Adamw

The BW turbo speed sensors already have a divide by 8 built-in to the electronics inside the connector. So with just the 1/16 frequency divider circuit above you would have a frequency of 168Hz at 92044RPM. For better range you can use instead the Q3 output on the 4024 chip (usually pin 9) which is divide by 8 instead of 16 so will give you 336Hz at 92KRPM.

There is a hardware mod needed on early G4X plug-ins to solve the backfire at key-on. Contact tech support for instructions on getting it fixed.

Can you attach the tune.

Our ECU is not designed for the S52. Have you changed the wiring to match the M50 pinout? What do you mean you cant check base timing? That should be one of the first steps. Have you adjusted the master fuel while running to see if more or less fuel helps? Also, doesnt the S52 have dual vanos? If so you will need to use the S52 trigger mode. Can you do a triggerscope - either cranking or idling.

That's odd. It was only fixed in relatively recent firmware from memory. So it might pay to do a battery disconnect to clear the faults since you have only recently updated firmware it may just be reporting an historic error now. I dont know how this car well, but some dont stop reporting codes until a certain number of key cycles after the fault has been fixed.

Im not sure, but it expects Lambda 1 to be received on ID 950 and Lambda 2 on ID 951. So you have to program one CAN Lambda module to be Lambda 2 before hand using the CAN devices tab.

Please explain what you are trying to do. You can send or receive the same stream on both buses but Im not sure why you would want to do that. 20 CAN slots with 10 custom multi-frame streams is already very generous and more than most ECU's of this level allow.

You do not need to set up a user stream, just set the channel mode to "Link CAN Lambda", You can have up to 8 CAN lambdas all on that one channel.

You have a max of 10 custom streams (ID's) shared across all CAN devices.

You have a G4X though dont you? This problem have been solved natively with the G4X and no modification is required. The wiring change was only needed with G4+ that was slower to boot up.

Whats it got for an ignitor? Is it the grey TFI module? If you wind the engine over by hand to about 20BTDC #1cyl, then pull the dizzy cap off, is the distributor rotor nicely centered under the # 1 post? Trigger offset will need to be somewhere close to correct also.

This is effectively what you have when the boost control RPM and MAP conditions are not meet. ie, the aux driver is open, there is 12V on both sides of the solenoid, therefore no current flow and no "magnetic field" to collapse. When you turn off the ignition, the 12V on the aux pull-up and the 12V on the other side of the boost solenoid will disappear so again you have no magnetic field.

Where does this magnetic field come from when the solenoid is already off?

Your MAP cal looks ok. Your water press is wrong, change to this: Note for the fuel & oil press, instead of using cal 4 you can just set it to the preconfigured calibration "1000Kpa (150psi) TI sensor".

You guys are barking up the wrong tree. The boost valve output isnt even activated until you are above RPM and MAP activation points in the boost control menu.

Setting the fuel mode to off just disables injection. If you want to disable the fuel pump then you can turn the fuel pump aux off (Aux 8). However, niether will do you any good if the ECU is shutting off during cranking, so you need to solve that issue before you worry about trigger calibration.

If its disconnecting it means ECU is losing power. You can confirm by watching the green LED in the ECU circuit board while cranking. Pin 56 is the 12V input from the ignition switch, and pin 54 is the main power supply from the main relay.

You need to tune the control loop to work with your set-up. Settings from even a similar car are unlikely to work well as even a change to something basic such as intercooler pipe volume will significantly effect PID.

From the help file:

I dont have any logic to explain that and it is not behavior I would expect so there could potentially be something failed or a failing solder joint, but you will have to try it back in the car now to see if you have a reproducible problem. Yeah I would suggest moving to ground to the engine block instead. The current I dont expect would be an issue, but you will be pushing all that wideband heater noise into your sensor ground and it will make all other sensors appear more noisy.

The ECU is not seeing the trigger (RPM stays at zero when you are cranking), but the trigger scope shows a signal. So I suspect just the arming thresholds might be a bit high. Change the first two cells of both trig 1 & 2 arming threshold tables to match mine below, then give it a crank and let us know if there is RPM showing when cranking.

Kind of sounds like you have a an ignition timing issue if adding starter spray doesnt help. You really need to confirm that you are somewhere close with a timing light. Note since you are wasted spark it should run even if your offset it 360 out so you dont need to try both say 276 and -84. If you got some signs of life at 276, then you could try advancing it say 30 deg (306) to see if it gets better or worse, but really a timing light is the best way to confirm. I just noticed it is pulling a lot of vacuum for only cranking so that may suggest the throttle is very closed/not letting any air in, I would hold that open a bit to see if that helps too. Otherwise as far as the log goes it appears it has fuel and spark so should be capable of running assuming the timing is close.

Note for a linear sensor you can just use the 2 point cal 4/5/6 instead of having to calculate every point. For example something like this would cover your new values:

No, if you have a VE of 150% something is still off. The fuel pressure sensor calibration looks pretty odd. What sensor do you have? Since you have not far off realistic VE at idle, but very high under boost, it suggests maybe a fuel pressure issue.

Yes, if the 5V output is overloaded it will generally cycle on and off. Quickest way to confirm a wiring issue is just to pull the 5V wire out of the ecu plug, plug ecu back in and switch ign back on. Then check in the runtimes screen if the 5V output has returned to normal. If it has then you have something overloading the 5V output. The 5V reg that is connected to the outside world is rated at 400mA (enough to power about 50 typical sensors), but they can actually drive more than that - just with reduced accuracy. They dont shut down until somewhere above 1A, so it usually needs to be a fairly serious short usually to trip it out.