Adamw

It is possible that the usb cable could be damaged, but I think unlikely. What ecu do you have - is it a plug-in or wire-in? Have you got a laptop with a proper USB port rather than a OTG port/adapter? In windows device manager do you have a Link ECU showing under Ports (COM & LPT)? similar to below:

Yes, probably. Replying from my phone while eating breakfast so going from memory. It is the pin next to or below the 2 knock pins labeled shield/gnd.

Yes to both. In our Link looms the trigger grounds and shields are connected to A7, the knock sensor grounds and shields are connected to B7. But they can all be spliced to the one pin if that works better for you.

You will need to do something more like this:

Hydraulic lifters should have zero lash and be near silent. If they are making that much noise you cant hear knock then there is either something wrong with them or the rocker geometry or cam profile.

You said in your first post "I have successfully got to read Fuel Level on my ECU via Analog Input 5 in Volts.", so do you have a fuel level reading in PC link or not? Do you have a pull-up resistor and filtering circuit wired? Can you attach you ecu and dash configs?

I have only had a chance for a very brief look, but my initial feeling is the speed lockout for idle ignition control is too low. It is currently locked out above 2kmh so it is not taking any action when you are moving. Try it at around 10kmh looks like it would capture those situations better. Can you also update to the latest firmware as it looks like the speed lockout for the idle valve control is not honouring the setting either (unless you changed that after the log was taken). Im pretty sure that normally works. BTW, 120Hz is about right for the ford valves.

I think your tuner sent me your map earlier and I found it had a setting wrong in the CAN stream, I have sent him back a copy with the setting fixed, hopefully fuel level will now work as expected.

Here's a video showing how to do it: https://1drv.ms/u/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPoEQkoIc_i2gdxsS7

They are all multipliers so they are all applied on top of each other. I think the graph in the help file explains it reasonably well: Usually if the injectors are not excessively large and the battery voltage is reasonably consistent they wont have a big impact if they are a little off, it will just get baked in to the fuel table numbers. Very. Set up an ECU log so that it is always recording a basic set of parameters, then at least after the fact you can download some data later on that may help give you some direction.

Whats the resistance of your injectors?

You will not need anything like that. 2.0 ramping up to 3.0ms at peak cylinder pressure is about all you will need for most applications. Only give it more if you find a misfire at high cylinder pressures. Anything more and the coils are just going to run hotter and die faster. These coils were originally designed to replace CDI on a 2 stroke Mercury outboard so they are designed specifically to put out high energy with a short charge time. They will certainly put out more energy with higher dwells if needed but one of my customers has them on a 300HP/cyl 70psi methanol engine and only needs 4.5ms. They actually put out a fairly hefty spark even at 2.0ms. This setting only really comes into play on a V8 with a distributor where there is a lack of cycle time to charge and discharge the coil 8 times per cycle. If the ECU knows the spark duration it can automatically shorten dwell time at high RPM if it is not going to fit into the available cycle time. Put 2.0ms in there and that will never come into play in your case anyway. Highly unlikely, I dont expect any issues here.

Yes that will be fine, the cam sensor is not very critical with a missing tooth crank wheel. Just make sure the cam tooth you keep passes the sensor well away from when the missing teeth on the crank pass the crank sensor.

So if you clear the error, do a store, then power cycle, does the error come straight back?

Your exit decay rate is set to 1%/20ms, that means a 100% cut will take 2000ms before full power is restored. A more common decay would be something like 50%.

Might need a new log.

The GT101's are usually fine on evenly spaced teeth, they dont like missing teeth patterns. I dont think you need to change sensors yet.

Most tuners I talk to and my own personal experience you will get a better clarity just using good quality earbuds with earmuffs over the top. Some suggestions here from a similar question on "Guild of EFI tuners" a couple of weeks ago:

Idle control setting shouldnt effect the fueling so I suspect there may be something else going on.

Is it possible to rotate that cam tooth a little? It appears something has moved a little and the edges are getting closer to clashing again. There is still a bit of margin in these two triggerscopes but its closer than I would like and with a bit of belt slap/valve train resonance etc it could well occasionally clash. The two pink lines are what Im talking about (cam rising, crank falling), it would be nice if you could get the cam rising edge somewhere a little further to the left, more like where I have placed the red line (advance the cam tooth a little).

For whatever reason Toyota decided to have fuel consumption data as part of the gauge control. I suspect it possibly varies the gauge needle to reflect a "distance to empty" rather than just a fuel level. The only way the ECU can calculate fuel consumption is by using modelled mode so it knows fuel pressure and the size of the injectors etc. This was something we learned sometime after we designed that ECU. I believe the ECU's have been shipping with the modelled map I attached above installed for some time now. The current PC link still has the traditional map but that has been changed to a modelled map in the next release. So possibly someone loaded an old traditional map back into yours?

I believe your typical ~5W, 30Hz boost valve is ok without flyback, some of our plug-ins such as evo8 have them connected to Ign drives with nothing else added. For idle solenoids you will need a flyback diode.

Correct, it is not going to work with the cal table input in ohms - this calculation only works for a 1K pull-up.

I suspect you will also have a high-level tacho in that car so it may either need to be modified or a tacho booster in between ECU & tacho.

Then Ign 7 or 8 would be the easiest. 1 wire from the solenoid goes to a switched +12V supply, the other wire goes to the expansion connector, ign 7 or 8.