Adamw

Yes, that may happen since you have the key on, but relay out, some of the accesories will be powered up (such as boost valve etc), but the ECU is not powered up. The 12V from those auxilaries can backfeed through diodes etc in the ecu then "come out" of the pin 49/59. Yep, perfectly fine to do that and that will tell you if that relay is the problem or not. Just make sure that you do bridge 3&5 and not 1&2. bridging 1&2 will pop a fuse.

In that screenshot above the cam is bouncing between about 35 & 40deg. The target was 35deg so you could say 5deg either side of target. So that would definitely make a measurable difference to torque output but Im not sure how noticeable that would be to "seat of the pants". I dont see any evidence in your log that the throttle is oscillating so the VVT is a possible explanation. Looking at your log I think the reason for your original "throttle error" complaint is probably the E-throttle PID is too conservative so the throttle is too slow to react to small errors. In the example below you can see in the area where my yellow cursor is, the E-throttle 1 target is 2% but the TP main is sitting at 6% and kind of sits at 6% for a while before it finally corrects. If there is more than a couple of % difference betwwen the Target and TP main, for some short time period (sorry I dont know the time period of the top of my head) then the ECU will will increment the TP/Target error accumulator by 1, if the error persists it will continue to count upwards. In this log you can see it counted up to 5 before the error was small enough that the ECU was happy again so it start counting down again. If that error accumulator gets up to 100 then it will go into safety mode and shut down the throttle. The highest accumulator we see in that log is 5 so you are a long way off safety mode with normal driving but is possible with much more on/off throttle action in a race situation that could count up much faster. You could try the 1UZ PID settings from the help file and see if they help.

Sounds like that relay has worn contacts in that case.

You could be right, it seems higher than I expect at hot but they may run an especially high oil pressure for some reason (or there could be something wrong with the relief valve). In a previous life I used to build dry sump systems and the common ford oil filter that we had on the test bench would blow up like a balloon at about 130psi, so that is where my worry came from. If you have 110psi when hot I would expect it is quite a bit higher when cold. Yes that was my original thought but I was assuming these things had a more typical OP, like say 50psi. Now I dont really know. If your current oil pressure is normal then it looks like you will need to use the custom PID setting to get the cam control better.

There are a few discussions here already which may help. In terms of specs you dont need anything flash, the basic ones take a little while to connect up and display live data but once the app is running they have no problem keeping up. The most important thing is you will need one which has two usb ports or if only a single USB then it will need to be one that can do charge and data at the same time - many cant.

The 1U default PID's usually work fine on the 3U assuming oil press and viscosity is close to factory specs. The problem in this case I think is he has 70psi oil pressure at 1900RPM in that region of wonky cam control you show above. By 5000RPM it is showing 110psi if we can believe the oil press sensor... I would be worried about racing this car if this is true, the oil filter wont be far off exploding.

Pin 49 & 59 are the main power supply to the ecu so any voltage showing on those pins with the ECCS relay removed will be due to a back feed through the ECU. Most likely from the boost valve or idle valve coil if they are powered separately from the ECCS relay. A more helpful test would be check voltage on pin 49 or 59 with the ECCS relay connected and ignition on. Also while you are at it, check voltage between 49 & 10 (main ground). report back what you see there. The ECCS relay contacts are becoming a relatively common failure in the skylines so that would be my first thought.

A number around there 2kmh works best in most cases. Basically you dont want the idle control to work when the car is coasting. For instance during over-run down a hill your foot is off the pedal but the RPM is higher than normal so the idle control will close the throttle trying to bring the RPM down. Then as soon as you press in the clucth the engine will stall because the throttle cant open quick enough. To cover your "coasting in neutral" scenario your throttle target table and idle base position table need to be well set up so that when idle control is not active the throttle is still held in a reasonable starting position to achieve close to normal idle RPM.

Ok, idle speed control is not working at all in your log. It looks like there is a problem with the speed lockout in the old firmware that you are using. So first step, update to the latest firmware. Here is a video guide: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u54915wuLYc&t=1s After that set the speed lockout to driven wheel and 2kmh. Also change the RPM lockout to 500. Do us another log after those changes.

Yes, it has not been reported before or noticed in internal testing. It is now on the fix it list.

The bouncing idle doesnt appear to be caused by idle control, you idle valve control actually looks pretty good. A couple of things I notice; You have quite a lot of dwell scatter, this indicates the ecu is getting bad engine position information, which could mean the ignition timing is bouncing around too. Can you do a triggercope at normal idle speed and attach here. Here is a quick video showing how to do it. https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPmieMTkwQDCXEb2LY You obviously have very large injectors so a small injector pulse width at idle, this could possibly mean your injectors are becoming erratic and some cylinders are getting less fuel than others. As a quick test to eliminate this you could adjust the 4 highlighted cells in the Lambda target table - set them all to 0.95 and if idle smooths out then this could be your problem.

No it needs to be cam position with closed loop feedback, duty cycle alone is not useful with most VVT systems. Duty cycle just determines how much restriction is applied to the oil flow, which is not directly related to final cam position. If you just use say a fixed duty cycle you will get a different cam position everytime depending on oil pressure, oil temp, rpm etc. It might work if all you want is fully advanced/fully retarded and nothing in between.

