Adamw

You didn’t post the most important bit - the launch rpm table. Also make sure you have a non driven wheel speed set up in the chassis and body menu.

Can you give us a copy of your map.

Can you attach the actual log and your tune file.

When its off (no etc input assigned), it just defaults to a fixed value. I can’t remember exactly what but 80-90C from memory. Temporarily set the error low to 0v and the error high to 5V to prevent the fault settings having an influence. To check the wiring is ok, if you unplug the sensor it should read full cold, then if you jumper the two wires together it should read maximum temp.

No they should be freely interchangeable to any PC, there is no way to encrypt them as far as I know. It sounds like he must be doing something wrong like trying to open a G4+ layout in G4 software or something?

You will only have two wires soldered into the CANF plug as per the pic above, CAN H & CAN L. It will then not interrupt PC communication.

You will need some type of knock detection device to listen to a knock sensor. We make a device called the knockblock or there are other 3rd party options around. http://dealers.linkecu.com/G4PlusKnockBlock

Check that the display scaling is set to 100%, I have seen PC Link do weird stuff like this if the scaling is not at 100%.

I dont see what you are talking about in your log, differential fuel pressure is far from the best I have seen but seems to control ok, in the power runs log it varies from about 330KPa to 360KPa. In the other log differential is more like 380KPa.

Since you only have a flywheel sensor and no cam sensor you cant do sequential, only multigroup and wasted spark ignition. So the injectors will be fired in pairs whether you wire them in pairs or individually. You will also need to confirm they are high impedance injectors. Assuming yours is the 8V engine that uses 132 ring gear teeth for the main reference, the sensor that measures the 132 teeth goes to trigger 1, the single tooth sensor goes to trigger 2. Be aware however that this trigger system can be quite difficult - especially as the ring gear teeth get worn.

What are the headphones connected to? Some type of knock detection device?

Yep, based on the numbers adjacent I would wack about 61 in that cell.

It will be easier if you can give us a log of this happening. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A I see a couple of problems in your tune you can fix. Gear shift control is enabled and is being triggered by DI2 which is your ignition switch. Change "start shift mode" to off will disable this. I doubt it is doing anything but switch it off to eliminate it. There is a random high number in your fuel table, @ 2500RPM, 150KPa, again it is unlikely that will ever be used but still it would be better without it.

If it works in setup mode but gives fault code 73 in ON mode then it is likely one of the safety systems kicking in. Note, you need to power cycle the ECU to reset the safety system once it has kicked in. As per my post in that thread you linked, the first thing to do is log it and look at the error accumulators.

A log and map would possibly help. Also some info about the engine and fuel etc.

You proposed idea will do it fine.

That's really the wrong cable, it will still work (green & white connected as per Richards comment), just it will likely interrupt PC comms so you will only be able to have either the dash or the laptop connected but not both at the same time. Our general recommendation is CAN PCB and CANF plug as per below. Another option is if you cut the CANDASH cable so it is very short (<~200mm) it will also usually work ok.

Your setup is correct at the ECU end (assuming he means ID 1100 is decimal, not hex).. Can you show us some screenshots of the settings at the perfect tuning end, there is nothing in their manual that says it is able to be configured for custom CAN streams.

So with the engine off, ignition on, if you set Aux 5 to "Test (on)", does the fuel pump run and keep running?

Install the latest G4 or G4+ pclink, this will install drivers that will work with the G3.

This thread is from 2007 and relates to a G1 ecu. If your crank enrichment numbers are in percent then it sounds like you have a G4 or G4+. The number relates to “percent increase”, So a bigger number will give more fuel.

No, nothing bad can happen. If the ecu has 5.6.6 firmware it just won’t connect to 5.6.5. If you can’t connect send me a pm and I will give you the latest test release to use.

Yes 14 x 10 is the biggest you can go. Remember it is only a target, you don’t need a huge amount of breakpoints like a fuel table as you don’t have any of the non-linearities due to engine dynamics etc. Typically your target will mostly vary with load and won’t want much variation with RPM.

A base map is just some basic settings to get the engine started and in most cases allow it to be driven gently, it is not a fully tuned map. You can put whatever axes you like on that table, TP is common, but I think MAP makes more sense in most cases assuming MAP is stable and represents engine load well. As for numbers in the table, the idea is just like tuning the ignition table, your valve timing to achieve maximum torque at each cell. As you can see even the factory ROM has lots of cells with the same numbers in them so it is not necessary to have so many cells, I always start with a very basic table with a minimum amount of cells, say 1000RPM and 50Kpa increments, then only add more rows and columns if needed.

The factory "post supercharger" MAP sensor is normally used, it is rated for 2.5Bar absolute (approx 1.5Bar boost), assuming you are not planning to run boost higher than that then the factory one is fine. This is already set up in our base map so you dont need to do anything, it will work out of the box. The pre-supercharger sensor is also connected to the ECU and can be logged or used for diagnostics but it is generally not used as part of the engine control. For the CAN lambda, the most common method to connect is by using our CANPCB adapter cable and the mating CANF plug, you still need to run your own wires from the CAN Lambda to the CANF plug though. A pic to show this set up is below. Some dealers may also offer a pre-fabricated loom to make life easier, here is an example from NZEFI: http://www.nzefi.com/wp-content/uploads/NZEFI-Link-G4-G4-ECU-to-CAN-Device-Cables.jpg