Adamw

The Link ecu only has 2 knock sensor inputs, you cant use the 3rd. Leave as is for now, use the trigger scope to confirm if the waveform is correct or upside down. If upside down then swap the +/- wires. Plug and play would be a bit of a stretch, you have 12 injectors and ign wires to move, you need to free up an appropriate aux and DI for the vanos by moving some existing stuff to the expansion loom, you have to disconnect the vanos ECU and then reroute the vanos solenoid and sensor wires to the ECU. I dont like to repin these as everyone I have seen that has been repinned has had the internal barbs damaged inside the connector housing so the terminals are no longer secure. There is a better version of the same plug used by Cosworth and Life racing that is not so fragile but they have been obsolete for a few years so they getting expensive and it is a big job to replace if you do damage it.

This is why im suggesting you check the TPS calibration again, if one throttle is open more than the other then there will be more air on one side. If that looks ok then probably an air leak, either intake or exhaust leak will cause a big lambda variation. Having said that, it is not uncommon to see significant bank-to-bank imbalance at small throttle openings with dual plenum intake manifolds, so dont waste too much time on it unless it remains at higher flows or causes drivability issues.

The "lock timing to" setting only affects what the timing is locked to when you are setting the timing, with that window open, any other time it will have absolutely no effect on anything. You dont have an air temp sensor connected so fix that first. You havent set the base timing or adjusted the master fuel, these are the first adjustments you should make and are listed in the "First Time Start-up" section of the manual, so go back and read that section and if you follow it you will likely end up with something that runs good enough to then consider tuning.

Your closed TPS main voltages on TPS1 Vs TPS2 are quite different, I would generally expect them to be closer than that, usually within about 0.05V of each other. I would set E-throttle to quiet mode and push each throttle closed by hand to confirm those voltages are correct.

Oh, thats an interesting observation. I will try to reproduce that when I get a minute.

Sorry for the slow reply, I've been away for a week. The scope looks ok. A PC log would be helpful to confirm all other data looks ok. I dont know this engine well, but possibly if you have had the cam sensor/distributor out it may now be fitted in a different position which could change the trigger offset by +/-180 or +/-360?

There is no log in the zip file, just a windows shortcut link. A log is probably not going to help much anyhow, you will need to trace the wiring to find out why there is still voltage on the Ign sw pin after you turned the ign sw off. It must be coming from something else connected to that same ign switch circuit.

To make sure we are talking about the same engine, Im referring to the European S50B30, not the USA model that had a similar code S50B30US. The euro S50B30 has high pressure intake vanos, which uses two solenoids to control the intake cam. The vanos system on this engine is originally controlled by a separate "vanos ecu" which gets commands from the engine ecu via CAN or possibly some other type of communication network. There are also two extra cam position sensors connected to the vanos ecu. For the link to control vanos you would need to wire the vanos solenoids and the rear cam sensor to the Link ecu. I only have some brief notes on the pinout differences from the last time I looked at it for someone else, the other main differences I have noted are Injectors and coils are wired in a different firing order, there is a 3rd knock sensor, and possibly the crank sensor is wired in opposite polarity to the M50.

I would suspect it is damaged or faulty in that case. Contact [email protected] to arrange to have it inspected.

I have seen it before, cant really remember when or why, but it wasn't unexpected, most likely when I was swapping between an experimental firmware and normal release or similar. I think that message might have a typo in it though, it would make more sense to if it said "restore to factory command" rather than store command. Reloading the map will correct it.

Piggyback means you would have 2 ecu's connected. I would cut the factory plug off, crimp the Link plug on in place of the factory one. There will likely need to be some small changes to wiring such as a relay added in to trigger the factory factory EFI relay etc.

Development of G4 and V series software ended in 2013.

The holden V6 VVT mode will likely work for this engine.

A PWM output at "100%" is actually 99.9%, so its possible the solenoid is quick enough that you can just hear that 0.1% "off time". I dont remember hearing it on the car that map came from but not all solenoids are the same. Apart from the different noise I dont think behaviour will be affected.

