Timboj

Can confirm that the combination of your suggested PID settings and the feed forward tweaking, it's working very well now. Cheers

I had some help from Adam with mine from the fb forum. i did adjust my feed table a bit but it was my PID settings. i am using P Gain 6.00 I Gain .100 and D Gain 60.00. and that settled it down a bit. haven't had the issue since i started using those.

After having the car off the road for nearly 6 weeks (more upgrades...) I've been for a few drives lately and haven't had the issue. Admittedly I haven't been trying to trigger this issue specifically. I rev match on my regular driving and it's been driving fine, but I'll test it a bit more aggressively today.
Current settings on ethrottle, with feed forward still zeroed:

The issue is to do with graphics drivers, the reason you see it on this particular build and not on previous builds will be because the issue is related to the graphics libraries as they were when that version of PCLink is compiled. If these libraries are updated between PCLink builds regardless of any change in our PCLink code then these issues can occur, we don't write the graphics drivers, just code that uses them.
We are planning on doing a new PCLink and firmware release soon so hopefully the graphics issues will be fixed by that.
The change was made so that people with the new G5 Voodoo Pro ECUs with Wifi could find and connect to them. It also means that instead of PCLink sitting there trying to connect to everything it can find, which is what it did previously, you can now direct it to connect to a particular device.
There is a slight change coming for the next release where if Connection Port is set to USB and only one device is found during a regular connect attempt then it will try to connect directly to that. Shift + F3 will still do the full search.

Honestly loved just turning the key and having it connect...the extra step is a annoyance..but the software is just becoming a big annoyance..

I guess I'm interested in understanding the upside of a nag box popping up every time I launch the app. I don't understand who it helps - is it your R&D team or some tuners with multiple ECUs live at one time? From a one-person one-ECU point of view there's no upside.

Graphical issues are compiler related and so not something we can change in the code, more of a look to see if they have been fixed since by various updates to the build computer. It's also not something I've seen on my own computer so isn't necessarily going to be the easiest to test if it has been fixed.
No current plans to remove the ECU selection box, it does work better in Manual mode as auto mode will try and fail when you power cycle ECU or disconnect and so lose the selected ECU.
There are some setting around directories in the options menu with tick boxes and editable directory paths. Do you have the boxes ticked or not (ticked means always use that folder, unticked means go to last place you opened that type of file from).
I don't think that setup changed at all on the G5 update stuff.

Someone commented in another thread that it's likely to suit WiFi support on the G5 Voodoo;
Given the firmware is now utilized on the non-WiFi based G4X line too, there really needs to be an update to allow selectable Connection type.. 
Literally just noticed this as I'm typing:



Never though to click this option - the old G4+ / G4X software was to select a specific COM Port..

Hopefully the USB option both suppresses the connection prompt, fixes the annoying popup and reduces the constant graphical bugs.

I'll open with that I'd rather keep all my questions / content to a single thread and hopefully this helps people follow along and/or helps solve their problems if they're similar to mine. 
Background: 2003 Nissan 350z running a Link G4+ and completely fed-up with Nissan OEM IPDM - especially the first generation IPDMs where the fuses/relays are rather finicky.  
Goal: Get the car running using the Standalone G4+ and two Razor PDMs and hope to incorporate a keypad for some control and using some of OEM controls.  

Question #1 - the car is running on the G4+ and has been since 2018.  I also have a G4x that I was getting ready to drop into another chassis (a separate infiniti g35) but would it be better to use the G4x with the Razor PDMs? 
Question #2 - Other than High Performance Academy (as I have done all their course work) is there another learning outlet that Link Razor PDM users are subscribed to, to further learn the PDM?    
Question #3 - is Pin 4 Ign Switch equivalent to an OEM 'accessory' stage? or 'on' stage? on an OEM key-barrel setup? 
Is it wise to mimic this configuration?   
My thought is to have a 3 stage latching switch on the key pad where the 1st push is 'accessories', the 2nd push is 'on' and a 3rd push would be off.   Then have an independent button that activates the starter while the button is pressed.   
 

I agree completely, Link's social media  game isn't that strong (unless you're following some drifting series), you guys need to shout more about how good your stuff is!

I'd love to see a lot more from your media team in general but have you considered creating some technical videos (not shorts) on how to set up and basic trouble shooting on functionality? I'd love to see videos on setting up/tuning launch control, anti-lag, boost control, PID tuning etc.. It would make your platform so much more accessible and take a load off Adam/Vaughan.
Sure there are plenty of learning resources out there but a lot of them are paid, or not specific to Link. Plus I think it'd be great advertising.
Haltech has done a great job with explaining tuning concepts. It would be great to see Link in this space.