Your deadtimes look ok assuming you are running 43.5psi fuel press. The oscillating throttle is most likely the PID not quite right. I can see in the log a little oscillation when you snap closed. If you are not confident with your PID tuning then you could try the values from our 2 different 350Z base maps and see if they behave any better. For tuning E-throttle I find a time plot similar to below running live is the easiest way to see how it is responding. You can set the E-throttle to run when stalled so you dont need the engine running to play with it. You can see the oscillation in your TP main when the throttle is near closed is this example. It is normal to have a slight undershoot in this area but yours is too much and could become unstable. FYI, here's the settings from our Auto 350Z base map: And the manual basemap:

To add a little more info to Simon's response; I've only ever set up one V8 with a MSD distributor and its rotor to reluctor phasing was perfect for the 1 tooth per TDC mode without any "adjustable rotor" needed. Basically what this trigger mode does is during cranking (RPM<400) the ECU does not attempt to do any timing control at all - it just fires a spark at the instant it sees a tooth so this makes cranking timing very stable as the ecu does not need to predict advance when crankshaft speed is erratic. It does mean however that the teeth need to occur at a suitable position for cranking timing - as Simon says 0-10deg BTDC would be good for most engines. So to set this up, manually turn the motor so it is resting at about 10deg BTDC #1. Rotate the distributor body so that one of the reluctor teeth is perfectly centred under the sensor. Now look at the cap post position in relation to the rotor and the rotor should be just "leaving" the post. If the rotor is not in the right position then you will have to change the phasing somehow. Sometimes that may be an adjustable rotor, move the sensor, or file a new "key" to locate the cap.

My initial thought is I dont think traction control will work well on a car like this... Its been a long time since I played with the GTR attesa system but my recollection is it basically behaves like a rear wheel drive under normal driving conditions, the centre clutch pack is fully disengaged and there is no drive to the front diff. The centre clutch pressure is only increased progressively after certain input thresholds are met, from memory the main ones were, wheel slip, accelerometer and TP. So if you use a wheel slip based traction control set up in the Link ecu, then the attesa ecu will see much less slip and either wont engage front drive or will engage it much less than it normally would. So I think the end result of enabling traction control will be a near 2WD car with actually less traction than without it.

Thanks, I can reproduce this and am seeing the same as you. Even though there are no auxiliaries assigned to fan the ISC still observes the fan enable settings in the aux menu. Im not sure if that is a bug or it was designed that way but I will pass it on to engineering to take a look. In the meantime you can adjust the fan temperatures to 150°C to prevent that parameter ever becoming active under normal operating conditions. To answer your question, the only place the "Fan" parameter is used would be the idle speed control, fan step and possibly the AC Clutch control when in advanced "full" mode.

Are there any aux outputs still assigned to "engine fan" (check ignition and fuel auxes also)? If you attach a copy of your tune file I can run it on the bench here to test. As far as I know, provided there are no auxes assigned the engine fan 1/2/3, then that fan idle step shouldnt have an effect.

Here is how to do the log: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

Yep that will be fine.

Note the G4 was discontinued around 2014, the current generation is G4+ and has only been around since about that time, it still has a few years in it yet but development will slow as the new generation gets closer and the G4+ runs out of hardware resources. We are working on the next generation but it is still quite some time off, my guess would be something like 2 years before it is ready for public. Maybe a more realistic question would be "what feature do you need that the current ecu cant do?" The reason for continuous development is that new engines come out every year with new features added that the existing hardware was never designed to work with so we must continue to keep up with it. Your engine is an old design and unlikely to change much so a lot of the new hardware features in the next generation are unlikely to be of huge benefit to you. For instance over that last few years it has become common to see over 100degress of VVT camshaft movement and stuff like DC servo or CAN bus controlled variable valve lift, so this is the type of stuff that the existing hardware cant do. Im sure as we get more powerful hardware there will be other nice software features and improvements made but these are usually "nice to have" rather than "must have". This is only on the very low end " carburettor replacement" style boxes. The type of engines those go onto barely need to be tuned. It is usually a cast iron 2V 9:1 compression, bathtub combustion chamber lemon that wont knock at 40deg on 91octane and will be happy with an AFR anywhere between 10:1 and 16:1. I dont think I would be looking at that type of strategy for a GTR.

For Throttle target there is not really any right or wrong - it purely comes down to driver preference. Some like lethargic movement for the first 50%, others prefer the more snappy feel as soon as they touch the pedal. Yeah I agree, that is a bit of a weird setup and it could cause a fairly odd driving feel. However the target table is unlikely to have caused any errors. The PID's in your self tuned map are no different than the original map. TP calibration looks a bit odd too as both Sub and main voltages are identical, unless both inputs are wired to the same sensor, that is too much of a coincidence to be correct. Can you do a PC log of a short drive, that should give us some clues to what is causing your error.

Did you re-tune the PID after removing those springs? I wouldnt have expected the lack of springs preventing you from gaining decent control unless there was some issue with mechanical backlash etc? I suggest a 2 wire solenoid type. The common Bosch 2 wire ones would be worth looking at as they flow plenty and are easy to plumb. One wire goes to a switched 12V supply the other side goes to any spare aux 1-8. If you remove E-throttle then you could use Aux 4 which originally drives the throttle motor. Otherwise Aux 5 or 6 are only used for the original narrowband oxy sensor heaters so they arent really needed. If your car only has the 2 VVT cams then you will also have Aux 3 & 5 free.

You need to swap the Sub/Main signal wires. The TP must go 0-100, the sub can top out earlier. Im still not sure that will be the cause of all of your problems but the ECU wont like it and will go into limp mode if held above 60% for a period of time. Please swap those wires, do a re-cal then post a log if its still not right.

Note you can also make your main RPM limit table 3D to add extra parameters. Fuel pressure protection for instance if you use Differential pressure it should be relatively constant under all conditions so you dont need a full 3D table - you could just put it on one axis of the RPM limit table.

2A lowside drive or 0.5A in highside drive mode.