Adamw

Nah that doesnt look right compared to what Im used to. Gasoline is around 0.745, Ethanol around 0.789. E85 should be roughly 85% of the way between these two.

As I said above, it is likely not the alternator. A simple test with a volt meter will confirm if the alternator is over charging or not. The more likely cause of high voltage in the ecu is the main power supply to the ecu has been disconnected (blown fuse or bad relay etc).

I just had a quick look in our system and your serial number has never had an unlock code issued so the dealer has either given you someone elses or has used the wrong serial number. Unfortunately I cant do much to help. You can contact [email protected] and they may be able to get an unlock approved with some delay but most of management is now on holiday for a couple of weeks so it wont be quick.

Your battery voltage is showing 18V, so the ecu is activating the voltage safety limit which you have set to 18V. This could be the regulator in the alternator failed (check with a voltmeter) or more likley the main power supply to the ecu has been lost so the flyback is pumping up the ecu voltage.

That looks like the PC is seeing the USB chipset ok. I think I would try a different laptop.

On the VAG coils one ground is the high current primary ground, the other is the high voltage secondary ground. Neither should be connected to the ECU. Ground both to the same point on the cylinder head is normal practice for these.

Injector timing wont effect the way it runs. If it had lost sync it wouldnt run as your coils are direct spark.

It is not a settings problem. You have most likely made the cable wrong. Any Link dealer can get you a replacement cable.

Did you do the test above (oct 8th post) to confirm the sec/pri ratio? It is important to do that as the quoted flowrates rarely work out. Then adjust the staged accel fuel setting to get the transition better. I would expect it to be much higher than it currently is.

Both those log files attached are triggerscopes. The trigger 1 voltage is quite low and is skipping some teeth due to the arming threshold not being met in one of them. The "running 2T" scope looks better. I would change the "sync tooth" setting to about 10 so it is doing the sync test well away from that cam edge. With it at one you dont have much margin for the cam to move. Will need a PC log of it running to help any further.

Map: Connect PC Link to ECU, >file>save as. Log: Hit F8 key, you should see the red "PC Log =off" box at the top right of screen turn greeen. Start the engine (or attempt to start). Hit F8 again to stop the log. Then go to >logging>save log file as.

Double the values in your fuel table as a start, as we mentioned earlier the fuel table you have is not suitable for modelled mode. Also something a bit odd with your fuel pressure, it is sitting at zero until you start cranking so you wont get any pre-crank prime and crank enrichment will be effected.

Can you clarify what you mean by "will crank but not idle"? So there is no signs of combustion at all? Or does fire but never enough to run? Can you attach a copy of the tune and a log of it cranking.

I cant tell from that photo what position the jumper is in. If it is bridging the two pins then it is 2:3 mode. Usually if it is wrong there will be a lamp on the dash but still worth checking.

No need to change any wiring, the tps signal to the attessa is already handled as per the factory ecu. Do you have any warning lights on the dash on? Is your tps jumper on the bottom board set to 1:1 or 2:3?

The reason for multiple grounds is to handle the total current for all the lowside switching outputs. Aux outputs can do about 2A each, e-throttle about 4A, lambda about 3A, injector drives can do about 5A each. For most applications 2 main grounds is enough, if you have more than about 15A lowside devices I would consider more.

You do not need to assign a blip solenoid if you are using E-throttle for the blip. Use the Overrun Downshift Throttle Trim table to specify how much you want the throttle to open for the blip.

If there are still no signs of life with the addition of starter fluid then it would suggest there is a spark, timing or compression issue.

There is really no limit to the timing that can be commanded by the ecu, I think we allow something like up to 100ATDC. But the problem is distributors have a relatively small window of advance that they can work with. This is determined by how wide the tip of the rotor is and the spacing between each post in the cap. A V8 distributor is pretty much the most limited due to how close the posts are to each other. If your rotor tip is only 30deg wide for example, you cant command more than 30deg difference between your lowest possible timing (idle ignition) and your max advance (cruise). It would pay to check your rotor phasing as per the instructions below, you may only need to rotate the distributor a little to make it work over the timing values you wish to use.

I don’t think anyone would be able to answer that without buying one of each and setting up a fairly elaborate rig to test spark properties. Unlikely the same due to the form factor. Most modern coils from GDI engines however do give pretty decent performance.

I cant view your video. You are probably best to contact your dealer for help if you dont know how to do a log.

No, as far as I can see there are plenty in stock. They would usually ship out the same day the dealer places the order.

Connect the white wire to any AN Volt input.

Everything looks happy and in the ballpark I would expect in that log. Just as a test can you try adding say 50% to the engine capacity to see if that changes anything (will effectively give 50% more fuel). If it were me I would also try a squirt of starter fluid as that is a quick way to confirm if it is a fuel or spark issue.

No, that is a trigger scope. For a log press F8 to start recording, try starting the engine and then F8 again to stop recording. Then go to >Logging>save log file as. For the map, go to >file>save as.