Adamw

Any on/off type signal like a switch/button - high/low boost, launch control, rolling anti lag etc as examples. Or any frequency/pulse type signal like a wheel speed, turbo speed, driveshaft speed, flex fuel sensor, etc.

Isnt the engine stalled and is being cranked in that area? I dont think it would actually be running at the 100-200RPM it shows before and after that RPM spike. Battery voltage drops because the starter motor is working.

The Evo 1 should have a factory wastegate solenoid, most users just connect the new solenoid in place of the original. The original is connected to Aux 4. If your original wiring is gone, then pin 40 is Aux 4. Connect one solenoid wire to switched +12V and the other solenoid wire to Aux 4.

Have PM'd you instructions

The module can drive any throttle.

I just knocked this up. Hopefully easy enough to understand, Red cells are the wires that need to be moved, about 14 or so wires to move. Green ones can all stay where they are. A couple of changes will need to be made in the map, I didnt note them down, but for example fuel pump relay will now be controlled by Inj 5 instead of Aux 7. ST205 loom toST185 ecu V1.1.xlsx

The analog voltage is not monitored/measured. The on/off status of ignition outputs when they are doing ignition is not something you can see as they are synchronously controlled by the engine time processor.

All G3's and early G4's will need the CAN mod for CAN to work.

I'll will try to put together some instructions on what you will need to move in the next couple of days when I have some free time. Just using the ST205 map is not going to help much as the trigger wires and grounds arent connected to the correct pins.

What function is on the ignition drive? Some functions are active all the time and just duty or frequency will vary. Example below would be the parameter that shows ign 5 turning on/off for engine fan 3

I think the problem with the tigger is the missing tooth occurs right on TDC when the crank slows down due to compression. So it will mostly be a problem during start-up, once the engine is running reasonable I would expect it will probably be happier. It looks like you need larger numbers in the top row of your E-throttle target table, change accel fuel to TPS, richen the mixture a bit.

That pinout you show matches the ST205 pinout, not the normal ST185 ecu. It is only normally only found on the carlos sainz version of the ST185. So you will either need to swap the ecu to a TST205X ecu, or shuffle some wires around to match the normal ST185 pinout.

Yes, but to enable CAN on the G3 it will need a small hardware mod. It will either need to come back to NZ, or if you know someone that is capable with surface mount electronics I can give you instructions.

Something like below should be in the ballpark

Thanks. Keep in the back of your mind, later when we release the next public release firmware version this 27 deg offset will be built in, so you will need to confirm timing again when you next update. The trigger offset should be zero in the final firmware.

Yes the Clio 3 RS trigger mode is for the VVT engines with 4 teeth on camshaft. Correct the cam sensor is hall effect and crank is VR.

There is no easy way to control a DC servo with G4+. There is a plan to implement a general purpose DC servo strategy in G4X in the future but it is not being worked on just yet. You could possibly use something like this: https://www.basicmicro.com/Roboclaw-Solo-30A-34VDC-Motor-Controller_p_44.html This would take a GP PWM signal from the ecu as a comanded valve position. The controller handles all the closed loop position control (so you have to do the setup and motor control tuning in the roboclaw software). I have never used one so cant speak from experience, but it appears to have all that is needed to do it. It would however need a reasonably good level of basic electronics and control knowledge.

You seem to have a wiring issue. Still no trigger signal at all. The MAP sensor pin also shows 0.0V. Possibly a ground missing?

If the trigger error counter is increamenting it means the ecu is not receving the correct trigger pattern from the crank/cam sensors. Please do a trigger scope capture while idling and attach that and a copy of your tune. Here is how to do a trigger scope: https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPmidU5V2CmTcv6t2y?e=Z9iXwF

You have no signal at all in those scopes. Was the engine actually cranking when you clicked capture?

RPM should show around 150-250 when cranking so it sounds like it is not happy with something related to the triggers. Can you do us a triggerscope while cranking and attach here. How to do a trigger scope: https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPmidU5V2CmTcv6t2y?e=X7Q8m0

Man, it really makes you doubt the quality when the sensor manufacturer quotes a MAP sensor calibration in gauge pressure... Anyhow, assuming they were at sea level on a nice day with the baro sitting at exactly 100kpa when they made up that calibration, you should set up the ecu like the pic below:

Sounds like it, but the proof will be in the pudding. If IAT and lambda works then it would suggest it is all ok. For the CAN lambda since you are sharing the power with the IAC which is a very noisy device (electrically) it would be recommended to fit the capacitor as per the alternative diagram in the quick start guide.

Not quite sure what signal wires you are talking about?

The trigger settings look ok, personally though I would go for the stock distributor over the EPM, they are horrible devices. But I dont think it is your problem in this case. A couple of things that I would look at first: You have almost no accel fuel. All the accel fuel settings look way off anything I have ever needed to use. So I would suggest you open our 96-99 Honda base map side by side with yours and copy the accel settings across as a better starting point. You only have 1.6-1.7ms dwell, that may be a bit on the low side for K20 coils. I would try it up around 2.0ms. Lock base timing to around 20deg and give the engine some good revs while watching with a timing light, make sure timing is reaonably stable and doesnt drift. I have seen some EPM's that produced a large timing drift with RPM.