That is most likely just part of life when you have a big turbo and a gearbox capable of fast shifts but with large ratio changes. The wastegate DC drops below 15% in all of those spikes so the wastegate should be fully open already, the boost control function cant do much further. In your 2-3rd shift for example your RPM drops from ~8200 to 5000 in 0.1s, that means the engine is suddenly inhaling about 40% less air, however the turbo at say ~100kRPM has significant inertia so will take time to reduce its airflow by 40% to match what the engine is taking. A couple of thoughts to explore: Try to reduce exhaust energy - With such retarded ignition you are pumping a lot of the combustion heat into the turbine, you may be able to lower boost and run more optimised timing while still achieving the same power. Try fuel cut instead of ign, add a fuel trim during the shift to reduce EGT. Perhaps the wastegate flow priority can be improved. Possibly a solenoid controlled BOV or other similar bleed on the intake side can be be used to dump some pressure out during a shift.

G4 doesnt have configurable CAN format, you can only load one of the preconfigured LCS files. The one you have shown in your screenshot is the racetechnology stream which uses a standard single frame type message (called sequential in G4). All data is sent as 16bit values. So in this example a single frame will be sent out using ID 100 (0x64) the first two bytes will be IAT, Bytes 2&3 will be ECT, bytes 4&5 will be MAP and bytes 6&7 will be Ign angle. If you load the generic dash stream, this uses a compound message format (sometimes called multiplexed), this sends all data using just one ID, by spreading the data over multiple frames, Byte zero has a "Frame ID", byte 1 is empty, then byte 2-7 contain the three 16bit channels fo data. This is explained in more detail if you click the help button at the bottom of the CAN setup screen. The content and layout of the Generic dash stream is also shown in the help file page: G4 ECU Tuning Functions > CAN > Device Specific CAN Information. I have attached a DBC for the generic dash stream for your info, the lambda/wideband scaling will be different in G4 but the rest of it should match I think. Generic Dash.dbc

Yeah, agree with Electredge, change Ign retard mode to Degrees or degrees absolute, I generally prefer absolute. In absolute mode "-20deg" means its fixed at 20deg ATDC, the main ign table is ignored. In Degrees mode, -20deg means it will remove 20deg from whatever value is currently being commanded from the normal ignition calculation. I think you will also need to increase the exit decay rate which will make the "bangs" more regular and generate more energy. Start at 30%/20ms, try at 50 & 70 to see where it likes it.

Note our E36 plug-in is only designed for the M50TU, it wont be plug and play for your car. Assuming it is a euro S50 I think I remember most of the pinout is not too different but there will be a fair bit of wire shuffling required to add the extra cam sensor and the two vanos solenoids. The euro S50B30 doesnt need a special trigger mode, just the generic multitooth/missing mode set up like below. Try the offset around 265. Assuming it still has the ITB's, you will probably want to set it up with alpha-N + MAP type fuel calculation like our GTR base map.

Both your ECU and dash config are fine, most likely a wiring issue. Can you attach some pics of the CAN wiring between ECU and dash?

There would be no need to do a piggyback in this, it is an old basic car with likely very little integration between the ecu and anything else in the car, about as basic as it gets. It would be a bigger job to make it work as a piggyback than it would as a complete replacement. The only integration with the chassis will be a tacho and CE light wire to the dash, a speed input either from the gearbox or speedo, an AC request from the AC amp, and possibly a power steering sw, that will be about it.

Does windows do the normal "ding dong" when you plug the USB cable in? Is there an ecu showing in the com ports section of windows device manager?

The CAN errors are probably just because you have a CAN device/stream set up, but nothing connected. Nothing to worry about. The CAN ports are on the adapter board next to the MAP sensor.

I would start by fixing the fuel settings first. Or better still, turn off multi-fuel and tune the unblended primary fuel first. Multifuel density is set to 99% eth value but the stoich ratio is set to a gasoline value. Lambda target 2 is set to 0.4 Turn off the 4D fuel table.

It looks like all the logic is working correctly to me, possibly just your bump increment (virtual aux 1) is too short. Try it at something more like 0.05 to 0.1s.