Adamw

Was that with the engine running? Disabled/Diagnostics is usually because the engine isnt running.

You can do 2 bank closed loop lambda control or 2 bank narrow band control on a 6 cyl if you wish (ie correct 3 front cylinders and 3 rear cylinders separately). Most people would just use a single wideband after the collector.

Can you sketch a schematic of the power circuits.

The trigger looks ok. Do you have RPM showing when cranking? And spark? Have you set base timing? The VW coils use a falling spark edge. About 1.8-2.0ms dwell will do.

Its not enabled as a CAN input in that config. Have you ever had this channel enabled?

Its changed a bit compared to how it used to work in the older ECU's. "Key-on Fuel lockout" means the ecu will not inject fuel (ie engine wont start) until the stepper has reset to the start up position. The "Key off" option keeps the ecu alive after ignition off to reset the stepper ready for next start up then (even if keep alive time = 0, ecu wont turn off until stepper reset is finished) This is the preferable option for the plug-in's since they have all the ecu hold power circuit taken care off. So either of these options should still work ok and reset the stepper before start up - just the key-on fuel lockout option potentially means a longer startup.

I've just PM'd you a link to a beta software. Please install this, then update your ecu to the firmware included in this version. In the trigger setup you should then have a new "Jeep Cherokee" trigger mode. Give that a try. The offset may be different than it previously was.

What ECU do you have?

Newer ones do 3A continuous and quite a bit more for a short time. The lambda generally only pulls high current at cold start then settles down to about 1.5A for normal operation.

The under shoot is mostly idle base position. The base position is the position that the idle valve moves to when you are outside of idle conditions - the starting point from where closed loop takes over when idle conditions are met. If you look at the pic below with it idling at the correct RPM when warm in closed loop the idle valve is sitting at 75%. Yet in your map the base position table for that temp only had 65% in it - so when the idle meets all the lockout conditions the valve is too closed. I have tweaked that base position table a bit. I think the "hang" or slow return to idle after a blip is just a bit too much advance around the 1500-2500RPM range in the main ign table. So even with the throttle closed and the idle valve closed more than it should be, the engine is still making more torque than it needs. I have dropped that back a bit in the attached map. Increasing the idle base position may make this effect worse so we will just have to see. I have made a few other small changes. You can see what I have changed by using the file compare function. For the Fans running all the time - the log shows all fan statuses as off so that suggests one of our active state settings is probably wrong. Go to the engine fan settings and try changing the Aux 1 and Ign 4 active state settings to the opposite and see if one of those switches the fan/s off. In my evo one aux is set to high and one is set to low - but mine is using a wire-in ECU so I dont remember how that compares to the plug-in. basecal4testfromforum V2.pclx

Dwell scatter typically means there is a problem with the trigger. If the ecu is not getting regularly spaced teeth events then it throws off the crank angle prediction so the ecu has to stretch or shrink the dwell aim to make the spark occur in the correct place. Generally about +/-10% is ok, beyond that usually suggests there is a problem. What engine and trigger mode? It looks like yours drifts most when the engine is slowing down. Can you give us a couple of trigger scope captures when operating under whatever conditions gives the most error.

It was originally done to power a CAN device like a display or EGT amp etc. The PCB tracks arent huge and it isnt over current protected or fused. I wouldnt put more than say 2A through it. It would be Ok for most of our CAN devices except the CAN lambda. On our newer plug-ins with the 4 pin CAN port these are capable of about 3A continuous and have a self reset-able fuse, these newer ones can do a CAN lambda directly.

Shouldnt need custom TDC, just set ign mode to wasted spark. Ign 4 output isnt connected on the storm based GTR plug-in. MAP sensor is ANV1. Injectors shouldnt need any special setup, all 8 injector drives are available.

The gauge currently only supports 1Mbit. All devices on the same bus need to run at the same bit rate, so really moving to CAN 1 is the only option at present.

Its meant to stay open all the time, it should jump to the base position + any offset when outside of idle conditions, the valve should be plumbed into the intake so it has the same boost on both sides. In G4X you assign the actuator type in the idle settings. In G4+ you assign the actuator type in the aux output settings. If your aux output is set to "ISC solenoid/slave" and not "ISC Stepper" then it is set correctly.

If it is only crashing when changing monitors then there is not a lot we can do about that, likely the way the graphics card handles OpenGL. You will have to get into the habit of closing PC link before swapping monitors.

You may have to, but 15-20kpa is around where I have usually ended up. In that last log pic above it is stuck in stage 2, so it would never try to correct that last bit of error. Not sure why it hasnt reached the threshold though. You have to study logs to find what causes it to not reach the threshold sometimes - it may be gear, air temp, a certain cell in the DC table, a driver related influence such as how quickly the throttle is moved etc...

It needs to be a latching switch for antitheft with the G4+. Note you should be able to find something pretty similar in latching format. Example: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001334634778.html

Yes, set up the ecu to broadcast "Dash2Pro" stream with ID1000, bit rate 500k. Set up the OBDlink device like below. Choose the "link short xml" CAN description file, set bit rate to 500k here also before hitting done. That should be all.

No, shouldnt be anything else required. Check that connection mode and port are both set to auto is usually the most foolproof. Im assuming the ECU is powered up? In windows device manager, do you have Link Engine Management in both Ports and USB section?

The E-throttle relay will be done internally so wont use any physical output. You will need 2 analog inputs for the pedal and 1 extra for the throttle (you already have 1). They will add aux 9 & 10 wires for the motor. Im pretty sure they would be happy to add a couple of extra analog inputs at the same time.

I have updated some of the idle and E-throttle settings in the map attached which will be a bit closer. What does it have for a throttle body? The PID values are very low. Have you checked base timing? You fuel mixture looks possibly a bit rich but would really need to see what it is like at normal operating temp. The rest would be close enough to drive it gently. Datsun280zx2jzG4FuryconfiguredLIv3.pclr

This should work. Set H-bridge device up like below. With this set up Connect 1A output to pump -, connect 1B output to pump +. 1B will output constant 12V, 1A will PWM the ground side of the motor according to commanded CAN Aux duty cycle in ECU. CAN Mode tab: CAN Stream:

No diodes, just the pull down

Stage 2 uses P & D only, this stage is to control the approach to target. Think of "D" as kind of like putting on the brakes as you approach target to prevent it overshooting. The faster you are approaching the target the more DC D will pull out. Stage 3 disables D and uses P & I only, this stage is to remove any remaining error off target. So the main problem appears to be sometimes it is not reaching the stage 3 threshold. That could be too much D or base DC too low. The Base DC mode only changes what is used from the base DC table in stage 3. I would generally leave in in stage2-3.