Adamw

File below will do it without much work. Assign all the IO to match your wiring, and maybe some adjustment of the master fuel will be about all it needs. 1JZ-VVTi Start up.pclr

Here is the stream that I built for your previous config. Import this into the CAN builder app in RS3 and you will probably see how it works. LINK_Rensjes12 Custom_@20201027_025442_009492.xc1

What ecu do you have? Why do you want to do wasted spark if you have 8 ign drives?

Actually just noticed in your log the ecu is not happy with something about the trigger too, you will notice dwell time is all over the place and nothing like what is being commanded. This generally means there is a trigger issue and engine position is being calculated incorrectly. VVT wont work well when the trigger isnt giving accurate engine position. So first step is to swap that int/exh cam signal to see if that solves the trigger problem. If not please do us a triggerscope.

Exhaust control still looks a bit erratic and slow to me. I think it might pay to swap those intake/exh position sensor wires to see if it is related to something that is hardcoded into that VVT mode expecting exh to be connected to a DI. Base timing and vvt offsets will need to be set again after doing so.

Injector spray pattern, injector location, port temp, fuel composition and fuel pressure will all have a significant influence on what is optimum for you. You cant guess or calculate it theoretically, as what you are trying to acheive is find what conditions create the most usable volume of volatile fuel vapor. You must do it by experimentation while measuring torque output. Most engines it makes very little difference once engine speed is above about 3000RPM. For idle and low speed you can determine it just by adjusting timing so that you get the richest measured lambda for a given pulsewidth. As rrob says, for a warm engine at idle with injectors close to the intake valves, common values will be 3-400deg. For a cold engine/port usually much earlier timing is required - often around 200-300 is best. Knock level is not really relevant - this could mean the exact opposite of what you are trying to achieve. Less efficient combustion means lower cylinder pressure, less noise/knock and less torque.

Assuming it has a missing tooth wheel on the crank, yes.

Your battery voltage drops to 6.15V at the start of cranking so that is probably causing the under voltage error. It wouldnt normally drop below about 10V on most cars so you possibly have a wiring issue or just a tired battery. Having said that, update to the latest firmware, there have been a few changes to the triggers for error 84 so it is a little less fussy in more recent firmware. - But still you need to investigate the battery voltage issue. Also, with the new firmware installed, try the new USB connection port method as that may help your connection issue.

Yes, your proposed wiring is fine if you don’t need hold power. 12v on pin A5 is all the ecu needs to power up. Will need a log or more info about the throttle error.

In G4 it needed to be DI1-6, G4+ needed to be DI1-8, but G4X any DI can be used.

You can use the TVS diode as per your other post.

Can you give us a log of the engine running and the latest tune. Do you hear the ex solenoid click if you set aux 1 to test PWM? (you will need to temporarily set the frequency to something like 10hz so you can hear it).

Assuming the firing order is: 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8 Then ignition output 1 should be wired to cyl 1&6 ign 2 to cyl 3&5 ign 3 to cyl 4&7 ign 4 to cyl 2&8

Sorry had some surgery this morning so my head is still a bit hazy from the sedation, but have you checked the base timing now with the engine running? Have you tried adjusting the master fuel up and down while running to see if it runs any cleaner when you move in one direction? You have 0deg in your ignition table so not many engines will be happy at that, try 10 or 15 at idle, ramping to 30 by about 3000 as a starting point.

Yes, same method works on all our ECU's.

Something doesnt look right in your measured voltages above. At 15.3AFR your gauge should output about 3.4V, that is a long way off 1.00V that you report. This cant be explained by a ground offset or other common analog error. Either something is wrong with your measurements, or the gauge is faulty.

RS232 is in the same socket as CAN 1. With RS232 you make the connections "cross over" - so the RX on the ECU plug connects to the Tx pin on the laptop and vice versa. You can use either a laptop with a genuine serial port if you have one or a USB>serial adapter.

For the pic above I typed "R34 service manual" into google and that was the first hit. https://www.plmsdevelopments.com/files/R34_All_Workshop_Manual.pdf Page BR14/BR15

Can you go to the runtimes screen and check what frequency and duty is being reported on DI 8.

From engineering: The driver is a XXXXX. It can detect open load, short to ground, and short to bat. The following are tested when the aux is off: Open load threshold voltage (fault detected if VOUTi < VOL) VOL = 2/3VBAT Short to GND threshold voltage (fault detected if VOUTi < VSG) VSG = 1/3VBAT There are similar and further tests when the aux is "ON". You could attach a scope if you have one to see what voltage swing you have on the aux output to confirm which one of these is tripping the fault. But based on some other cases we have investigated I feel the most likely cause is the "open load test" which is caused by what I explained earlier where the voltage is clamped lower than 2/3 battery voltage by the device when the aux is off. After my discussion with engineering today they are going to consider disabling that open load test as it isnt particularly useful in many cases.

How you number the banks is really up to you - whatever is easiest for you to remember I guess. Nissan use the convention right side is bank 1 and left side is bank 2. And the VVT in our 350Z basemap is set up so that Bank 1 is the right side and Bank 2 being the left so it will probably be best to stick with that convention. In the closed loop lambda settings you can assign which lambda input is used for which bank - I suggest for clarity use Lambda 1 for bank 1 and Lambda 2 for bank 2. So if you decide to stick with Nissan's convention, you would assign the Lambda sensor on the right exhaust to "Lambda 1" and assign the left lambda input as Lambda 2. Then set your CLL sources and injectors like below:

Your snip is the specifcation for the ignition drives, not injector drives. The Monsoon injector drives are saturated type so you will need ballast resistors to limit the current through the injector. Note the purpose of the resistor is typically to protect the injector, not so much the ecu. If you put full current through a low impedance injector the windings inside will eventually melt and short internally.

You dont have barely any fuel going in still. You master fuel is still only set to 2. Most likely it will need to be somewhere around 10-20. Also your fuel table just has a flat 7 in it. Typical fuel table numbers would be more like 30-100. Import the fuel table I have attached below. will be a closer starting point. And, as I have said earlier in your other post you need to increase the dwell, the MSD's dont work reliably with 1.0ms at low speeds. 2.0 would be the bare minimum I would use. The trigger errors are most likely due to the ecu having trouble detecting the missing tooth at uneven cranking speeds. It will probably improve as the tune gets better. Can you try changing the engine type to 2 stroke. Leave ignition as direct and fuel as sequential. This in theory will give you the same as 4 stroke with wasted spark(which seems to be a problem), so it will spark every TDC and give more reliable start up. You will get twice as much fuel so master will need to be half of whatever it needs in 4 stroke mode (probably something like 5-10ms is my guess). Fuel Table 1.lte

Not really. You can do it by editing an XML file but you would need a pretty good understanding of xml before attempting that. If it is only a single page it will be easier to just create it from scratch. You can open two copies of PC Link at the same time with old and new layouts open so you can quickly swap between them so you have something to copy.

Pin 2 is the secondary ground, it needs to be connected to the cyl head. And definately dont run them with that much dwell. They pull about 16A at 2.5ms and 25A at 3ms. The are just saturating at 3ms so no point ever going more than that. Normally about 1.8ms will do a NA engine.