Adamw

Note that is not a dash config you've attached, it should have an extension something like .c125v61

Have sent you a PM. XS loom wont help but you will want a decent wideband knock sensor, I cant remember what the VR4's had for a sensor.

If the trigger 1 signal runtime turns green that would suggest the ecu is receiving some type of signal. Are you sure when doing the triggerscope that you clicked the capture button while the engine was cranking? Can you also do a log of it cranking. Here's a quick vid showing how to set up and work the logging: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

There are a few little things in your tune that I would change such as your charge temp table but they arent going to make a massive difference. From the shape of your fuel MAP it seems something is very wrong with fuel delivery. Im suspicious that your injectors are giving erratic behaviour at low pulse-widths. It is normal to have a VE of around 50-60 at idle and ~100% at peak torque. Your VE table has 15.5 at idle and 130-140% at peak. Here's your fuel table. The big steep wall you have between -60 and -40Kpa suggests either air flow or fuel flow is greatly changing with that small increase in load. It is difficult to imagine what would cause air flow to change that much so it is more likely a fuel problem. Your differential fuel pressure jumps up 50Kpa in some areas so that is not great but it seems like something else is going on too. As a comparison, here is a fuel table from my dead stock Evo7 :

You need Aux 9 & 10 for direct E-throttle control and they are not connected to any pins on that ECU. The options would be return it to Link to have some wire links added to make these outputs available, or use the exturnal E-throttle module: http://dealers.linkecu.com/G4RET

For the stepper motor check there is 12V on the two centre pins of the stepper motor plug with the key on. For the tacho, you can put the aux in test mode and check it with a test light.

In the map Simon attached the trig 1 arming threshold looks similar to my suggestion, but trigger 2 is quite a bit higher. I think that is the first thing I would try. Otherwise Im thinking there is a bad connection somewhere.

The G4X is definitely more fussy when it sees a trigger error, it will shut the engine down if it doesnt get a valid sync quickly. For the common Toyota dizzys you need very low arming thresholds at low RPM so it kind of sounds like that is what it is not happy about. Set both trig 1 & 2 like this:

Ok, scope doesnt look too bad in that. Can I get a copy of the map too please. Can you explain how/when the problem occurs better.

Triggerscope and tune please.

What makes you think you have a deadtime problem? The injector deadtime is only going to change the volume of fuel that is delivered when the battery voltage changes. You generally dont tune accel enrichment to give a flat lambda, you tune it so the engine gives crisp response and no flat spots. What is the actual problem? Does the car drive bad or have bad response?

GTR's have low imp stock and have a ballast resistor in series so they should work. The DW ones appear to be a little lower resistance than stock though. Obviously there is no short pulsewidth adder data so leave that table set to zero. For the deadtimes I would use the "driver A" data as it will be closer to how the saturated drivce works but it likely wont be perfect.

Also, It looks like the FZJ100 ecu doesnt have all the outputs available for E-throttle, so you will have to convert the barra to cable operated throttle.

The only option we have is the CAN lambda and that is supplied with a 4.9 sensor, it is not compatible with the LSU4.2. There are plenty of 3rd party options around (both CAN and analog) if the Link one is out of budget.

I would set thresholds to more like 0RPM = 0.2V, 1000RPM = 0.5V. for both trig 1 & 2. You can see at the right hand end of your capture where the crank has slowed down due to compression the amplitude on trig 1 is only about 0.7-0.8V. So you may sometimes not be quite meeting your existing thresholds. You want to be a good margin below that to allow for colder weather, flat battery etc.

can you attach the actual dash config, not just the CAN template.

You can either do away with CE Light or AC as I have already said above or you could change the idle valve to a two wire type which will free up another 3 aux outputs.

Can you do a scope capture of it cranking with fuel pump on?

Obviously length plays a part as well, but for the 2 heater wires I would use 20AWG, 22 or 24 will be fine for the other 4.

The "Find devices" tab is only for programming Link CAN Lambda's. It will not discover any 3rd party devices. Your config looks ok. Are you getting no live data on the dash? There arent any CAN errors showing in the ECU file. Is the CAN lambda working? What do the diagnostics in the dash show?

An Xtreme will need an external controller. It can be a CAN bus type or an analog type. Only the Fury and Thunder ECU's have wideband controllers built-in.

Obviously AC or the CE light wont work without them so that is up to you.

Do you have software or any documentation for it? I dont see anything on their website. Im suspicious from that era it probably doesnt support CAN and may be a fixed proprietary serial stream only.

Yes that should be fine. It is a digital signal so not too sensitive to ground offsets. The switching threshold on the DI's is about 1V, so as long as there is less than 1V offset between ECU ground and Engine ground (highly unlikely) it will be happy.