Adamw

Not a very common engine in these parts, I dont think I have even ever seen one in my life... If you cant find anything, for the basic fuel setup I would suggest you copy our nissan GTR base map. Main fuel table has TP as the load axis. Equation load source = MAP. Lambda target table load axis MAP or MGP. Tune the main fuel table on lowest boost setting. Then test at highest boost setting, if lambda stays on target then that is all you need. In some cases you with a restrictive turbine you will find lambda will trend rich at high RPM when on the high boost setting, if this happens then enable a 4D fuel table (always on), with MAP on the load axis. You can then pull a little bit of fuel out at the topend under high boost - so most of this table will be zeros.

I dont think you will be able to run much more than filter level 2. Can you do us a triggerscope at reasonably high RPM, say 6 or 7000. Assuming it is using a reluctor sensor - Is the missing tooth cutout on your trigger wheel "half depth" lik pic below?

Can you update firmware to 5.6.8, I dont think that is the problem but the old 5.6.4 that you are running is from before my time so I dont have a good memory of any problems it had. Then with it idling with CLL off, can you try changing the "Min Eff PW" to 0.68ms. This will make it rich as hell but so far in all your logs all the odd lambda control and hunting idle is always when the PW is below about 0.67ms.

I guess by that you are referring to "CO2 boost control" or "dome pressure control" with two solenoids like an AMS does? We added this type of dome pressure control to G4X a while ago. Wont be adding it to G4+ as the firmware is maxed out already and it is a fairly substantial resource hungry function.

Yeah I have used both the turbosmart one and OEM ones. Both are significantly slower than pneumatic so control is poor. I would only use the turbosmart for something like a promod where you have a lot of turbine inertia (so dont need real fast response) and need to do some unusual control strategy at staging or launch that cant be done with pnuematic. The OEM type electronic gates we used at my last job for a category of identical F4 single seaters, in this case we went electronic to reduce risk of the teams cheating. We had to do all sorts of software tricks (Motec M1's) such as auto recalibrate the position sensors at every start up and software prediction of boost rate of rise etc to get them to work acceptably but even then boost control was not as good or repeatable as the conventional pneumatic system. I believe Turbosmart now have a black box to allow control from a conventional ECU PWM type boost signal, but I would only go that route for very specific applications.

I dont know specifically what format the RX8 uses for the ODO signal. I dont come across ODO in CAN streams very often but on the couple of cars I have it is just a counter that increments by 1 every say 10M, then when it gets to 255 it rolls back to 0 and starts again. So you would need to know exactly what you have to recreate before you could conclude if any of these devices could do it. Of the 3 PDM's you mention, they are all pretty capable. I suggest you play around with each software and try to set up some basic functions to get a feel for them. I probably have example configs for all of them if you need something to play with. Moristech: Be aware it cant use a CAN keypad in standard configuration, it is an extra cost option if you want Keypad integration enabled. The software has some quirks but it does work ok when you get used to it. The Hardwire one I havent had much to do with but I have helped set up a couple remotely. Again a few quirks in the software that make it a bit frustrating to set up. For example you have to drill down through about 3 different menus/windows to get to a basic common setting for some functions. The Aim seems ok. It was quite buggy when first released but seems to have been improved a lot since then and I havent heard many complaints recently. Limited to Blink Keypads only, and if you have a keypad then 1 CAN bus is dedicated to the keypad and can do nothing else.

Yeah, I would try adding a bit of deadtime, I have had a couple of other users with ID1700X's before that needed higher than normal VE so I suspect the ID quoted deadtimes arent perfect with the Link drivers (they test using old Motec M800's).

Can you attach the tune as well. In that log with the master fuel trim, did you do both +10 and -10 trim? Im still not sure I believe the lambda is telling us the full story since it can change quite wildly with no change in injector PW. Suspect a couple of cylinders are misfiring or something sometimes. In most of the logs so far it seems to run smoothest when Eff PW is above about 0.67ms, even though that shows very rich at times.

If you are on recent firmware, go to lambda 1 settings and set "Run When Stalled" to ON, it will then start before starting the engine. Set it back to off after testing as it can shorten sensor life with that enabled.

