Adamw

You will have to clarify your question as it doesnt make sense to me. Have you done the trigger calibration with a timing light?

M62 has a hall cam sensor and cam level sync mode will work with that cam pattern since it has a high and low 180deg apart. Assuming this "M62" scope from google matches yours and the cam was at "home" during this capture, you would perform the sync test on sync tooth 1. All the ecu does is checks if the cam level is high or low at the sync tooth. Polarity or rising/falling is irrelevant. The cam can advance about 70 deg without messing up sync in this example, up to 140deg if you really needed it by choosing the right sync tooth.

46 would be the most appropriate of those.

I have set it up on CAN 2. Note the MCE is set to 500kbit/s bit rate by default but the CAN lambda is 1Mbit, both must be the same to work on the same bus. Probably easiest to change the CAN lambda. To do this, power up ecu without the MCE connected, go to CAN devices > find devices and the lambda should be found. Change the dropdown to 500Kbit and hit send. Then go back to the CAN mode tab and change CAN 2 bit rate to 500Kbit, hit apply, ok, do a store, then power cycle ECU and lambda, it should then be working at 500K so you can plug in the MCE and it should work. MCE Analog 0-8 is Link CAN Analog 1-9. MCE DIN0-7 is Link CAN Digital 1-8. Link CAN Aux 1-3 controls MCE Aux 1-3. The MCE cant do PWM/Tacho, it can only do basic on/off. 48 Chev v1.6a.pclx

Yes, for either of the 24T ones, I would grind a tooth off to make it 24-1. The missing tooth gives faster sync and means the position of the cam sensor is not critical. The 60-2 would be fine also, but it is quite big at 200mm dia. The crank sensor we sell is a VR type from a ford focus I think, they work well with the tooth size on any of our wheels. If you want something more specific, I have various 3D models I can generate a custom size dxf that you could get laser cut locally.

Yeah you are on old experimental 5.6.3 firmware that was never released to public as far as I can see. So in PC Link, go to >help>about and check you are using the latest version (5.6.8). Assuming you are then it will already have the newer firmware files on your laptop so you can use the firmware update tool to update the ecu. If your PC Link version is something older, then download and install 5.6.8 from here: https://www.linkecu.com/pclink/PCLink G4+ EN-JP V5.6.8.3669 Setup.exe?_gl=1*1uah0x1*_ga*MTIxMjM1MzU2MS4xNjA4NDk4NDc3*_ga_YGEEXMZ8NR*MTcwNTQ4MDc4MS4xNDAuMS4xNzA1NDgxNDY1LjE3LjAuMA..

Yes I can imagine getting to the flywheel would be a major pain in one of those. 24-1, 36-1, or 36-2 on the front would all be good options. I wouldnt be too fussed about hall or VR, as long as the tooth design suits the sensor. VR typically needs short sharp teeth with a half depth missing tooth area while hall effect typically need bigger/longer teeth. VR is actually more accurate and has better signal to noise ratio at high speed (when it matters) - but not anything you would notice on an engine like this. You could possibly even cut teeth directly into the OD of the balancer (if that is what the red thing is).

What specific ecu do you have?

One pin is ground and the other is signal. The signal wire will have a pull-up connected to it in the gauge. So the ecu AN Volt needs to be connected to the same signal wire as the gauge (the one that is not at ground).

Can you attach the actual log file from the ecu (.llgx). What fuel are you using? 10:1 with boost and pump gas is going to result in some compromises. A couple of comments from a quick look at the incomplete data provided: Ign advance is very low around the 0kpa area and coming into boost. I would normally expect 25-30deg around there. Your logged ign angle during the pull starts at 8 and reduces to 6 at the top end, and you have up to 2.5 deg of knock retard being applied on top of that on and off throughout the pull. IAT climbs to a high temp very quickly. Suggesting either the compressor is not happy, the IC is restrictive or the IC is not efficient. Lambda is excessively rich for 12psi boost. The Toyota ignitors dont like much dwell and will current limit if working too hard. Usually around 1.8ms is the most they will take. However, this is usually a very noticeable misfire so not sure if this is relevant in this case.

Can you provide a PC log of a bad cold start? My initial thoughts would be towards things like trigger arming thresholds or ign dwell not suitable when battery voltage is lower and cranking is slow.

