Adamw

It should be permanent live, not switched live. It sounds like they have changed from having the original system of the relay being supplied constant +12V and the ecu switching the ground side, to a permanent ground and the ignition switch switching the 12V side. This may have been something related to the turbo timer or alarm system at some time or it may have had some issue with the ecu switching the ground side and that was the quickest "fix". The trouble with switching from the ignition switch is lots of other devices are connected to that circuit so it is easy to create current paths through other devices.

I wouldnt use the 0.001uF between pin B & C, but the other one on the main power supply is a nice precaution to take. You just need one on the main power supply each side of the engine as close as possible to the coils. Many dont bother and I rarely see any issue from them so dont sweat it too much, can always add one later if you have some noise issue.

It used to be a fairly common English & European practice to have coil drivers built into the ecu. BMW and Ford still do it today. Not such a good idea in the aftermarket world where coil dwell time is often guessed or coil duty cycles need to run high. Provided the stock coils are reliable and capable of the power you are looking for then usually just adding an ignitor into the adapter loom is the easiest option. Bosch 2 channel 0227100200 or Bosch 3 channel 0227100203 are reasonably easy to find for decent cost. Use Bosch, Beru or Huco, dont get a generic unbranded one. The need to be mounted on a decent size Ali bracket to sink heat out also.

It appears to be ok in that log. APS is now at zero. It just needs tuning now.

For APS you should just click on the APS calibration button and follow the instructions on screen.

Use the Hysteresis example below. SW cond 1 will be your 40% value and SW cond 3 would be your 50%.

What I mean by yours being unrelated is the two users in this post and the OP in the other one you linked all had the 4bar calibration selected in their tune when their ecu actually has a 7bar sensor. Your post said your ecu had a 7 bar sensor and your screenshot suggested you had already selected the 7bar cal, so that cant be the problem in your case. To diagnose your issue it would be best to start a dedicated post with the tune and log attached so it gets the attention it deserves.

God knows why, but for whatever reason, when it comes to port timing Mazda no longer references the common "TDC compression" crank position that you would think makes the most sense. Since tuners are used to referencing everything from TDC compression and you have a convenient mark on the front pulley referencing TDC compression, then from a tuning and engine control perspective it makes sense for the ignition timing, injector timing, knock window, etc to all reference this common point. I generally dont like to add the confusion of port timing since its not really relevant to tuning, but since I seem to have already confused you I will try a quick explanation. I might do a better drawing showing injector timing etc one day. When it comes to port timing, rather than use this same "TDC compression" fixed position that we all know, Mazda instead reference the combustion chamber volume that is relevant to the port or phase. To try to make that clearer, try to think of when a piston engine is at TDC it has the smallest combustion chamber volume, and when the piston is at BDC it has the largest volume. For a wankel there are 2 opposite points where "smallest chamber volume" (or TDC) occurs and 2 opposite points where largest volume occurs. So, Mazda use 2 different "TDC's" and 2 different "BDC's" for port timing. In reference to the red letters on the 6 pics below: C is "TDC compression". The chamber under compression (9) is at its smallest volume. This is what TDC or 0 is in Link ECU. F is "TDC Intake/Exhaust". The chamber that is open to intake and exhaust is at its smallest volume. Intake port opening and exhaust port closing timing refer to this point. B is "BDC exhaust". The chamber in exhaust phase (14) is at its max volume (eccentric lobe pointing up). Exhaust port opening timing uses this point as zero. D is "BDC intake". The chamber that is in intake phase (4) is at its max volume (eccentric lobe pointing down). Intake port closing uses this point as zero.

The 2>3 upshift was clamped by the main shift min duration, so that one would have been a bit quick if we reduced that. You can reduce it to about 20-30 since we always have a fixed 20ms dog unload first so it should be safe at that. However for the next shift 3>4, this one was not held up by the min duration, the problem with this shift is it is quite slow to come out of gear. There is high load on the lever and 100% cut for about 40ms before we see any movement on the gear pos voltage... Its not immediately obvious why that is, the RPM starts dropping as soon as the cut starts so the dogs should be able to come apart. Your lever force is a bit odd compared to what im used to in that it is higher than normal and tops out very early. Does it feel like you are needing to pull on the lever harder than you should be or is it just a sensitive strain gauge or odd linkage ratio or something making it look that way? The torque reintroduction time looks about right to me, you can see just a little bit of faint ringing after the shift in the RPM trace.

