flash/count and the LED's etc.  All the button "outputs" can be sent to the ECU via CAN as well as some of the pins on the relay can be controlled by the buttons too.