Adamw

Attach or share a short log that covers running into this problem area and a copy of your map: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

The bottom round port is RS232 and CAN only. The correct port for USB connection is the one with the Red o-ring. As per CJ's advice though, the ECU will need to be powered up.

I dont see any reason why you cant do that. Should be fine.

Sorry that was a typo or maybe autocorrect, it should have said "couldn't do gear cut based on analog..." We are hunting to see if we do still have any. I will update you later.

The G4 could not do gear cut based on an analog strain gauge type signal - only an on/off type digital signal. We used to sell a little "Gear Lever Interface" box with an adjustable threshold for what you want to do. I think last I heard we still had a couple in stock.

No we dont have any aux connected to the SAP pin. Yes the tumble valves are controlled by Aux 7 (Pin D22) & Aux 8 (pin D13).

Due to the odd throttle linkage thing those Zeds have I would be most suspicious of the throttle blade sync. I would look at some sort of test to verify. That could possibly be a second MAP sensor, two cheap vacuum gauges or maybe something like a change over valve so you can quickly switch your MAP from one plenium to the other...

Unknown really, but if your displayed TP value in PC Link changes when you connect your trans controller it suggests the controller has relatively low impedance and is influencing the signal.

Sorry, I must have set that up in a later test software. Attached a new copy that will work on current firmware. Barge Open loop2.pclr

Now I would suggest doing a firmware update, yours is very old. For idle control to work I would change it to open loop mode and adjust the whole table up or down to see if you can get any control over idle speed. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u54915wuLYc

Injector timing will only have a noticable effect at short duty cycles - say <25%. Once load increases and the injector is open for longer than that then there is simply not enough time to inject all the fuel into the ideal window. So you will gain some economy and often smoother running at low loads, but how much difference that makes to your overall fuel economy will depend what percentage of your time you spend running at low loads. Typically just a 2D table with RPM as the axis is all you need.

I see a couple of things you will need to fix. In your log the DI target fuel rail pressure is sitting at zero (so ECU is commanding 0 pressure). I think this is because you have turned off both axes on your DI Target pressure table. I suggest you start by setting this up similar to the VW Golf base map - just 2D with RPM on one axis. Put some realistic fuel pressure numbers in there - you will probably find some guidelines in your factory service manual. Same problem with your GDI pump compensation table, you have turned off both axes. I suggest you make this 2D similar to above but just populate the table with zeros so no compensation is applied initially. Pump calibration table needs to be filled out correctly, yours has all zeros at present. To do this you need to measure piston lift Vs crank rotation as per the help file. This one is not relevant to your rail rail pressure problem, but your injector settings wont work either, you have the peak duration set to zero. If you cannot get this info by measuring an OEM setup then you could try the VW Golf settings but be aware you can damage the injector if you give it too much current/voltage for too long.

Start by giving it a lot more fuel, your lambda is pegged at max lean in the log. Adjust the "master fuel" up until it runs cleaner (based on your comments above I think it will need to be about twice the size it is now so try about 15ms). If you havent already done so you will want to put a timing light on it and set the base timing also.

Sharing the signal doesnt work on the Skylines as the attessa system loads up the circuit too much and effects the TPS reading. On our plug-in ECU's we have a simple "opamp" circuit on board to do this. I will PM you a schematic of this if you are capable with electronics and want to do it yourself. There are no "analog outputs" on the thunder so you cant do it directly. You could use a PWM aux output with an RC filter to convert it into an analog voltage but it will be a bit of dicking around to get the calibration right. Otherwise you could go for the ready-made option from my mates over here: https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-038001-nissan-attesa-4wd-tps-adaptor/

Hi Barge, I just took a look at your map and run it on the simulator, it seems to work ok for me as is. 100% for first 30 seconds of run time, then drops to 67% if inj DC is less than 20%. Once I increase inj DC above 20%, fuel pump jumps up to 100%. This is a bit hard to explain but what you saw here is normal as the Subarus work opposite polarity to normal. Normally in Link 100% DC on an aux ouput means 100% ground. But subaru works opposite, 100% = 12V. When you use the "3 step" FP control method we invert the output DC display in the software so it is easier to understand then 100%DC means fuel pump running at 100%. When you change to the generic open loop mode then the software displays the real DC on the output, so 0%DC displayed = fuel pump running 100% max speed. I have attached your map modified to Open loop mode to duplicate how the original Subaru control works. You can use this if you want to try. Barge Open loop.pclr

I notice your Mivec is not working, Im not sure if thats your problem but it will be worth correcting. Most likely you just need to turn on the pull-up resistor for DI1 and it will work. For your wideband you can just use a custom calibration. Set up like below should do it. Have you confirmed fuel pressure is being maintained? I see you still have the FP speed control set up. There are no signs of trigger errors or limiters being applied by the ecu in your log so if enabling the Mivec doesnot help the problem and fuel press looks ok then I would be looking closer at the ignition system. Dwell is possibly excessive in your current map although I know you say you have tried less.

Ok, I have just taken a closer look at this today. The reason it was working on my Thunder is because it had the latest test firmware in it and this bug has been fixed. I just updated my Xtreme to the latest test firmware and tested your map and it is all working fine. So I can confirm this is fixed and will be in the next release. I dont think public release is too far away.

Ok, thanks the map helped. There is definitely a problem with this function. I was testing on a Thunder earlier, if I load your map into a Thunder it works as expected and power-cycles fine etc. However if I load it into an Xtreme it does behave odd and reverts to lowside after a powercycle as you mention. Im not sure if this is a hardware limitation in the Xtreme or a firmware problem. I will question engineering about it tomorrow. Unfortunately I think your only option now is to change the wiring to work with lowside because it may take some time to fix assuming it is fixable.

If aux 7 gives similar results then attach your map so I can test it on the bench here, in case you have missed a setting.

And this is definately a G4+ Xtreme, not a plug-in etc? Do you have one of the other high-side capable auxes available to try? Can you attach your map also.

That waveform above is correct for a tooth. However the area that you are getting confused with on the crank waveform is actually a "missing tooth". Missing tooth wheels are a little more difficult to see or visualise the correct polarity, you need to look at the gap area and you want the falling edge to be the most vertical zero crossing. Hopefully my picture below will help explain it, this picture shows the correct polarity.

I mean resistance between Aux 8 wire and ground, it should be about the same as your relay coil but I want to confirm

11.8V should be enough to engage a relay. Or was that measured without the relay connected? I tested this function on an ECU here and get close to battery voltage out with a 47ohm load connected. Can you pull the aux 8 wire out of the ECU connector and measure its resistance to ground - just to confirm there is no short somewhere. The symptoms you see suggest it may be overloaded. My poor 0.25W resistor didnt like 3W going through it for long.

Can you confirm if both the topend and bottomend are from non-vvti models

You can easily turn off overrun fuel cut as a test.