Correct, except pin 11 has the same function as factory. Aux 7/Pin11 will be best for the boost valve. Correct, or the expansion loom. Correct, although a DI typically doest need 5V or sensor gnd. Connect switch to any chassis ground or 12V is fine. It is a sensor ground. Our ECU doesnt use it, the factory ecu would use it to retain "memory", so things like fault codes and long term O2 trims can be cleared by disconnecting the battery.

Not sure what you mean here, there shouldnt be 5V connected anywhere. Your gauge is displaying the voltage on AN Volt 2 pin. You should have the ECT runtime displayed on the gauge. The gauge range, warning levels, divisions, decimal places, etc can all be changed in the gauge properties. If it is set to "Use parameter display min/max" it will use the global parameter settings. No, provided the gauge uses a 5V pull-up and not 12V then it will be best to share the sensor as you propose.

Your pic hasnt worked, but yes that all sounds ok. Another option for the IAT is to wire to the MAF plug which is already in the engine bay with AN Temp 2 and a ground in it.

They operate as a current controlled source when high and the lowside drive is over current and over temperature protected. I havent seen them damaged from dumb coils before.

Most likely a backfeed through an aux. Do you have any non-factory wiring connected to aux outputs - fuel pump, boost valve etc? Can you also explain what the Kaizen relay is connected to.

Your symptoms sound like it is not syncing on the correct engine phase sometimes, causing it to spark on the exhaust stroke rather than compression. However your trigger scope looks ok and when I test on the bench with a simulated trigger pattern that matches yours, I get correct sync for every start. Below are the first 8 start up tests I done, you can see ign events are always in the same location relative to camshaft. Can you try doing a few more trigger scope captures when cranking, perhaps your cam sensor doesnt work sometimes?

The innovate wideband controllers are POS so avoid that like the plague. The X-series generally work ok, I suggest you connect the "AEMNet" wires to the Link CAN H/L to get the more accurate CAN data.

Can you attach the actual trigger scope log file and a copy of the tune. It looks like the scope is displaying the trigger 1 waveform as a hall rather than a reluctor which I haven't seen before so I suspect you may be running a very old firmware that has a bug in the scope capture. It also looks like the crank sensor may be wired with incorrect polarity but we would want to get the scope capture working correctly to confirm that.

Trying to think of a better way to explain it but having difficulty finding the right words. You can think of the fuel table as an indication of volumetric air flow, or air flow assuming the density was standard atmosphere conditions (ie boost pressure only affects the mass, not the volume). Anything that restricts the volume of air the cylinder inhales will reduce the fuel table number. So yes, increasing the restriction or "back pressure" on the exhaust side would reduce the fuel table number just like a partially closed throttle etc on the intake side. The fuel map shape will reflect the torque curve assuming the engine was NA, then boost pressure is basically a multiplier on top.

If you go to the runtime screen (F12), then right arrow across to G5 tab, what does GPS status and GPS fix status show there?

There appear to be a few variations but it looks like the security light is controlled by pin 39 in the connector at the back of the cluster. It is a brown/red wire in this diagram. This would probably be the easiest place to disconnect as the other end can go to either the BCM or keyless entry module depending on options.

Even in traditional mode the the injector pulse width is already multiplied by MAP and target lambda, so assuming volumetric efficiency is relatively constant then the fuel table number shouldn't change with boost. The traditional fuel table should give a similar shape as a modelled/VE fuel table.

If you attach the map I can load it into a monsoon here to convert it.

The 2012-2014 models arent yet fully supported as I haven't been able to find a car locally to test. CEL and airconditioning in some regions wont currently work in these cars. I have been working remotely with a couple of US dealers when they have access to this year model but I haven't yet been able to figure it out. So this will likely be fixed with a future update. The security/immobiliser lamp doesnt work in the key start models that have the separate immobiliser, this is common with any aftermarket ecu in these cars. The factory ecu and immobiliser ECU has an encrypted serial coms and they need to be "paired" with a dealer level tool. The lamp could be disabled by pulling a wire out of the plug at the back of the cluster. Hill assist will likely just be the missing clutch switch. You can try assigning the clutch switch function to a math block and leave the equation empty, if that doesnt work, try 1 as the equation.