If you're struggling to find a remote tuner then HP Academy and Evans Performance Academy are both fantastic resources for tuning on a Link and in general. Either will be able to upskill you pretty quickly in terms of understanding the various concepts and functions, and getting you up and running.
If you're attempting this at home I would say at the bare minimum you would need wide band 02 sensors (at least one) and tune your VE table around safe AFR targets. Leave most of the base VQ settings (AFR targets/ignition timing etc) provided by Link, but adjust for injectors and fuel type. That should be enough to get to a tuner -maybe try to stay under 3/4000rpm until you're tuned to play it safe.
That's where I started.

There are people out there who will remote tune, but at this point, let's start with "what's wrong", or "what's not working" or "what are you trying to achieve"?
 
There's a huge wealth of information and advice available here, and part of the fun for me is the learning - and understanding how this all pieces together.
 
Don't forget and underestimate the Help available in the PC Link software - it's FANTASTIC and exceptionally detailed - the best Help I've ever seen in my time in the software industry.

Probably because that is right by the neutral point that it is sprung to which will be the least stable point.
You can use the PID Setup functionality to see how much each part of the PID loop contributes to the overall value.

Just to add to this. 
Maybe the option to connect to other ECU's/devices should be relagated to a drop down menu option, rather than prompting you when connecting to ECU. Really slows down workflow. 
Maybe its just coincidence, but since running the latest release it seems like the entire software is running so bloody slow, its infuriating. I'll have to try the steps outlined above to see if I get same behavior, but I've had a crash or two and couple tables bug out on me, as I'm constantly connecting/disconnecting from the ECU.  Normally Link software is bulletproof so this is not great. Please fix!

If it helps what almost absolutely reproduces the issue... At least for me... Is whenever I close the lid to my laptop with the software still on... Come back in about an hour (laptop is in standby at this point)
Resume the laptops operation... Software is still open and glitches can be seen.
However, the next time it comes up I will do as instructed

It seems you need more throttle opening for this temperature, because your idle stabilized around 5.5%TPS, but your cranking was around 5.1%TPS. Is your idle ignition control kicking in while cranking? Try a longer hold time, more cold start TPS offset, and ~15 idle ignition target.

Woo and I thought my glitches were bad

Yep same thing here - the older software would happily just auto-connect - if you'd selected the option in Preferences.

Even with auto-connect enabled in G5, this prompt still shows, and then I still have to manually refresh the ECU list, select the ECU, and press 'OK' to the prompt - agreed, its annoying - and what purpose is it intending to serve..?

After moving to 7.2.2 I get this prompt every time the PC Link software is opened or ECU is disconnected. Was this an intentional inclusion?


Seems innocuous enough, but it's a step I have to do every time now where I didn't used to have to, but more annoyingly, if my laptop logging was running when I switched the car off, I can't just fire the car up again and continue with logging. I have to power the ECU, connect the PC Link software via the above and then ignition...
I've tried uninstalling and reinstalling but it's still there. Can we have this removed or switchable?

Your throttle looks to be controlling quite well in that log, I doubt you would be able to feel the +/-0.1% movement in most conditions.  
I would think the lambda target of 1.1 in that cruise area would more likely be the cause of any surging or torque variation you can feel, you will need more like 45deg ign advance and nice big spark plug gaps to run with stable combustion at 1.1 lambda.  
You can possibly slightly improve throttle control with the latest firmware, released a couple of days ago.  In FW6.25 a user-configurable deadband has been added to the E-throttle control which will quieten E-throttle movement down when it is close to target.  0.05 - 0.10% has worked well on the couple of engines I have tested.  Also in 6.25 the max limit on E-throttle derivative gain has been increased so you could try also bumping the derivative up to say 80 which has resulted in improved stability on some problem throttles for me.  
 

Was a stats not loading fast enough issue, will be fixed in the next release.

I have replicated it on my desk, I suspect it is because it holds the value from last power on for a while before moving to the measured value and the measured value will be filtered with the initial values in the filter list being zero hence the step up. Will get it fixed.

I think this might be a firmware issue when it exits the start up lockout., I'll have a closer look tomorrow.

https://www.blocklayer.com/rpm-gear
You can fill out all your gear ratio/final drive/tyre size information here and then calculate the rpm/speed to ratio to use.