Adamw

I dont know. Only some of our ECU's have high-side drives (not Atom, Monsoon or plug-ins), those that do are capable of 0.5A highside. I dont know what those solenoids require, but assuming their resistance is more than about 30ohms you should be ok to highside drive.

Yep, you got it this time. I cant beleive I have seen this twice in a week now, but you have a damaged trigger wheel on your crank. It has some teeth missing somewhere about directly opposite to where the normal missing teeth are meant to be. Same as this guy here, he says his had rusted off:

Nope, I dont think you have done that right. Make sure the engine is cranking when you click the capture button, and keep it cranking for 5 seconds or so after.

Ill take a quick look at the level balance if you attach a log. I dont have any 3SGTE experience to share but will say every engine is quite unique, I rarely find I can take settings from a car I have previously done and put them straight in the next even with the same engine.

The Atom doesnt have knock control or any inputs that are suitable for knock. Knock is actually an audio signal so our ECU's with knock control have a dedicated knock input pin with the appropriate hardware inside to process it.

Looks like you have some trigger issues. Can you do a triggerscope while cranking. Here's how: https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPmidU5V2CmTcv6t2y?e=jewJ26

If the harness is TT based I would expect it to have a map sensor connector and wastegate valve connector in the loom already. At the ECU end of the loom the MAP sensor signal wire would go to pin B62 and the wastegate valve signal would be on pin B60. So check if there are wires in those holes already - if there is then they are likely in the engine bay already.

When you say it "wont start", can you give a bit more detail - are there any signs of life at all - cough or backfire or anything? Do you have realistic and stable RPM in the software when cranking? Can you do a short PC log of it cranking: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

You would want to check base timing with a timing light after changing trigger mode, but otherwise the ignition map should be fine.

The plug and play ECUs have expansion ports inside the case designed to make it easy to add sensors. EXP 1 could do your pressure sensors and flex sensor. The watesgate solenoid and MAP sensor would normally just be connected to the existing wires in the engine bay. Or is your car originally a non-turbo model?

As far as I know the tacho gets its signal from the ignitor in these cars. Have you changed any of the ignition system? I suspect AC maynot work until the control units sees RPM.

Do you mean the plug for the expansion harness? It is probably easier to just order one from a Link dealer that is already crimped etc. The connector is a JST XA series, housing is XARP-05V, terminals are SXA-01T-P0.6. The proper crimp tool is very expensive, you may get away with some other generic micro crimp tool but I dont have any suggestions to offer

Ok, I suggest you contact [email protected] and get a service request form. It will have to come back to NZ for inspection/repair.

I just tested on the bench, I get the same temperature displayed in G4X as I do in G4+ using the built-in 0280130017 calibration.

So does it not stumble with the idle valve unplugged? Have you ever noticed it stumble when in open loop mode?

You will need need to plug your wideband into the CAN 2 socket, the CAN 1 socket is not connected on the first revision board (an oversight). Change the setup in the mode tab to match. And the "Find devices" tool you dont need to use, it is only used for re-programing Link CAN Lambdas. Just make sure in the ecu settings>analog inputs menu you set Lambda 1 Lambda sensor control to "Link CAN".

Open up the case and check the CANPCB cable is plugged into the USB socket on the top board. I have seen guys mistakenly plug them into the CAN ports on the bottom board before.

Your lockouts are too generous so the idle system is kicking in while you are still coasting/overrun, the ecu closes the idle valve trying to bring RPM down under control, then you push in the clutch disengaging the over-run driving effect and your RPM suddenly plunges because the idle valve is nearly fully closed. So set your lockouts like below should sort most of it.

It would be highly recommended. I have found some engines have pretty significant variation in trigger offset. +/-3deg is not uncommon. So if the car our basemap come from was a "+3 deg" and your car is a "-3" then your timing could be 6 degs different than what the numbers in the ign table show. Having said that - it will depend a lot on the tuners level of competency as well. I never touch a car without first checking the trigger offset and confirming there is no timing drift or scatter through the rev range, im not sure everyone does. If the car was tuned steady state to MBT in every cell then trigger offset wouldnt matter so much - but many tuners dont and they may just assume the numbers in the ignition table are gospel.

If its a two wire solenoid then yes you should be fine to connect +12V constant to one side and lowside drive the other side directly with an Aux. I suspect the note in the help file was probably based on using the factory loom which has one side of the solenoid permanently grounded.

Does windows do the "ding dong" when you plug in the USB cable? In device manager does it show up under ports COM & LPT similar to my pic beloiw?

Looks like you have the wiring reversed to me, its normally moulded into the housing:

Yes they are a dumb coil, you will need an ignitor. The pin marked "GND" in the pic below is the secondary winding ground, this should ground on the cyl head, the other two +/- pins are the primary.

You dont need ECU hold power wiring, that is only required for installs with a stepper motor that needs to reset after the ignition is turned off. I will attach a basic 4 Cyl wiring diagram if I can find it. You can do the boost switch a couple of different ways. One is as you mentioned with the switch connected to a DI. However this does use up a DI and the atom only has two. The second option is just have the switch on the 12V supply side of the solenoid - then you just turn power off to the solenoid so it runs on spring pressure. That doesnt use a DI then but means in low boost mode you may loose some of the benefits of electronic boost control such as bleeding the wastegate during spool for quicker build. I only have a Monsoon V8 wiring diagram handy, but this will at least cover the main relay side etc.

The settings overflow/underflow will be solved with a firmware update - basically it is just a scary warning that there is a setting out of bounds, it wont effect the way it runs. The re-lock thing sounds more worrisome, like some serious interference or something. Does it have resistor sparkplugs fitted?