Adamw

All sensor grounds are common, you can use as many or as little as you like.

Im not sure I understand the problem. The ECU uses Lambda, not AFR for all calculations. Lambda 1 = stoichiometric no mater what fuel is used. In traditional fuel equation the Stoichiometric Ratio setting in the software is only used to convert lambda into AFR for those who are more familiar with working in AFR units. You can use the "U" key to swap between AFR and lambda units in the target table. A lambda sensor is not a requirement for Modelled mode.

I would normally set the error high to 4.95v and error low to 0.05V, then the ECU can detect a failed or disconnected sensor and use a fail safe value.

Yes, you can send data from the dash to the ECU using the CAN output function.

The intake looks like it is following target quite well to me. Have you done the cam angle test calibration?

I would go with Motec's suggestion for the dwell as below. It looks like the values they have chosen is to achieve roughly a duty cycle of about 50%. Note however, if the dwell is too short or the EST signal is lost the module just defaults to bypass mode - this drops timing back to a fixed base value around 10deg. It shouldnt cause it to advance from its base value.

I think the initial cause was the trigger error which gave a large spike in RPM, the RPM limit then cut all fuel which stalled the engine. So the question is why did the headlights cause a trigger error... Really the only common circuit between headlights and trigger sensors is the ground so it would suggest there is a bad or intermittently bad ground somewhere which causes headlight current to pass through the ecu ground at times.

Can you do a triggerscope while cranking or idling and attach here.

That almost sounds like it is rotated past its range of travel. Is the flat lined up somewhere close to parallel with the bolt hole centers like pic below?

This should show 5V with the 5V pin bridged to the signal pin. Since it is only showing 1.21V suggests you have a wiring issue. Do you measure 5V at the TPS plug?

What value pull-up resistor did you use? Did you set the correct pull-up value in the sensor cal?

The J131 box is an ignitor - I think the GTiR originally had one a bit different to that but that should work. In your pic the center pin (green wire) should go to ground, the right pin (yellow) should go to ECU Ign 1 output, the left pin (black?) should go to the coil negative. Do you get no spark even using the ignition test function?

Unplug the vvt solenoid, turn the cam angle test on, rev engine, if cam angle is stable within a degree or 2 then polarity is correct, if cam angle drifts say more than 5deg then polarity i wrong. The arming threshold is not user adjustable on the DI's.

Depending on the age of the ecu it may have a 4bar or 7bar map sensor. Sounds like it is set to the wrong cal.

You could unplug the sensor, watch the analog input voltage in PC Link, it should show 0.00-0.02V when unplugged, then bridge the 5V pin to the signal pin in the TPS loom/plug, the AN Volt should then show 4.98-5.00V. If it doesnt that would suggest there is a wiring issue somewhere.

No not compatible for direct connection. You can only use a Keypad via a PDM with the G4+, there is no function built-in to handle all the button logic and controlling LED's etc.

With ign off if you measure between the sensor ground pin and battery negative with an ohm meter you should see near 0ohm.

The trigger scope shows the signal after VR conditioning for the DI's. This should still give you the info you need. The trigger scope will show a rising edge where the cam signal meets the arming threshold and a falling edge where the cam signal crosses zero.

ECT and IAT should use the Std Bosch NTC calibration I would expect. MAP sensor will need a custom cal. Try something like below.

Im not sure I understand the question. If you are asking if you need to check the base timing with a timing light - then yes, you should do this on every engine.

Fuel cut will not cause it to run lean - there is no combustion at all when you cut the fuel. i.e a "20% fuel cut" doesnt mean you are removing 20% of the fuel, it means you are cutting 20% of the combustion events. Because fuel is injected and sitting in the intake port quite a bit before combustion, a fuel cut is not instant torque reduction - you still get a cycle at full power after activating the cut - similarly when the shift has finished and you want to restore power, you dont get any power for a full engine cycle after reactivating fuel. This can make the shifts feel much slower - at least with motorsport gearboxes, I dont have any experience with road car shifts. Fuel cut is safer for some engines that have trouble with valve control or hydraulic valve lash control. Fuel cut is quieter - generally no bangs. Correspondingly, Ignition cut is much faster, but noisier, can cause issues with valve control, and potentially harder on lambda sensors etc. I havent seen any issues with the turbo from ignition cut gear shifts.

What are you using to bypass air? In the old ecu was cyclic idle active all the time or only when antilag was active? Attach a log and your tune.

No, Brad said to set trig 1 as 4 on the cam which would have been correct and would give the same result as setting 2 on the crank. Offset can be anything between -360 & 360

About 1A would do.

No way to tell really. You could check firmware version and that may give you an idea whether it was years or months. Most experienced tuners would install latest firmware before tuning. There is ECU statistics which will show how many times the engine has been started since they were last cleared, but still no way to know whether they were cleared or not after tuning.