Adamw

This should be no problem to control. 12V & Ground, then any spare aux 1-4 to the "signal" pin. I dont have a pinout for that valve so you will have to work that out yourself.

It looks like you have most of the basics right to me. A couple of things you should change; turn off the IAT trim table (generally not needed with modelled mode.), Turn off the AFR/Lambda target overlay table (not doing anything). Upgrade to latest firmware. Turnoff CLL during tuning and try using the mixture map a little. It looks like you need a bit more work on the fuel table just above idle and light cruise as you have a fairly lean area (assuming diff Fuel pressure is controlling well).

When you blip the throttle the idle valve will return to whatever position is in the base position table. If the base position table is incorrect then the engine RPM will settle outside of the control range so closed loop will never engage. It appears your base position table hasn’t been tuned at all. You need to switch idle control mode to open loop and tune the base position table properly before switching to closed loop. There is a guide in the help file.

The bottom screenshot above shows that ignition 4 is on when DI3 is on, so the ECU seems to be doing what it’s meant to be. If your AC clutch is not engaging when PCLink shows AI4 is on then you likely have a wiring issue. You can set AI4 function to “Test(on)” mode to check your wiring.

Please attach a copy of your map

1. Yes, in “multi group” injection mode the injector drives are fired odd/even, so just connect one bank to inj drive 1, and 2nd bank to inj 2. 2. The Atom inj drives can do about 5A each so just one drive per bank is needed. 3. I would guess the distributor just has an 8 tooth “chopper disc” inside? If so this will be fine. Even with the distributor you could still have the Atom control ignition advance which will often give you better idle control than air valve alone. To do wasted spark you would need some different chopper wheel to get a “sync” reference. You might just be able to cut one tooth off to make it 8-1. You will probably want a MAP sensor and may need an ignitor if you want to control the coil (not sure if these engines already have an ignitor fitted).

The knock pin is the only one missing in the current PC Link release. It has been included in the next release. Our plugin pinouts usually only show the pins that are relevant to the installer/end user, there often others that are connected but are dedicated to things like main relay control, power, grounds etc. If you need something more specific you can look at a FSM or email your question to [email protected] and we may be able to give more detail.

Is it even powering up? Does the blue led light up?

I will bring this one to @Simon ‘s attention to see if he can help. I think I have heard this issue reported before so I suspect we may have a polarity setting wrong in the base map. I can’t help much further with what I have access to on holiday.

Some of these engines have very low voltage from the cam sensor at cranking speed so your arming threshold table might need some adjustment. Please unplug the coils (so it doesn’t start) and do a trigger scope while cranking. Save as a log file and post that here.

Try the basic setup below. Set "upshift digital input" to the DI that is connected to the Clutch switch. Leave downshift digital input set to off. The gear detection/gear ratios will need to be set up and working first. With these example settings below; when RPM is >3000 & <9000 & TP is <30%, you will get a 25%throttle blip for 100ms everytime the clutch is pressed. Note, upshift gear cut will not work if you have brake switch in series, I would try using just clutch switch only initially and only add brake switch if needed.

It’s pretty simple to do your own, see the video in this other post for the basic process:

You can use any aux 1-5 for the vvt solenoid. I also suspect your idle valve may actually not be what we call a “3 wire” type. I think it maybe like the Subaru type that has 12V, ground, & signal? Have you got any info about it or a wiring diagram? if you have 24-1 crank and 1 tooth on cam then it should start and run, just leave the vvt solenoid unplugged. I don’t think you will be able to get vvt to work if you have changed to a 24-1 crank trigger.

All our ecus have one built in so nothing needed at ecu end, but the Link CAN lambda doesn’t (to allow multiple lambdas on same bus). So you should add a 120ohm resistor near the far end of the bus. Having said that if your bus is less than about 2 meters long then it will usually work fine without the termination at the far end - always best to do it right first time though.

A clutch switch will not be suitable to activate a downshift blip since you will also use clutch for upshifts, stops, etc. a brake switch is not suitable either as you often brake without shifting. Even if you wired them in series so both clutch and brake need to be depressed together then you would get a blip on start line and every time you engage a gear from neutral etc.

Sorry, no. Distance parameters are not something we have in the firmware at present and I can’t think of any other incrementing type parameter that we could use as a workaround in this case.

You will need some means of indicating a downshift event. This is difficult with an H pattern gearbox as the direction of gearlever force can be in either direction. The ecu can’t tell whether you are doing an upshift or downshift. Downshift Blip really needs a sequential shift pattern to work.

I believe there is a problem with OpenGL that the surface graphs use (3D maps) when running xp. Unfortunately I don’t know the workaround of the top of my head and am overseas on holiday. If you have another pc that has something newer than xp something you could try would be open up pclink, delete the surface view then save the layout. copy that layout to the laptop with XP and I think it would work. As for your other question, a G4 cannot run the G4+ firmware.

Hi Yuto, Have you already completed the TP and AP calibration procedures? Does the throttle blade move when you run the TP calibration? When in "ON" mode, the ECU will shut down the Ethrottle power (aux 6) if there are any significant errors, so the fault 74 is just caused by this and it is normal behaviour.

Hi Brad, I haven't been able to download your log, not sure if I have an internet problem here or if your attachment isn't working but never mind. could you try sharing them via OneDrive or google drive etc? Wasted spark ignition often creates a lot of electrical noise so with low resistance leads I would defiantly have some suspicions of this. Have you still got your old leads to try?

Timmy has it correct.

If you are wanting to run dedicated E85 full time (not a variable blend or flex fuel) then I see no reason why you could not achieve just as good drivability as petrol. Consumption may need to be considered if you do 4 hrs of driving a day.

You need to explain better what the problem is. Are you saying the ecu is staying alive after you turn the key off?

Link is closed for holiday until 3rd Jan. Send an email to tech @ linkecu.com. I’m presently lying by a pool in Thailand with a cocktail in hand. I only have cell phone access so can’t help with pinouts from here.

Polarity would be low for a fuel pump with a normally open relay if wired as above