Adamw

Below is the basics. You will need to determine trigger offset yourself with a timing light. You will find that procedure in the help file index under "Setting base timing".

The 24 slot disks are usually less troublesome. The Nissan 360 slot disks tend to be more prone to errors as the drive system gets older with more backlash etc and also can get easily upset from things like valve train harmonics due to bigger cams/valve springs etc.

it looks like you haven't got the pull-up resistors turned on?

Hi Benny, This sensor should not need a custom calibration, I'm fairly certain it uses the standard "Bosch NTC" calibration that is already available in the ECU. From your explanation it sounds more like maybe your "error high" and "error low" might be set wrong so that the temp defaults to zero when voltage goes below your error low value?

Pin 23 is correct for inj 6 and there is no extra hardware connected to that pin on this ecu so it should work just like a normal inj aux. I suspect a Tacho will probably need a pullup resistor added as the inj drives only have a very weak pullup. I dont see any reason why it shouldnt drive a relay or boost solenoid though. Can you take the wire off pin 23 and just use a test light or something simple to eliminate most wiring influences. One side to +12V, other side to inj 6. Put inj 6 into test (pwm) and set it to 10hz, you should see it flashing.

I thought the explanation in the help was already clear enough but I will give a couple of examples to hopefully help (note my examples will ignore deadime and any other compensations). The main thing you are missing from your example above is that your fuel equation load source will apply a multiplier as well. So assuming your fuel equation load source is set to MAP and you have a master fuel of 8ms: If I have a value of 100 in my fuel table and the map sensor is measuring 100Kpa, then the approx pulsewidth at the injector will be 8ms. If I have a value of 100 in my fuel table and the map sensor is measuring 300Kpa, then the approx pulsewidth at the injector will be 24ms. If I have a value of 50 in my fuel table and the map sensor is measuring 100Kpa, then the approx pulsewidth at the injector will be 4ms. If I have a value of 50 in my fuel table and the map sensor is measuring 50Kpa, then the approx pulsewidth at the injector will be 2ms.

Hi Cods4, Well I was wrong. Talking to Engineering this morning they tell me HW Block error 3 is something to do with one of the DACs on the trigger circuit, and the arming voltage will be affected by that so there is likely a hardware issue causing this. You will have to get the ECU back to us for inspection. Please fill out/submit the service request form here: http://www.linkecu.com/contact/ecu-service-requests/

Unlikely, it will probably run, but it will need to be tuned. Start from about page 22 in here: http://forums.linkecu.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=2550

The spark duration setting doesnt matter in your case, it is only important on engines where you have limited charge time - like a V8 with a single coil/distributor. With 4 cyl wasted spark you arent going to run out of cycle time until you get to about 10000RPM. I have no idea where the dwell time table data in our base map came from but it seems to work fine for most users, even boosted. If you are sure about the accuracy of your data then you have the ability to adjust that table however you like. Right click on it and choose "axis setup". You can add an X axis to get the "cranking dwell" increase. You could set up a table something like below. This would give you 8ms below 300RPM. 5ms at normal run voltages above 400RPM.

There is a "reload" function on the G1. that is the closest you can get to a "base map". It will set all settings back to the factory defaults.

You definitely have a trigger error, I dont think the HW block error 3 means much but I will have to confirm what that means with Engineering tomorrow. I also think the Trigger 2 arming voltage not following its table is probably a symptom of the trigger error rather than the cause. The trigger pattern on these engines can be a bit troublesome, especially as they get older. The alignment of the teeth on the cam in reference to the crank position is quite critical. On my simulator I get trigger errors for instance if I advance the trigger 2 position more than about 12degs from the normal stock location. The subaru engine due to its very long cam belt weaving across the whole width of the engine and the aluminium crankcase/heads means the cam position changes a lot from cold engine to hot engine. As the engine warms up the camshafts get further away from the crankshaft which takes slack out of the tensioner system and rotates the cam position. When your engine is cold your cam must be just moving into a zone where one of the cam sync edges crosses over one of the edges on the crank. There could be many reasons but it will pay to check all the related mechanical bits first. Is the cambelt tight, is the tensioner working, any loose or worn pulleys or keyways/dowels etc. Other common causes are excessively "decked" crank cases, skimmed cylinder heads, aftermarket pulleys, stretched belt, cam timing wrong, etc. I will report back tomorrow if the HW block error and trigger arming voltage are anything we need to investigate but my feeling right now is these are probably just symptoms. However I would say hold off pulling the engine apart until I report back...

With VR type sensors it is important to have the tip of the wheel tooth about the same width as the "pole piece" in the sensor. The pole is the metal core inside the sensor that the coil is wound around. On some sensors the pole is exposed so that you can physically see it, on others it is hidden inside under the plastic cover. On sensors that have a hidden pole you can get an approximate idea of the size by dragging a paperclip over the end of the sensor - the pole is magnetic so you can feel where it is. I will attach some pictures that arent mine but will explain better than words: Correct tooth width: Tooth width too wide:

There is actually quite a bit more required than shown in our Pinout. I will send you a bit more info via PM.

I would say with cams like that (they are not what I would consider high overlap) on a single throttle engine MAP will be nicely proportional to load. You should be perfectly fine using the more typical load source = MAP & fuel table Y axis = MGP. I highly doubt you will need to reference TP at all.

Your log only shows an engine idling for about 20 seconds, it shows zero fuel pressure the whole time. There are no cuts/limits active at any time. Are you sure this is the correct log?

no, if your gap passes the sensor when the crank is at 90 btdc (piston approx half way up bore) that is ideal already.

Yes reversed polarity can cause it. Also with a single cylinder the position of the gap will be quite important too. Preferably your "gap" will pass the sensor about 90deg before or after TDC. Do you know anyone with a "bigger" ecu like a storm or Xtreme that you can plug in to do a triggerscope?

Huh? that is a very confusing statement (or maybe I'm just up too late again)... Can you try saying that a bit slower this time...

That doesnt sound right. It should have two or three wires:

Yes it will plug straight in. Note there are also two suggested modifications: 1, fit a TPS Sensor. 2, fit a IAT sensor.

Crank + = 53 Crank - = 52 Cam + = 38 Cam - = 37

Correction, the numbers in the base position table when using a stepper motor are "steps from fully open". Therefore a smaller number is more open, a large number is more closed. Put something like 500 in the whole table will close the valve.

You can use either the Siemens or Continental ECS, the continential is slightly easier to wire so is the preferred one. %Ethanol is not normally transmitted in the generic dash stream but I could do you a custom CAN stream to get that working.

Hi Jordan, It sounds very much like you are getting a trigger error. Unfortunately the Atom ecu doesnt have the triggerscope hardware so it makes it a little more difficult to diagnose. Does your tuner have an oscilloscope? What does the engine use for a trigger/s?

Sorry we dont currently have facilities for any of the visual customisation you are looking for. So you are probably going to have to think more about the "export live data" option... The closest I can think of is PC Link has a "Dyno Comms" function which generates a serial stream to send out to a dyno. You could set up a "virtual" comport (like com0com) to read this data into your app/software. This is a fixed set of parameters however. See screenshot below. Otherwise you could possibly use one of the streams direct from the ECU - CAN, serial or OBDII.