Adamw

You didnt state what model car you are talking about, but assuming a R32/R33 then yes the ecu will do it.

Please do a triggerscope as per the video above, we can then see what it is not happy about. Its quite possibly something simple like the arming threshold on trigger 2.

Ok, tweaked version attached. You had most of it pretty good. I added the cal for the temp sensors, changed a few settings like VVT frequency and VVT target table was a bit messed up. There seems to be some 1ZZ's with 36-2 crank and some with 36-4 on the crank. The 2NZ mode you have set in your map is for the 36-2 version. If you get erratic RPM when cranking do a triggerscope and we will confirm what yours has. 1zzbasemap Boomslang.pclr

Although neither of these are what I would call "pencil coils", the most common COP coils I see used in a variety of engines and put out a decent spark are the Toyota/denso 1NZ/1ZZ/Etc, available in a few different lengths. Another one gaining popularity recently is the R35 Nissan GTR coils, the snouts are removable on these so the length can be customised. Most of the true pencil coils I know of dont have built-in ignitors. Bosch/Porsche 0 986 221 051 looks promising size wise but I have no idea on its grunt or reliability.

Yep, either of those two outputs will be fine. From memory the old VR4's just had a temp switch in the radiator for the fan.

You have to hit enter after typing in a new offset, it should turn blue to indicate it has been applied. This catches out lots of users as for some reason this field behaves a bit different to most others in PC Link where you dont have to hit enter to make the change. A reference tooth at 80BTDC should convert to a trigger offset of -80 (or 280) depending on cam tooth position so you have guessed that right. Also, can you do us a triggerscope while cranking so we can see if there is anything to worry about there. Here is a quick video showing how to do that: https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPmieMTkwQDCXEb2LY

Correct, it is intended as a dashboard display only.

You have it right. You will have to run a completely new wire from pin 87 to the 4th coil/ignitor. For the AC relay I believe in that car they are powered up in the "ACC" key position so it could back feed if connected to a normal aux output, it will be best to connect to injector 7 (pin 52) as the injector drive wont back feed.

I guess the next step then is to get a LED test light or noid light etc connected to the ignition wire and see if it flashes with the ignition test on. Also make sure that Pin B does have continuity to ground.

So did you put all trigger settings back to the standard base map settings? Turn fuel off and check RPM when you are cranking - it should show about 150-250RPM if the trigger is ok. Next step would be to check the base timing, again with fuel off. It sounds like you should read the manual as it covers most of the first time start up procedure, you can download a copy from the ECU page: http://dealers.linkecu.com/NGTRPlus

Correct, falling is the correct setting for those coils. The MS terminology "going high" is a bit ambiguous and I suspect probably a leftover from old days when their DIY boxes had coil drivers built in. Pretty much all other ecu's nowadays use the same convention as we do which is "falling edge" means the coils spark on a falling edge (i.e. when the coil input pin is grounded). So, Im not sure if that helps your situation. There are a couple of different pinouts for the LS coils, I think yours should be the "LS2" wiring right?

If it is only a short spike then the error accumulator shouldnt count up which means you will be ok. Watch the TP/Target error accumulator and if i is getting over about 10 during normal use then you might need to improve it otherwise you should be good.

Its either 4 or 500mA from memory so you will have a hard time overloading it. Most common pressure sensors are about 10mA, so should have enough juice to power at least 30. So most likely a short. You can view the 5V output on the runtimes screen, so you can watch that while pluging in various sensors to find where the problem is.

LOL, so it is. At least my guess was right...

You said they failed when doing an ignition test though. The dwell table is not used when doing the ignition test, it just sends out a fixed 5ms dwell.

We received a similar email in Tech support from Hamish so Im going to post my email reply here also - just so we dont get too many conflicting comments. Based on the slightly different info we were given (misfires at idle) my thought is it is more fuel or ignition related problem rather than idle valve control (idle valve is not moving in log). So here are my thoughts or ideas to look at: I dont see anything glaringly obvious but I have a couple of thoughts & questions I will list... What is the injector resistance? Have you got a part number? Its pretty odd to use BAP as the load equation when you are using MAP/MGP on the fuel table. Typically it is only used with TP on the fuel table. Load = MAP looks like it would be the preferable option for this engine but would require completely re-tuning the fuel table. It is not common to have CLL active at idle so you should set up the RPM low lockout above normal Idle to prevent that acting. Not many older modified engines with poor port velocity and non-ideal injector placement/spray pattern will idle at stoich, I wouldnt be surprised if it is happiest around 13-14:1. I know you say you have already experimented with that but I just wanted to mention, try to keep a stoich target out of your mind and just give it what its happiest with. If you lock timing at idle and check it with a timing light, is it stable? Since you are wasted spark your offset could be 360deg out and it will still run - just injection will be squirting in 360deg too early/late. To test this you can either just try adding/subtracting 360 from your current offset to see if it runs any better, or turn on individual cylinder trim and add a negative -50% trim to cylinder 1. Then pull cyl 1 and 4 plug leads off alternatively to check if that killed #1 or # 4 cyl.

I can add it to the wish list but so far it appears you are the only user that has ever asked for it so it is a long way down... Im not sure I see it being useful for anything else except this specific gearbox.

I just googled Optispark, I had never heard of it. I expect it would work if you choose Nissan 360 Opto trigger mode and then run the "Test ECCS Sync" test.

Our base map looks fine to me. Was your pedal calibrated and showing 0%AP? Our base map table below: So on top of the 1.5% shown in the top left cell, for a cold start you should have about another 3% coming from the idle base position table and 2% in the startup step table. That should be a total of 6.5% approx, I would need to see a log to see where the 15% is coming from.

We dont have an option at this time. It is high on the to-do list but we havent even started to look at one yet so it will likely be more than a year away. There is significant CAN integration in this model, centre diff, dash, climate, ABS etc. Unfortunately a lot of it is too complicated for our generic user-defined CAN tools.

Use the GTS/GTR basemap, set triggers like below. Trigger offset is unknown so you will have to do that with a timing light. For the injectors, just change the master fuel. I would say 10-12 will be in the ballpark for E85 & 1000cc but just bump this up or down until it runs the smoothest.

Correct, it should have a stock solenoid in that car, usually you would just connect the new solenoid to the wires for the original valve. Wrong. One side goes to a switched +12V source. The other goes to an aux output. There are no aux outputs available on the expansion connector on that ECU, so you should connect it to aux 1/Pin 105.

The AC Request comes into the ECU on pin 46 (see position below). From what I can see I think it works opposite to how CJ interprets, this pin should be close to 0V when AC is off and about 12V when AC switch is on (anything more than 1.5V will be acceptable). Which way around it works is not so important anyhow, the main thing we want to ensure is that the voltage at this pin 46 changes when you switch the AC switch on/off. Check that and report back.

What ECU do you have, GTR/GTS plug-in? GTT plugin? or something else?

Sorry, I just found I had deleted/archived your email, I just made a change to your file and emailed it back. The AIM channel that was originally "secondary injector DC" should now display % eth with a bit of luck.