Adamw

Yep trailing split is normally negative for the FD engine. Thats not going to stop it running though.

I wanted sensor still plugged in, just pulled out of the bracket so it wasnt pointing at a trigger wheel.

Ah, didnt realise it is a wire-in ecu. Polarity is correct in your scopes. Cant quite see in the pic clearly enough, but the braided shielding has been cut off at the grey plug right? Can you unplug the ecu A connector and measure resistance between Pin 7 &8 in the plug - you might need to poke some paperclips or similar in the holes if your multimeter probes dont fit. Its almost like starter current is passing through sensor ground or something... Can you also do a triggerscope with the engine cranking, but with the sensor pulled out of the plate so it is just hanging in free air - this may prove if the noise is coming from the starter.

Yeah something very wrong here, not sure what though. Can you explain the wiring better - from memory the sensor that came with the YelshaD kit that we tested wasnt shielded. The new sensor should connect to pin 2 & 4 in the original Nissan CAS plug. From memory on the Nissan side of the plug the trig 1 wire is Green & Yellow and the ground is black.

For a copy of the map, with PC link connected to ecu & online, go to >file>save as. it will give you a file with a .pclx extension - this is your map. For the triggerscope you need to click the capture button when the engine is already cranking. That one above looks like you clicked the button before cranking. The trigger is actually working better in that latest log. Still need to see the triggerscope and map to give some feedback.

Yep, looking better now. The idle base position table needs a bit of work now. To do this log a cold start and keep logging untill fully warm, then look back at what idle position was required for each temperature and use that to update your base position table. You only have 40-50°C in that log above. But start with something like below will be much closer: I would increase the idle integral gain to 0.5 also.

It can be either an air distribution issue as you mention where the air favours one side more than the other - or a "charge robbing" effect when you have 2 adjacent cylinders on the same side which are also next to each other in the firing order. So the 2nd cylinder is trying to pull air/fuel from the same part of the plenum that the first cylinder just took the air /fuel from. On the 1U (and SB chevy) this is Cyl 5&7, they normally run leaner than the others.

You will need a wideband controller if you want to connect a wideband. You can connect a narrowband direct to the ECU but they are not much use for tuning.

Each forum member gets a small upload allowance when they join to make it easy to get started. Once you have used up that allowance you can use something like Google drive, Onedrive, dropbox, wetransfer or similar to share your files.

You're in open loop mode so idle target has no effect. The step in target is probably just coming from the original closed loop fan idle up setting that is hidden when in open loop mode.

Bosch 0986AG0502 is the one I have used before but that was the 2ZZ one which I think is slightly different mount location. These gave better life than the factory Denso ones when I was involved in the Toyota racing series. Looks like 1ZZ part is 0986AG0503 I've also had good luck with NGK coils for other engines so they are possibly worth looking at.

No you can only send a numerical value over CAN. You will have to ask Haltech to correct their dash firmware.

Sounds like you are confused. First of all, what ecu do you have? For the fuel pump the ECU aux switches the ground side of the fuel pump relay. The boost solenoid is wired similar to the fuel pump relay - Ign switched +12V to one wire on the solenoid, the other wire connected to an ECU aux. The flex fuel sensor signal gets connected to a DI. The CAN connector cant be used for any of these devices.

Check the ecu connector is pushed home all the way right across the whole width (ie its not bent out at the ends). Your battery voltage drops to 5.4V as soon as the throttle tries to move so you have a bad main power supply somewhere - often with the nissan ecu's its when the connector isnt fitted right. Im also suspicious your throttle may be working backwards - so test it first, it doesnt need to be running. Put the E-throttle in set up mode and move the pedal. Look at E-throttle target and check if TP follows it. If it goes in the wrong direction then change the Aux 9 active state to the opposite.

It look like it is not happy with the trigger, it shows only 17 or 18rpm a couple of times then zero rpm for most of the time you are cranking. Can you attach a copy of the map and also do a trigger scope while cranking and attach that here too.

It looks like this engine has a modified cam in it. The exhaust cam should have 5 teeth per revolution, yours only has a single tooth. The K20/K24 mode needs a matching crank and cam wheel. We dont currently have a trigger mode that would support the 12+1 crank pattern you have with a single tooth cam. You will need to fit the original cam trigger wheel or you could modify the crank wheel by grinding off a couple of teeth to make it 12-1.

https://linkecu.com/software-support/pc-link-downloads/

Try this. Nissan 350Z Manual trans quad VVT 7Bar G4X Xtreme Plugin - 600cc - AFR Traget - Fuel Table - IGN Table - 20220625 - 1600.pclx

No. The current firmware is 6.22. You dont need to replace parts yet. Please attach your tune and a log showing the problem.

Hard to tell from your pic, but if it doesnt have a sensor on the upper wheel that has a single tooth and only has a sensor on the lower 4 tooth wheel then you need to set trigger 2 sync mode to none. 1 wire to ground the other to trig 1.

The power supply for the E-throttle controller has all been done on board from the main ECU power supply. You just need to assign an aux to E-throttle 1 relay to make the software happy.

You are probably using old firmware. In old firmware the fault value was fixed at 100%, in newer firmware the fault value can be adjusted by the user. Hard to guess since you havent provided any data. It could be an injector issue, or it could be something like a trigger error causing a spike of very high RPM.

There is currently no direct control strategy in our firmware for the electronic gates. It is planned in future but is not being worked on yet so is still some time away. In my experience they are really only an advantage in very high power drag racing applications where you need to do some odd control strategy at launch or for compressor surge that cant easily achieved with an pneumatic gate. In all other cases - especially road going cars the the electronic gate will give poorer control than a pneumatic gate due to the slow response speed. If you want to use one now the only option is to interface with the ecu via their "black box": https://www.turbosmart.com/product/blackbox-electronic-wastegate-controller/

It looks like a misfire, you can see the lambda go erratic at the same time. It is heading very rich just before it starts to misfire though - have you tried making leaner in that area? Are they genuine coils or a good quality branded replacement like Bosch? I have see some very poor performing clones of the Toyota coils.

You dont need a physical pin for E-throttle relay on a plug-in that has been modified like this. You can assign any unused aux - for example Aux 16. When you convert to E-throttle you will no longer need an idle valve so that will give you 4 extra auxes (Aux 5/6/7/8) for stuff like fans. You can also use Ign 5 (purge) and Aux 2 (egr) for other functions if you are not using them for their original purpose.