Adamw

Hmm, Ok, I dont know, I have never heard of this method outside of some bmw/minis. I suspect from an ECU point of view it will be no different - just the valve will be plumbed so it is NO instead of NC. More duty cycle means more vacuum to the wastegate which means more boost.

Attach your dash config and ECU map and I can set it up.

There may still be room for improvement. I think I remember your idle ign table was a bit odd. Attach another log and tune again when you have a chance.

Sounds like you've figured it out, but just FYI, "Sequential" injection mode in the G4+ will give exactly the same control strategy as the "semi-sequential" mode in the G4X - assuming a Monsoon wired to a V8 as above. The new semi-seq mode in the G4X is just to allow more flexibility with some of the engines that have an odd firing order that dont fit the pairing requirement of the G4+.

The RS one you linked to is only for switching AC so that wont work. Look for the equivalent but DC on the output side. You dont need a pull-up resistor, the Haltech ECU's dont have a pull-up on their aux outputs whereas the Link does. Most of these industrial SSR's arent designed to PWM inductive loads so I think you may need to grossly oversize it (notice the Haltech one is 100A) for reliability and you cant PWM them very fast, about 100Hz or so.

As far as I know on the mini's the power to the ecu, injectors and coils is cut as soon as you turn the ignition off, so Im not sure if the ecu could cause it to "diesel". Maybe you have a leaky fuel injector or two? I guess if there was a badly wired accessory or something it could back feed and potentially keep the ecu alive after key off. One check you can do to confirm power is being cut - with your laptop connected to ecu, turn off ignition and check that ecu disconnects from PC link right away.

It is not really anymore more difficult to wire a monsoon to a V8 than any other engine. However if you have little experience with wiring you may find it tough and will need some patience. Obviously the Terminator X would be easier since it is designed specifically for the US V8 market and comes with a fully plug and play loom. Note the Monsoon wont be able to control a GM stepper motor idle valve. I assume it is a cable throttle engine? I can probably knock up a basic wiring diagram if it helps. I suggest you start by having a read of the wiring information section in the PC Link help file however.

You will need to wire in a E-throttle relay no matter which ecu you have. Wiring info for the E-throttle relay is in the help file page: Wiring Information > Output Wiring > E-Throttle > Generic Internal E-Throttle Wiring

What do you mean by negative pressure?

Can you measure the voltage on the AC request wire with the switch on, off and with the fan in different positions.

Do you have other custom streams set up also? It shouldnt complain if all you are sending is my broken down version of the generic dash stream. From memory there is a max of 50 parameters total, this includes stuff you have on other streams. The preconfigured streams are not counted in that limit, so one workaround I sometimes need to employ is use the preconfigured Generic dash or the Dash2pro streams as these include the bulk of the common variables like RPM, MAP etc, then set up a custom stream to send only the extra stuff you want that is missing from the preconfigured.

If its still reporting an error then you have the error settings wrong. The error settings I suggested above will completely disable the error/fault functionality. Can you attach your tune.

You have a CAN anti-theft request active in the hot cranking log, this is a message that comes from the immobilizer to tell the ECU if it is permitted to start or not. It is possible that the G35 immobilizer is a bit different than the 350Z in this regard. The quick fix will just be to turn off this feature. Go to >chassis & body > Anti-theft and set allow CAN anti-theft request to no.

No, the baud rate setting only relates to the broadcast data, not PC comms. I dont know of any smart phones than have an RS232 or CAN port? Most have a USB port though, which is why the recommended connection is USB. You can use OBD2 if you buy a 3rd party OBD2 wifi or bluetooth dongle, but the OBD2 protocol is much slower than the direct USB/serial.

The Nissan speedo's generally require an AC signal (i.e. voltage must go above and below zero) to work, the ECU can only output a DC signal. You can try using the basic decoupling circuit below to produce a pseudo AC signal, I have used it with success on a skyline before so hopefully will do it. And yes, connect the gearbox sensor to a DI and set an aux output to speedo.

The whole idea of CAN bus is you can have multiple devices all talking in different directions via the same two wires. The only limitation is they must all talk at the same bit rate. Your dash and CAN lambda both have configurable bitrates and so that is fine. Standard CAN bus wiring should look like this:

#1 scope is the correct polarity. Yes, it appears you have some ignition noise coming through, get it running first then do some more scopes to confirm. I would typically want numbers no smaller than about 20 in the fuel table otherwise you have less adjustment resolution. I would expect master to be more around the 5ms ballpark but that is just a guess.

Looking at those specs those are all normal "fully home" numbers. Since your opening/closing events dont match the spec sheet then it would be best to work off lobe centres. To find the lobe centre just mark the protractor when the valve is about 0.010" before full lift, then again 0.010" after full lift and your lobe centre is half way between those two points. The 107 on the intake is degrees ATDC and the 113 on exhaust is BTDC

So have you changed from the T1 cam trigger now? If you are using the distributor as a trigger but have COP then the position of the distributor and rotor phasing doesnt matter - just lock it up anywhere and adjust the trigger offset until the timing marks line up. If you are using the distributor and single coil then clamp the distributor in the centre of the adjustment slot will usually be ok, then again use the trigger offset to give the correct timing.

So from those screenshots you should now set 17.3 deg for your offset on DI1 (assuming Left cam is connected to DI1) and 18.5 for your offset on DI2.

Wire pigtails would be added to the board to bring out Aux 9 & 10 as well as they would probably give you a couple of extra analog inputs since the VR4 board is pretty limited and you will need them for 2 x TPS and 2 x pedal sensors. There are also a couple of changes needed to the main power supply circuit to give the e-throttle H-bridge controller 12V. You will need to ship it back to Link NZ and it is about NZD$150 job last I heard (just to give you an idea - need to confirm yourself).

The unlock code has to come from the dealer that sold you the ecu.

Sounds like you probably have the error settings wrong. Set the AN Volt function to 0-5V and set error low to 0.0 and error high to 5.0v. Then test by connecting the AN Volt to the ground wire and the 5V wire (also on exp loom).

The sensor is a dual pole type - it can sense a north or south magnet. so 1 of the magnets are facing one way (say north out) this is the sync signal and then 12 evenly spaced magnets are facing the opposite way (South Pole out) these are your trigger 1 “teeth”. To determine the offset you just need to put a timing light on it and adjust it until you’re timing marks line up. It is explained in the help file under trigger calibration.

That shouldnt matter, the ECU side will be grounded when ignition is off also, so you will effectively have both side of the relay coiled grounded.