If there is more than one fault code then the live display and the log will cycle through all of them, displaying each for 2 sec. They will remain until you manually clear them. If we didnt do this and you ever had a momentary fault you would never know it occurred. These are likely not actually faults but have been caused by some maintenance like unplugging part of a loom or a sensor or ground etc. If you clear them and they come back on their own then there is definitely an issue. As confused mentioned, for your lambda you will have to set the error low to 0 and error high to 5 since your controller uses the full 5V range fault monitoring is not possible. The database error is nothing to worry about, this is only used for our internal diagnostics.

I suspect your remaining issue probably isnt related to the same rotor phasing issue as your ignition timing should see much less movement with idle ign control turned off. It would pay to check rotor phasing however just to confirm the distributor is posititioned somewhere close to ideal. Check what crank angle the rotor tip corner just reaches the post in the dist cap and also the crank angle that the rotor tip leaves the post. These angles are the max and min advance your distributor is capable of supporting. Note you can usually rotate the distributor if you need to move the range, but you cant make the range bigger.

Im pretty sure that would have dumb coils, have you wired in an ignitor?

Your drive link is restricted, right click on it in drive and go back into the sharing settings and change it to the option that is something like "anyone with link"

Pin 16 is not controlled by the ecu, it is a simple FET circuit on the adapter board that just grounds pin 16 when pin 45 has ign signal on it. This is why I want to know the voltages so we can determine which side the issue is coming from. Most likely it is something that has been wired to the ign switch circuit holding pin 45 high. I cant imagine any scenario that the diode will solve. 1 side of the relay coil's should go straight to battery live. The other side to pin 16. For the relay to energise the ecu has to ground pin 16 so current flows from the battery, through the relay coil and back to ground. A diode is basically a "one way valve", so the only way the diode could work was if the current was somehow reversed when you switched off ignition - that would mean the relay coil would have to be disconnected from the battery and connected to ground instead and the ecu would have to be sending voltage out of pin 16 (there is no internal path from pin 16 to battery). The only explanation I can think of would be either the relays arent engaging at all now and instead everything is being powered up by a back feed through something else, or there is something else besides the ecu controlling the pin 16 wire, or those relays have been rewired so the 12+ supply side is not connected straight to battery anymore.

You only get a limited attachment allowance, you can share the file using onedrive/google drive/dropbox or similar

Your APS is still showing 1.1% in that log. I wonder if there is a maybe ground issue causing the APS voltage to change a little when the engine is running. Can you do another log, but this time start the log recording before you start the engine, then start the engine and continue logging for say a further 20 secs. Attach log and your most recent tune. You can temporarily set your idle control APS/TPS lockout to 2% for now so idle control works, it would just be better to get that smaller for drivability.

I would bridge direct to the ground pin in the expansion connector with a paperclip or similar to rule out the ground and wire.

The idle APS lockout is the value of pedal position that is used to determine if the engine is idling or not. This is a fixed value that you set and should be around 1%. It has nothing to do with calibrating the sensor. You need to calibrate the actual pedal position sensor as I suggested above. The APS should read 0% when your foot is off the pedal and 100% when you press the pedal to the floor. Yours is currently reading 1.1% when your foot is off so idle is never going to work.

You havent calibrated your APS, it is still showing 1.1% at rest, it should be zero.

Ok, the problem is the idle control integral is too high, but it also looks like your APS hasn't been calibrated, so you should first do that and a TPS cal. In E-throttle settings, set e-throttle mode to set-up mode. Go to >E-throttle 1>Throttle position sensor and run through the calibration, then go to >accelerator position sensor and do its calibration. Set E-throttle mode back to On when done. Do a store. Go to idle speed control and change the APS lockout to 1.0% and the integral gain to 0.05.

That should work. So you are just touching the DI8 and ground wire on the expansion loom together? What function is the DI set to?

I suggest returning it to Link. It still has a warranty and will likely be a free repair provided it is not damaged due to some misuse. They are difficult to replace without damage to surrounding components and depending on the specific hardware versions they may replace them all. After repair it will be run through the same production testing as a brand new ecu to ensure everything is operating within spec and calibrated, as well as re-conformal coating etc.

I cant see how a diode would achieve anything.

A injector output is low-side drive with no pull-up resistor, possibly your autometer tach had a pull-up resistor built-in and the TCM doesn't. Normal aux outputs have pull-up resistors built-in, Inj auxes and Ign auxes dont. So you could either add an external pull-up resistor into the wiring, or you could move your tacho wire to Aux 2 or 3. The CE light would work fine connected to Inj 5. This is how you would wire an external pull-up:

Is it a supra plug-in? Do you have anything plugged into the CAN 1/RS232 port? Do you have a Link ecu showing in windows device manager when the USB cable is plugged in?