Adamw

Note as per the help file you cant use aux 9 - it is only for E-throttle. You can use aux 10 or 11.

It is normal for the software to freeze for a second on a slow laptop while the triggerscope is recording. Can you do a video with your phone or something so I can see what you are doing and what you mean.

You can use any type of resistor you like, but a common 5W resistor would be the wire wound type that is a big ceramic block with legs out each end. The idea of the resistor is to mimic what the charge light normally does so you have to wire it just like the charge lamp would be wired. Ign switched +12V on one side, alternator on the other.

No, how you have it is correct, your "mate" is wrong. Have a look at our supra base map. The numbers in the base position table are "Steps from fully open", so a larger number means the valve is more closed = lower RPM. It must be set up this way and will only work correctly this way. If he sets it in reverse so the numbers in the base position table are reversed then closed loop idle will not work as the ecu will be closing the valve when it has to open it. Here is the explanation in the help file:

It looks like mostly your base position table isnt right, at the beginning of the log it needs about 35% to idle at 800 yet your base position table only has 28% in it. But I also dont like how the idle ign table has been set up and the idle area in the main ign table is really odd too. So I have attached your tune with these changed to how I would normally expect them to be. Since I have changed quite a bit, I still may not have the idle correct, but do another log with these settings and we will see if we are heading in the right direction. shaun2 new idle.pclr

That triggerscope shows nothing. Are you sure you clicked capture while the engine is turning?

There is still a little spike every time a spark plug fires but it is looking much better. I suspect you will be able to get the ecu to ignore these using the arming threshold. As long as they dont get massively bigger at higher load.

It will depend how the motor coils are wired. Set it to whichever direction gives you higher RPM when you decrease the steps in the base position table when in open loop. It sounds like yours is wired so the direction should be normal.

You will need either an alternator light or an equivalent resistor to excite the alternator. Usually a 3W bulb or a 50-60ohm, 5W resistor will do it.

Keep it powered by 5V if that is what it is designed for.

Can you do a triggerscope while cranking. This video is using a G4+ so your screen will look a little different but it is much the same procedure: https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPmidU5V2CmTcv6t2y?e=PwhlwU

If you are getting RPM in missing tooth mode then it suggests the crank sensor is at least working. Are you clicking the capture button on the trigger scope when the engine is cranking?

Charge temp will remove roughly 4% fuel for every 10degC increase of charge temp. So if you have 100% in the charge temp approx table (fully biased to water temp) and your water temp was 20°C for a cold start and 90°C when warmed up then the charge temp increase of 70°C would mean 28% less fuel when warm. On the other hand, if your charge temp approximation was fully biased to air temp (0%), and you started with an air temp of 20°C for the cold start and it raised to 50°C when warm then you only have an 12% reduction in fuel from cold to warm.

As I said above it works fine as a 2D table with RPM on the axis for me. Can you note down the exact steps you are taking to reproduce this.

It will allow you to have fast idle for warm up but you should be able to achieve an acceptable warm idle without it.

It looks like a bit of a mixture of many factors. I have made some adjustments to your map, you can use the compare function in the software to see what I changed. Give it a try. I richened up the idle target lambda to .96 as many engines arent happy idling at 1.0. I have flattened out your fuel map around the idle region. I have made idle ign a bit more agressive and have adjusted the idle base position table - this really needs calibrating properly in open loop mode but it should be closer than it was. Also, your injection timing looks pretty odd, I didnt change it, but I suggest you try adjusting it while idling to see if it makes it run any smoother, most of the time it makes little difference, but it is more common to be around 380deg, whereas yours has 250deg at idle. Tweaked idle.pclr

Yes, you could remove the crankshaft and fit the 24X trigger wheels on to it if you really wanted to keep the 24X sensor, but most people would say it is easier to just swap the sensor.

Definitely a trigger issue so start with the triggerscope. If the triggerscope looks normal then it can be difficult to diagnose an intermittent problem like this. Can you confirm it has resistor spark plugs?

The LS1 (24X) uses two trigger wheels stacked side by side with two different tooth patterns on each. The 24X sensor is basically two sensors side by side in the same body that combines the signals from the two wheels into a single output. It will not work with the 58X wheel which is just a single row wheel and requires a single row sensor.

The scope looks quite a bit cleaner now. So it suggests ignition system is creating some noise or ground offset somewhere. I would look at the grounds first. Make sure the ignitor has a clean ground path direct to the block. Make sure the ecu ground pins have a good ground to the block. Make sure the battery has a good connection to the block.

That doesnt look like a map you have attached, it should be more like 160Kb. A log and triggerscope would be helpful too.

A bit more detail in this video: https://youtu.be/Eo9zBcIkacs Also there is now a function not mentioned in that video "surface locked to focused table" (right click on surface view to enable) which allows you to have just one surface view to cover say both fuel and ign tables.

Most likely, adjust the throttle stop to see if it idles happily at lower RPM, it may need the idle cells in the fuel map adjusted if not. Once you have the throttle in a position where it idles at an RPM you are happy with then lock up the screw, shut it down and do a TP cal.