Adamw

A tacho is a frequency driven device, it doesnt care about voltage, as long as the voltage goes above and below its thresholds to be considered an edge it will work. An ecu aux output has a 12V pull-up so it will give a 0-12V square wave.

These alternators dont require ecu control, hence they are not even connected on our plug-in ecu. The ecu control pin is only used to switch the alternator into "no load" charge mode when there is little electrical load under cruise conditions, around 12.9V. It is an emissions/efficiency feature and the step change in voltage will just cause tuning issues for the average user, therefore not desired or recommended for most.

So is it the injectors or spark that is not present on the cylinders that arent working? Attach a log and your tune.

Attach your tune and the log, no one can tell you much from a picture that doesnt even have axis labels on it.

I would expect our base map would still run it fine. Turn off e-throttle if you have cable throttle, go through the normal prestart checks as per the manual and it shouldn't take much more than that. Copying an ignition map from an OEM ecu wont be a lot of use in general as they will usually be mass flow or efficiency-based load and often have many other factors playing a part in the final advance the engine actually sees.

Try these. Pit limit button status should be received into ECU as CAN DI1. I turned off the DI latch you had enabled since the PDM will already be doing the latching. Martini_e36_002.pclx Gilmore E36 PDM32.zconfig

What is the speedo connected to? You cant have 2 devices connected to the same sensor.

You will need to do custom CAN at both ends to send data that is not in the standard stream. It is generally easier to connect the level sensor directly to one of the analog inputs on the dash. Two documents to refer: https://www.aim-sportline.com/download/faqs/eng/hardware/sensors/FAQ_Sensors_Fuel_level_100_eng.pdf https://www.aim-sportline.com/download/faqs/eng/software/rs3/FAQ_RS3_Fuel_level_101_eng.pdf

If your timing light has an advance setting on it, set this to 0. If you are following the above procedure then with the timing light clamped on trailing 1 lead, your timing light should show the 20ATDC mark aligned.

Your gear ratios are set wrong. Possibly you have changed the speed calibration after it was originally set up or something. From your log 1st ratio should be 120, 2=68, 3=47, 4= 33.6, 5=24.1.

Will need to see the log and tune.

Be aware the offset could be 90 or -270, one will be sparking on exhaust stroke and the other will be sparking on compression stroke, you cant tell which is correct with the timing light. If no signs of life at 90 then try the other.

Yeah, please do a few triggerscopes, see if we can capture what is going on.

You have zeros in your accel sense table all the way up to 3500RPM so you are getting pretty much no accel fuel on the primaries. Start with sens values around 4 will probably be closer. And then I would say you are really bringing the secondaries in too early, your primary duty cycle is only at 16% when your secondaries activate and that drops the pri PW all the way back to <0.7ms so they arent going to be controlling well then. I would personally bring them in say 50kpa and 1000RPM higher so you arent transitioning all the time during normal driving.

If you look at where I have placed the yellow cursor in the pic below, your rpm is already below target when you start to decay. Obviously if you close the idle valve when the RPM is already below target then it is going to undershoot more. The hold should end with the RPM above target, then the decay brings the RPM gently for the last bit. So you need more offset or a longer hold (I think probably a bit more of both). They both have a similar effect, but often a larger offset with shorter hold works better than a smaller offset and longer hold. This seems to vary a lot from engine to engine, so I cant offer a good one-size-fits-all suggestion, you have to experiment. You will also notice just before 0:22 the idle status jumps up and causes an overshoot, this is because your MAP went above the MAP lockout, so you need to increase the MAP lockout.

Yeah that should be all you need to do, assuming it does actually support CAN. It wouldnt hurt to try 500K also. There was another user on here a while ago with a similar Chinese display that wouldnt request any data until it saw data on the bus, so also try turning on a generic dash stream or similar to see putting other data on the bus wakes it up.

Yeah most likely splicing into the TPS signal will be fine. Does the TCU not have CAN bus?

I think there is something odd going on with this ticket in our system. I added a new reply today and added my own email as a "cc" then resent to you, I never received a reply so I assume you still haven't either. Im not sure what the issue is, possibly it is related to the original request coming via sales@linkecu so it is getting redirected back to them or something. At my end it all appears it is being sent to the correct recipient but it is obviously not. I have asked the tech manager to have a look at it. Im going to try creating a new ticket. Let me know if you dont get an email from us in the next hour or so.

Ok, and what is the question? Have you assigned DI 1 to a speed input? Assuming it is a two-wire sensor and you have the other pin connected to sensor ground? Ensure the pull-up is off and your calibration is a non-zero value and you should have speed.

The triggerscope wont give us much further info than we already had except that the tooth count now matches what the ecu expects. I assume you have a spark now? Have you checked the timing? Are there still no signs of life?

Change your RPM lockout above target to 500RPM. With it at 1200 your dash pot is kicking in and will be all finished before it is anywhere near idle.

Your ecu is set up for "RS500" trigger mode, but your scope shows it has an aftermarket 36-1 crank trigger wheel mixed with a 2 tooth RS500 cam trigger. Change the trigger settings to below should work. Im not sure on the offset, but I would try it around -90 or +270 and check if you can see the marks with a timing light from there.

There is only 1 email received from you on 21 Aug, Simon replied to that within a few hours. Perhaps it is in your junk folder? If you can find it, please reply on that, otherwise you can attach your map here.

Looking into the stepper motor connector means this:

I would expect our standard base map would still be a decent starting point. Possibly the MAP sensor calibration is different but that is likely all that will need changing.