Adamw

Ok, so you have confirmed the wiring and ecu is ok. To test the sensor you could pull it out, plug it in and heat the tip with a heat gun or lighter etc to see if temp changes. If you have a compressor you could try pressurising it while it is out also. Oh, another thought; It would pay to pull the orange wedge lock out of the dtm connector on the wiring to confirm the terminals are latched in front of the locking barbs. It is not unusual for new users to not get that right so the pins push backwards when you plug the connectors together.

One of our ST ecus will definitely work, but I cant really confirm which one without seeing the connector/wires or inside the case. There is not a whole lot of info floating around for 89661-17370

Yes. The trigger wires arent shielded in the evo factory loom.

Open up the runtimes screen (F12) and go to the analog tab, with the sensor unplugged, you should see 0V on AN9 and 5V on AN8. Then get 2 paperclips, bridge the oil temp pin (2) to ground (3) and bridge the oil press pin (1) to the 5V pin(4). In the runtimes screen you should then see 5V on AN9 and 0V on AN8. This test would verify your wiring and pinout is correct.

The google drive link is restricted access, can you go back into the sharing settings and change the option to something like "anyone with link".

Note for closed loop boost control, even once you update the target table values to absolute pressure, the smallest value in your target table shouldn't be any smaller than the lowest "spring pressure" the turbo system can provide. The stages switch based on how far away from target you are so with values below spring pressure it there it is going to switch into stage 3 before the ecu is even providing any control. Stage 1 is open loop, stage 2 is proportional and derivative control, stage 3 is proportional and integral, so it is important to have these switch at a suitable point in the control curve.

Attach your ecu map and dash config and I will add some custom CAN to do that.

In your map oil temp is reading 20C and shows a voltage of 3.54V so that looks about as expected. Oil pressure shows 0.5V and 0kpa, so the ecu is interpreting the signal correctly. That was saved when the engine was running though, so either there is no oil pressure (is it a new build?) or a wiring/sensor issue. Are you sure it has oil pressure. On the oil pressure settings I would change the error low to 0.05V and the error high to 4.95V for correct fail safe operation later, but these weren't having any influence at the time your map was saved. Fuel pressure on AN Volt 10 is showing 0.02V so there is some issue with the wiring or sensor there, it should never go less than 0.5V if a working sensor is connected. The error high/low for fuel pressure should be set the same as the oil press suggestion above but again they were having no influence when the map was saved.

Just the normal "Nissan 360 Opto" should work with this engine. I dont quite understand your statement about "0BTDC" etc in your post? Just to make it clear, in the "set base timing" screen, you are meant to set the top box "lock timing to" to some timing value that you can easily see on your timing marks, most likely 0 or 10BTDC. The CA18 timing marks look something like the pic below according to google, so I would probably choose to lock at 10BTDC in this case. The 2nd box down is the offset, you adjust this until your 10deg mark on the pulley aligns with the pointer on the front cover. The offset for most Nissan 360's is usually around -80 to -100, but some such as SR20's can be literally anything since the CAS can be stabbed in anywhere. For the fuel/richness, just adjust the master fuel value up or down should get you close enough to run reasonably. You also have the J1 jumper set to the S13 position right?

Sounds like you probably have a cable connected to the CAN1 port that has the rs232 pins connected, this will interrupt pc comms. You need to use a CANF plug and have only CAN L/H pins connected.

Probably just 2 power grounds will be ok provided the wires are decent size. You would likely only be putting 6-10A to ground with everything maxed out. You dont need both sensor ground pins connected. B5 will need to be powered. Note you are going to need to add a bit of extra stuff to control the main relay for ECU hold power. Something like below should work I think. Mitsi pin numbers on the left, Link ecu on the right:

Do the GC8's have a large multipin connector in the engine bay near the firewall where the cabin loom attaches to the engine loom like the later subarus do? The later ones (and toyota 86's which use the same connector) are fairly well known for the terminals in those connectors losing spring tension and making poor contact. This is really what yours looks like to me, a poor connection in the 5V or sensor ground between ECU and TPS. Engine grounds shouldn't really matter provided the TPS is connected directly to the ecu. Have you tried measuring the voltage at the TPS as suggested earlier?

