Adamw

As a quick test to see if more or less fuel helps, try adjusting the engine capacity, say add or subtract 1000cc from the existing setting and see if either way improves it. A log would be helpful too.

Map at the bottom of this post: Open two instances of PC Link side by side. Copy the CAN settings out of my map into yours.

Ok, set up below. Aux 1 will give a 2 second pulse when DI5 is turned on, Aux 2 will give a 2 second pulse when DI5 is switched off. Aux 2 will also give a 2 second pulse at key-on to make sure the valve? is closed. If you dont want a pulse at key-on like this then you can add a 3rd condition "RPM>500".

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

No, I cant see how any of the explanations above would have worked without an external pull-up resistor (since the original suzuki ECU had one internally). You will need to add your own 1kohm pull-up resistor to 5V like below. This will give you roughly: N=0V =1.79V =2.02V (I cant quite read the value of the 2nd resistor, 680 or 820?) =3.00V =3.64V =4.36V =4.69V

Does it cough or backfire or do anything at all? It was running with the old injectors wasnt it? I wouldnt worry too much about that yet, but if you put aux 4 in "test (pwm)" mode & 100Hz, does the tacho move?

Attach a log of the problem and a copy of your map. Also a bit more of a description of the problem would be helpful.

Ok, tell us which DI the switch is connected to and which aux outputs you want to use and I will post an example tomorrow.

So to confirm, you have a switch with 2 positions (on/off), and you want 1 aux to turn on for a set time when the switch is switched on, then a different aux turned on for a set time when you switch off?

This would be a WRX6+ ecu I assume? There is no ign 5 or 6 available on that ecu so it would be easiest to move the fans to ign 7&8 that are on the expansion connector. Coils need to be wired ti ign 1,2,3,4.

The HKS harness will usually route the TP sensor to AN Volt 4 and the MAP sensor to AN Volt 6, do you have these inputs assigned correctly?

There is almost nothing the tuner could have done remotely to make the valves clash on a 4G64/63. For the valves to hit the pistons it has either an assembly issue (inadequate P2V clearnace), a mechanical failure such as a broken valve spring, slipped cam pulley or belt, or had a massive over-rev causing valve float (Evo's arent prone to this due to the light rocker design).

Yep it can be done no worries. There is aux 11,12,13 on the expansion port and aux 7 & 8 that were used for the tumble valves that you could use to replace some of the repurposed inj/ign outputs. Triggers/cam sensors/VVT etc should be pretty much directly compatible.

The idle valve is configured on aux 3? A log would be more helpful to confirm what part of the cold start is not correct

That ECU should have 3 temp inputs and 8 AN volt. Ethanol sensor goes to a DI so that doesnt count. You should just about have enough by my count? Maybe need to move one AN volt to CAN?

Start by running the cam angle test on both the cams, to get the correct offset numbers for the DI and trig 2 VVT. Use a test pulse count of 6 for this test. Report back if that doesnt solve it. Use the smallest "cam angle #X" number from the runtimes screen below as your offset:

Actually after looking at the manual, it looks like you cant change the bit rate on the AEM wideband devices so it will be best to change the dash. In the Link ECU CAN settings, set the bitrate to 500Kbit. In race studio 3, dash configuration, change the "ECU model" to "500 BASE LCC"

No sorry, the G4 didnt have any CAN receive functionality.

Also, be aware some of the basemaps have MAF configured, but it is not actually doing anything, it is just there as a placeholder so the end user knows what is connected to that input.

The G4 ECUs, didnt use the Lambda 1 parameter, they used "Wideband 1". Still it is not working in the log, it just shows 7.4AFR the whole time. Valve float or ignition cut limiter with aggressive pops can cause the SR20 rockers to jump off. They usually break after they jump off. There is nothing obvious to show the misfire in the log. It would be nice if you got the wideband working. Have you checked all the basics like fuel pressure, base timing etc?

Yeah you are right, that was probably overlooked when that function was designed, we should really look at AP position when E-throttle is enabled. I will get that on the fixit list. You could make it work by changing the E-throttle "when stalled" setting to Run.

You are best to ditch the AFM since we dont have any calibration data for it. Our base map is set up to use MAP. Your car should have a factory fitted MAP sensor which is good for about 18psi boost. If you want to run higher than that then you will need to upgrade the map sensor. A proper IAT sensor in the manifold is highly recommended, they only have an airbox temp sensor originally which is not great for a speed density tune, especially since the air temps typically run high in those things. Our "quick tune" feature is more aimed at auto-tuning on the dyno where you can hold it reasonably steady state for a second or two, it will not be very useful for road tuning. The mixture map functionality works reasonable for road or track tuning. This doesnt make live changes during driving, but is used to correct the fuel table based on logged data.

If you want something cheap that will do this one job then a basic single channel one will do fine. I have had a play with one of these before and thought it was decent, Velleman PCSU01, USD$50: https://www.ebay.com/itm/272705051775 Or that one you linked to on Amazon looks ok, I just havent used one. If you want something a bit more useful to keep in your cupboard for future diagnostics, then a 2 channel gives much more opportunity. The Owon VDS1022 is about the best of the cheap ones that I have seen, about USD$80: https://www.ebay.com/itm/302320538379

No, Im saying the 3 specific gauges that they state "are only compatable with GM vehicles" probably wont work. All the others like RPM, speed, coolant temp etc will.