Adamw

You have very obvious trigger error in the video. RPM should not bounce around like that. You need to set trigger 2 to hall/opto. Pull-up on. Not sure if it will need rising or falling edge, possibly either will work. I would try rising first.

It is unlikely the lack of terminating resistor would prevent communications but it is correct practice to have one so you should fit one. I have come across some devices that are very sensitive to termination. Error code 14 is AN Volt 2 at ground. If you clear the fault codes does it come back? It could be caused for instance if you had unplugged your TPS at some time in the past.

Ideally you would still want a single tooth sensor in the distributor so you can run direct spark & sequential. If you fit a crank trigger with no cam sensor then you can only run wasted spark and multipoint group injection.

Start map attached. I havent set up the idle stepper motor or the secondary throttle stepper motor. Trigger offset is a bit of a guess, I only have a couple of maps from different ecu's to work from. Hayabusa Gen 2.pclr

Attach a log of it cranking and your map.

Ok, Im clutching at straws now, cant really see much wrong. Try this: Save a copy of your map. Change trigger mode to something completely different - say chev LS1 or something. Do a store. Then load your saved map back in. This will completely overwrite and re-initialise all trigger settings - just in case one of the hidden settings that we dont see has become corrupt somehow. Do another idle log after that.

I dont see anything wrong there. I think you will have to get in touch with Gaugeart now to see if they can offer any troubleshooting advice. The ECU setup and wiring looks correct. I assume you have programmed the gauge for the correct ECU protocol etc?

can you attach your tune, I will test it here.

Increasing the trigger offset by 1 deg should advance the timing by 1 deg. Is the engine wasted spark? If you have an advance timing light it will read double unless it has a specific wasted spark/2 stroke setting. Otherwise it sounds like it may be a trigger issue, will need to see a log and your tune to help.

The S50B30 should have the high pressure vanos on inlet cam only. It should have two solenoids - one for advance, one for retard. Advance solenoid is the top one, retard is the bottom. You need to cut the connectors off and fit something generic as the factory connectors have diodes in them designed for highside drive. If you do a triggerscope and post it I will be able to suggest most of the settings from that.

Gen 1 is 24-1 on crank trig 1, cam pulse 1X on trig 2

Im starting to run out of ideas. 0.5ohm to pin 24 suggests the ground is ok. With ecu plugged in, but crank sensor unplugged, can you measure resistance between the crank sensor ground pin (in the eng loom) and a clean ground point on the engine block/head.

Yeah, I havent used mine for a long time but 1.7 and 2.0 would be what I used for most of the common automotive terminals. Usually the L size cavity. As with any crimp tool you are getting familiar with, its best to waste a couple of terminals on a scrap piece of wire and do a close visual as well as tug test before committing to the actual job.

Your bit rate is set to 1Mbit in that file. It will need to be 250K or 500K for OBD2. Not all devices support 500K, so I would suggest 250. Also, I would turn off the generic dash stream that you have set on channel 1 while you are trouble shooting.

You will have to try it without L connected to see if it still charges, some alternators will work without it, most wont.

what ecu do you have? Which can port has the OBD socket been wired too? Can you attach your tune.

Note your ECU is a G4+ not a G4X, I will move this thread to the correct forum shortly. Your ECU is configured correctly according to GaugeArt's instructions, but the ECU is receiving no acknowledge from the gauge. This can be caused by many factors such as the receiving device set up incorrectly, but most commonly it is a wiring issue such as H/L swapped or connected to wrong pin.

Are you on the latest 6.18.8 firmware that come out yesterday? ODB2 was only just added in the latest.

There is no configurable CAN on the G4, that was one of the features that you got if you paid extra for the equivalent Vipec at the time. My suggestion would be to move either your IAT or ECT sensor to ANV 4 as there are options for native ECT/IAT on a voltage input but no option for Oil temp. Then you can connect your oil temp to whichever temp input you free up and they will all be transmitted out over CAN in the standard generic stream. Whichever temp sensor gets connected to the ANV input will need a external 1Kohm pull-up connected to 5V.

I didnt get time today. Hopefully tomorrow.

No, the alternator needs significant current through the field winding for it to start charging. Usually the 3W lamp on the dash provides this current. So the 70ohm resistor is there to mimic what the old charge light would have done. I dont know off the top of my head what value the dash internal pull-up resistors are but they will like be 10-100Kohm so not even in the ballpark. It needs to be a big 5W resistor as it will have a fair bit of power going through it and will make a lot of heat.

I havent tried this myself, but I expect a resistor inline like below should do it.

Ok, mostly your E-throttle target and base position table were completely wrong. But I think the main ignition table and idle ignition table could be improved also to give much better torque control around idle. So in the attached file I have changed lots, it may not work well initially so dont fret if it still no good. Please load this map in and do another log, I may still need to make some tweaks. Oh please update to the latest firmware also before doing the log. There were a couple of improvements to idle control in 5.6.7. New idle.pclr

The aux outputs are a low current ground, they cannot control a pump directly, it needs to go via a relay. Hopefully you havent fried the output doing that.

The MAP sensor will not prevent trigger, but you still need a working MAP sensor for it to run. Neither of those sensors is a Link sensor. 1 is a GM/Delphi sensor, but it could be 1,2,3 or 4Bar as they all look the same. The factory 1FZ MAP sensor usually matches the ST185 calibration but if yours is outputting 3.4V it is doesnt sound like it is the normal 1FZ sensor. You will have to find a MAP sensor with known calibration, it is the most important sensor for engine control so you cant just guess.