Adamw

I do remeber helping a couple of guys set up 6.1 hemis with older G4+ ecu's in the past, I dont remember them being anything too tricky. I can probably steer you in the right direction with some info from you. What is the question?

Yeah looks like it. @tbase I can give you a beta software with the new gearshift strategy if you want. No help documentation done yet though.

Yes, there are instructions in the help file.

Yeah that is what I was suggesting. It will be fine without ECT as the idle valve can take care of the cold fast idle. Typically I only have ECT on the idle ign table if there is no idle valve.

Trig 2 sync mode should be set to cam pulse 1X. There is no sync parameter as far as I know. If both trig 1 & 2 signals say yes then at least the ecu is seeing teeth so should be happy.

You could possibly do something similar with the idle ign table at the same time, give it say 5deg more advance all over when in gear. The trouble with idle valve only is you dont see the full increase in torque from the extra air until a few engine cycles later. Using advance you can instantly increase the torque on the very next cylinder to fire.

No I cant think of any way to do that, it is a pretty unusual situation. The closest I could think of is you could enable dual channel closed loop lambda with each cyl as a "bank". Turn on long term trim and over time it will build up a correction table for each cylinder that you could then copy to the individual cyl trim tables. It is not instantaneous correction however, it takes time for the long term correction to achieve equilibrium. Probably best to just do a few logs of ramp runs and build the corrections from those.

Something very odd with that lever force trace. The gear lever force flatlines the whole time the cut is present. So I dont know if that is a firmware bug or something was corrupted in the log download or something else? But it does not look real to me. I havent seen it before with other gear shift logs. I think you will need to log AN Volt 7 raw voltage as well for the next test. There are some shifts where a cut hasnt occured due to a TPS lockout and the lever force shape looks more normal with no cut. Probably best to wait for the new firmware as it is not far away, has better gear shift control but will need the whole shift function re-tuned.

Yeah looks almost useable now. Trig 2 is hard to tell 100% if it is correct polarity or not but I think it is. It will likely get a better shape and once it runs so do another scope when running to confirm. Otherwise I expect you should have RPM and sync now.

Your Ignition switch on DI2 switches off as soon as it fires. You could just set Ign Sw to off and turn off ECU hold power function if it is not needed (usually only needed for stepper motor idle valves). Edit - added later: Actually it looks like you have the starter signal wired to DI2 - you see the battery voltage drops and recovers at the exact same time as DI 2 is active.

You can but probably dont even need a virtual aux. You could just put "gear" directly on the table.

Ah, unfortunately no, only the native name for those lists at present.

Outside of idle conditions the throttle will go to whatever is in your E-throttle target table + idle base pos + dashpot offset. If it went to zero during decel as soon as the RPM got low enough for idle control to engage there would be no air in the plenum and throttle is closed so the engine would stall as soon as you press the clutch in. You would normally have 0 right across the top row in your E-throttle target table, I noticed you have 3% above 2000rpm so that will hold it open even more.

Trig 1 is looking better now. It looks like trig 2 is a reluctor but you have it set to opto/hall, so you need to change that. Not sure what you are asking here. Just click the capture button when the engine is cranking.

For the neutral/park step you need to use the digital input "Neutral/Park", most auto trans have a specific switch for this (used for starter lockout also). If you are only using the Analog input "Gear position Sensor" the neutral/park step is not linked to that.

No it doesnt, the label is stored in the log and will still be shown correctly on the logging views regardless of the correct map being loaded or not. The only thing that wont work correctly with no map open (or a different map) is the labels in the search tool when searching for a parameter may be different - these search results come from the map as it needs to work regardless of a log being available or not.

Make sure it has resistor spark plugs and OEM or good quality suppressed HT leads. Check coil 3 pin connector and the Ignitor 5 pin connector terminals are clean/corrosion free and that they have spring tension on the mating blades. Confirm ignitor ground wire to head is good connections, low resistance. If all those look ok then you possibly have an older revision board that had a less tolerant USB circuit. You can contact tech support to check and have it updated if need be. There is also a newer USB cable with ferrite beads that may help - tech support will issue this for problem cases. In the meantime you can also try swapping between the specific com port and USB mode in the connection port settings (rather than auto mode). Depending on the laptop sometimes one option will be better than the other.

Because the OP said he wants the ECU to control the cut and blip, not the GCU. Typically works better this way as the CAN will usually only be transmitted each way at 100Hz or less. So the GCU gets delayed RPM and barrel position information from the ecu and the ecu gets delayed cut and blip updates from the gcu.

That is normal. The DI's pull-up is regulated 12V, the trig 2 pull-up is 5V. The only important requirement is that the voltage rises above 1.5V when the sensor is not grounding it and falls below 1.0V when the sensor is grounding it.

Yeah thats a Littlefuse one by the looks. The GT101 is quite distinctive with a black ribbon cable type wire. You have used up all of your upload allowance so you will have to share your file with google drive/onedrive/dropbox etc. Example how to share in onedrive: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UoNjmbt65bY

What is the question? What ECU do you have?

No trigger 2 should be irrelevant. Make sure trig 2 sync mode is set to none.

It should happen all by itself provided you labeled the AN volt before you done the log. I just tested below and works for me.

So it was running but with a misfire, but now it doesnt even start? The trigger scope looks ok and there are no symptoms of trigger issues in your log. Dwell is probably too high for those coils, around 3ms at 14V would be more typical. If it no longer starts can you give us a log of it cranking and a triggerscope when cranking.

Your ECU setup looks ok and works for me. The stuff error (sometimes called bit stuffing error) suggests the GCU is possibly not formatting the message correctly - it means there are more than 5 consecutive bits the same being received. I have heard of incorrect termination causing a stuff error but have never personally seen that. I assume the dash has the termination turned on and the GCU doesnt have a termination resistor. I think you will need to discuss with the GCU manufacturer. Video showing me testing your map below. vtrSp1 CAN.mp4