Modern "3 way" cats have a couple of reactions going on; 1. Oxidation of carbon monoxide and hydrocarbon in to carbon dioxide, 2. Reduction of Nitrogen oxides to nitrogen. There are 2 different catalyst materials to generate these reactions. When the mixture is slightly rich you have less oxygen in the exhaust gas so reduction by the reduction catalyst can happen quicker, also when running rich the engine produces less NOx at the same time, so you convert the NOx very quickly when slightly rich. When it is running slightly rich the oxidising catalyst is still doing some oxidation of the CO and HC but not very efficiently and it is depleting the oxygen it has "stored", so the ecu then switches to slightly lean, you now have more oxygen, the oxidation process accelerates and the catalyst can replenish its stored oxygen. This switching or dithering usually happens about 2-4 times a second at idle.

It will be fine connected to the ecu ground.

Denso efi was mostly all licenced Bosch stuff and almost all Japanese cars from this era used the "Std Bosch NTC" curve (2500ohm @ 20°C). So Im 99% sure your original sensor would have used the Std Bosch NTC calibration. Their claim that it is "same or very close to manufacturers such as GM" suggests they have no clue, GM use the Delphi curve which is around 3500ohm at 20°C. The diesel sensor in your last link is quite a rare one and I have never seen it used in a Japanese vehicle by the OEM (commonly fitted to GTR's in the aftermarket tho, as it is the only fast response sensor long enough reach through the long boss). BMW, Landrover and Fiat use it (mostly diesels) the calibration for this is listed as "Hella 6PT 009 109 041" in our software. This sensor is 6600ohms at 20°C, so again a long way off what they are claiming. Have you got a multimeter to confirm its room temp resistance?.

Yep you are right, receive 2 should be 1200. ECUmaster has a keypad status broadcast feature with a default ID of 0x662 so it looks like I must have originally been going to use that to transmit the boost button status then changed my mind for some reason.

Either your boost valve or warning lamp 12V source is not switching off with ign, cant really tell which from your explanation. The CE light wont stay on as that is connected to an injector drive which doesnt have a free-wheeling diode so wont backfeed even if live all the time. If you can attach a schematic of your wiring I can take a look.

If you dont start the engine does it remain connected and responsive?

A couple more relevant considerations: The Hella one doesnt like PWM'ing more than about 10A. The Crydom and other similar industrial ones need to be well overrated to give acceptable life, the 100A ones are usually ok, the 40A ones fail quick with just a basic pump. They generally dont work much above 200Hz either so im surprised 450Hz is working for you. Fan controllers generally work ok but be aware there logic is generally designed to failsafe in the "100%" condition. Whereas fuel pump controller's failsafe is 0%. Be careful with slowing common aftermarket EFI pumps down too much that arent designed for variable speed control, many give extreme fuel pressure pulsations when the motor torque is reduced, I dont really know why but I assume the rotor speed must become unstable. Most get pretty funky below around 45% DC.

You typically shouldnt activate a hydraulically operated switched or variable cam when there is no oil pressure, you can get extreme clatter and break parts. Typically only enable above idle when there has been stable oil pressure for a few seconds so air has been pushed out of the system and preferably also have a startup lockout timer so it doesnt engage due to the cold start RPM flare.

No, you might have to give a bit more info about what the problem is. That looks more like a possibly scope issue than a wiring issue to me, some of those cheap hanteks will do weird stuff if the laptop is plugged into AC etc. .

If the pressure switch is open neither the AC request or the AC clutch will work, they are both supplied 12V via the press switch. I would start by unplugging the press switch and bridge the two wires together with a paperclip or similar to see if you then get an ac request.

No, the threshold is hardware based.

I would suggest putting a pressure sensor or even a temporary gauge on it to confirm it is a fuel supply issue before you go randomly replacing parts.

The arming threshold is around 1.8V so you havent reached that yet. What speed was the wheel turning? Usualy they may enough voltage by about 15kmh.