Adamw

No you cant combine two outputs, if one wire ever has a bad connection it will put twice as much current through the single output. If you fry it, it will not be covered by warranty. Injector drives are very robust but have no active overcurrent protection as far as I know. The E-throttle chipset rated continuous output current is 5A provided temperature is under control. Active current limiting starts somewhere between 5.2 & 6.5A depending on temp.

It could be something like incorrect cam timing, a worn cam, or a restriction on the intake or exhaust side of the engine.

I cant really say for sure since you havent mentioned what ecu/car you have. But assuming it is the S13 or S15 ecu then most likely your AFM signal is on AN Volt 4.

No. As I mentioned earlier you appear to have an airflow issue. You have the same injector pulse width and same fuel pressure at 3700RPM as you do at 6500RPM. So, if you are putting in the same amount of fuel and are measuring the same AFR, then that means the airflow/VE is the same at both RPM's. The shape of your fuel table reflects the amount of air that the engine is flowing. If it is dropping off at high RPM, that means your VE is dropping off at high RPM. This would suggest an air flow problem, not a tune problem.

Tuning cam timing is just like tuning ignition timing and injection timing, you can really only do it by holding it steady state on a dyno and moving the cams until best torque output is achieved. If you dont have a dyno then you will just have to have an educated guess. In general the Intake cam will be zero at idle, max advance at cruise and all the way up to around peak torque RPM then back to zero at redline. Exhaust cam curve will be similar but retard instead of advance. So zero at idle, max retard at cruise up to peak torque, then back to zero at high RPM.

You will need a relay, you cannot directly drive a 7A load. Injector drives can do 5A continuous in aux output mode, GP Aux outputs can do 2A.

The same setup should work for the G4. Does a Link ECU show up in the realdash serial port settings? Have you tried some other device like a USB mouse in your OTG adapter? Did you powercycle the ECU after having PC Link connected?

You have possibly reached your allowance. You will have to use a host. Try uploading to imgbb.com then copy the viewer link and paste into your thread.

I dont see anything else to suggest from the info you have given. Is the spark edge set to falling? Has the factory ignitor been removed? Is your timing light a non-advance type? Are you checking timing with an HT lead between coil and spark plug?

Your base postion table and the max clamp dont look normal to me. The GM stepper motors can move about 250steps, so generally your max clamp would be somewhere up around 200. The numbers in the base position table represent "Steps from fully open", so you basically have it jammed fully open all the time. Generally you would have numbers around 100-200 at normal running temp and smaller numbers at the left hand end when cold (small numbers means more open). You may need to open the throttle blade a bit more if it wont idle with more normal numbers in the base position table (set in open loop). Also, your RPM lockout wants to be somewhere around 400RPM. Are you sure the ecu hold power is working correctly so the valve is resteing after power off? If you turn the ignition off when the laptop is still connected - does the laptop stay connected for the 10second hold power timeout?

Run a cam angle test on each cam. Set test pulse count to 2. Check that the cam angle numbers are stable during the test (+/-1deg), if they are not then it would suggest the cam sensor pattern is different to the M52. Use the lowest cam angle number from the cam angle test as the offset.

Will need a log.

Thats the problem, the ecu wouldnt have known which one to use either. You can work out which is which by unplugging one and seeing which one shows an error in the software. This ecu is from an era before ecu's had triggerscopes... If its using the subaru V7-10 JDM trigger mode then you can try setting the trigger 2 lockout to about 4000RPM and that will make the ecu ignore the cam sensor above that. That was sometimes needed to solve trigger issues on some models that had a lot of movement in the cam drive system.

It will only pull 100mA or so but something like a 5A fuse will protect it.

Did you try driving? Reluctor sensors voltage is proportional to speed so they wont output enough voltage at low speeds.

Please attach a log and the map. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

If your gauge is outputting 9V on the white wire then either the gauge is faulty or your wiring is faulty. It should only output either a 0-1V, 1-2V or 0-5V signal depending on the position of the dial switch on the back. It should not be capable of outputting anymore than 5V.

Yes, your settings should be fine. Since you only have 4 teeth you can run the filter quite high with no negative effect. Level 2 would be suggested.

This should do it:

Unfortunately "start switch" is not something you can do directly via CAN in the G4+. The only work around is if you have a spare aux output and real DI, then you can activate the aux output via CAN which is then connected to a real DI.

I havent used one for many years and have always got away with it. However if I was going to use one I would go for something like a UBZ111 or a ford yl1z-18801-aa

Ok, perhaps there is another aux connected to something live. For some of the stuff that has a relay or fuse you can test by getting it to back feed then pulling the relay/fuse for each aux circuit and if it suddenly switches off then you have found the culprit. Some of them may not be easy to test that way so for those you will have to pull one wire out at a time and do an on/off test.

We want to know what voltage AN Volt 5 is reporting. It should be 2.5V with the sensor unplugged. If it is not then you either have wired it wrong or your AEM device is faulty.

Oh man, sorry I just noticed something very obvious that I missed earlier. Your trigger 1 & 2 are swapped over. You should have the 12 teeth on trigger 1 and the single tooth on trig two but yours is opposite. You dont need to change wiring as the plug-in ecu has dip switches to allow for the different R32/R34 wiring. Have a look at which position your switches are in now and move them to the alternative setting.

Ok, I dont see much wrong in your setup. But with zero RPM nothing is going to happen. I have seen before a problem where G4+ does not initialise the triggers correctly after a major change has been made to the trigger settings. Can you try this: Change trigger mode to Subaru V1-6. Do a store and power cycle. This will reinitialise and overwrite all trigger settings. Once reconnected then change your trigger settings back to how they are now and see if you have RPM.