What was the situation you want looked at? Was it the the stall in the middle of the log?

You can also get thermistors that work to higher temps but they are just much less common. We used to make a little one which was good to 200°C at my old work: https://msel.co.nz/msel-m6-stainless-temperature-sensor/ You could possibly fit something like this with a brass adapter. I think I have seen some that work to 300C but cant remember where. A thermocouple is an option but then you have the hassle of an amplifier as well. I suspect so, hard to know since they were late '80s or early '90s era cars but they werent particularly powerful and generally looked to be unmolested. I dont use them very often, the few cases I have had a car with them fitted it as been for antilag safety. My logic would say pre-turbine gives you the best picture of how the engine is working, and how far away from melting things you are. Post turbine only really tells you how efficient the turbine is working - but you would need to know pre-turbine temp as well.

Sorry for the slow reply. Manual attached. KnockBlock G4 Manual.pdf

Can you do another log at idle, CLL off, then in main fuel settings add a master fuel trim of +10%, leave it say 10 sec, then try -10% trim for a further 10sec.

Correct. No, the 2 APS signals get wired to 2 x AN Volt inputs, the 2 TPS signals get wired to 2 x AN Volt inputs. So 4 AN Volts used in total.

Sounds ok to me. Engine block is the best star point when you have devices with grounds that cant be isolated from the engine block. You also want to keep ground paths short for noisy devices such as some coils which dont have a separate secondary ground. For example some COP's, Nissan CAS's, some oxygen sensors, some pressure and temp sensor ground through their mounting points. Your coils have a dedicated HV ground that you can connect to the cyl head and the rest probably doesnt apply.

Incorrect. Many 3 wire coils are dumb coils. Including most Ford and BMW. The 3rd wire is typically the HV ground for the secondary winding. The correct test is to measure resistance as the OP already did. A smart coil will have resistance >300ohm. A dumb coil will have resistance below 2ohm.

Sig 1&2 have to connect to either Aux 1&2 or Aux 3&4.

Suspect your max clamp of 30% isnt enough power to fully open the throttle. Can you set that to 90% and give it another try.

its a bit odd how the MAP goes dead flat when the fan turns on? This is where the lambda jumps off target also. Not really sure if this is a symptom or cause since the idle becomes much more stable at the same time. I wonder if the lambda is not reading right and it is actually much leaner than it shows. Can you try turning off CLL to see if it idles better.

To clear the fault codes hold the throttle down WOT while turning on ignition switch, then hold it there for 10sec. Provided the fault has been fixed, then the CE light being illuminated will have no impact on how it runs.

In Fuel Main settings if "Open loop lambda table" is set to on, then the lambda target is taken into account as part of the fuel equation - much like a modelled/VE type strategy. Ie You can change the target lambda later after tuning and the mixture should follow without needing to retune the fuel table. The target table will always be used for CLL target regardless of this option being on or off in wideband stoich mode.

Yeah, if it is <1ohm it is definitely a dumb coil. The reason for the no start would be with no ignitor the spark would be very weak. obviously just strong enough to ignite the high volatile starter fluid sometimes but not e85. The ignition system change going forward is proobably personal preference. 2 x decent 4 channel ignitors end up costing about the same as completely new smart coils in my experience so cost is a moot point. Stock coils with ignitors will probably be the neatest and require less wiring changes. The potential downside maybe the stock coils have less energy than the well proven LS coils (I have no experience with the Ford coils and would only be a consideration if high boost was intended in future). The LS coils will need a some more wires added and brackets and HT leads made.

You should only have one CAN channel set to CAN Lambda, this will handle up to 8 individual CAN lambdas. Turn off one of these and see if that solves it.

Moved to G4X forum. Your ECU setup is correct. You may notice the haltech help file shows "transmit DisplayLink", this is exactly the same as "Transmit Generic Dash" so that is ok. Unfortunately I dont have much experience with the Haltech dash to offer much help with that end - did you do the "load defaults" in the beginning? Did you do the wiring yourself or using Link or Haltech cables? Beaware the DTM4 pinout is different between Link & Haltech so that catches a few out.