Adamw

Generally to assign an input or output you go to the function you want to set up and assign it there.  So for example the fuel pump, go to >aux outputs>fuel pump.  Set pump control method to "standard", then set pump relay output to Aux 1.  It will pop-up with a message something like "ISC solenoid is already connected to aux 1, would you like to disconnect ISC solenoid", choose yes and it will remove aux 1 from the ISC function and connect it to the fuel pump function.  

Should look something like this (are you sure it should be highside drive?): 

 
Hysteresis on a GP output is explained in the help file here: 

 

Im not sure if this will be any help to you with my english voice, but here is an old video I done to show someone else how to set up realdash: https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPxSh4fEj7PSJbW2lG?e=LCbT9H
 
 

It was originally planned for this week but we found a backwards compatibility issue with old firmware so they are working on fixing that.  Might still be a couple of weeks.  

It was originally planned for this week but we found a backwards compatibility issue with old firmware so they are working on fixing that.  Might still be a couple of weeks.  

It needs to be tuned now by someone with experience.  
Idle is in open loop mode so it is not targeting anything.  Your MAP sensor calibration is wrong, it should read the same as BAP with engine off.  Idle MAP lockout is too low - this may be ok when MAP sensor calibration is corrected, but currently Idle control is locked out because MAP is above the lockout. The bogging is due to accel fuel cold correction set to zero.  IAT trim should be turned off in modelled mode.  4D fuel table should be turned off if you dont have TGV. Your fuel table is a complete mess. Update firmware as yours is old and you want the latest before tuning.    
 

It was originally planned for this week but we found a backwards compatibility issue with old firmware so they are working on fixing that.  Might still be a couple of weeks.  

Hmm, still doesnt look right.  Not much movement in MAP there and it is showing about 0.8V, it should be a bit above 1.0V for atmosphere.  
Have you moved only the ANV 1 wire like so?

It looks correct enough, I would change a couple of things:
I would change cut effect to adaptive.  This means the cylinders will be cut in a randomised pattern.  With constant mode at some specific conditions you can end up with the same cylinders continuously being cut so it is very hard on the crankshaft etc.   Start Cut TP 100 may need to be a bit higher (often around 60%).  This is the amount of cut that first gets applied when the control range is entered.  If too small there may not be enough cut to prevent an overshoot condition when engine acceleration is very high (ie when wheels come off the ground or boat leaping out of the water at WOT). Cut decay time could possibly be reduced - it may feel slow to recover after a limit at 100ms.   

Drop the numbers in the idle base position table down to about 4% - this is how much the throttle is open for idle.  You have ~40% in there now.  Also in idle actuator settings change start up offset to 0% - this is how much extra the throttle is held open for start up, change the integral gain to 0.05 and change the max clamp to 8%.  That should be closer.
 

Let me get a bit more info off the engineers how this trigger mode works, im not sure if it uses raw MAP sensor voltage or if it converts it to a pressure drop first and what type of pressure/voltage drop it requires to satisfy the sync test.  Might be a day or two as they are neck deep in it at the moment.  

The base map will give you the basic fuel and ignition settings.  You will have to manually assign all the correct inputs and outputs to match your wiring.  ie you need to set which aux output the fuel pump and fan are connected to, which inputs the TPS, MAP & temp sensors are connected to and set there correct calibrations etc.

Yeah that would work fine.  

You can see after you lifted off at the end of the first pull that your knock level went above the threshold from about 6250 to 5700RPM.  This has resulted in a knock trim being applied between these RPM's.  The knock trim gets written into the knock trim table so that when the engine next passes through this same RPM band it gets the same knock trim applied (whether it is knocking or not).  Only after the engine has been operating in that RPM band for some time (Ign advance delay) without knock, then the ecu will start slowly removing the knock trim (ign advance rate).  
So a couple of things you could do to fix:
Increase threshold in the high RPM/low MAP cells that it passes through after you lift off.  I have highlighted the cells in the table below that are causing the problem. Add MAP or TP to the Y axis of the knock trim table so that the trim doesnt get applied to the same RPM regardless of load.
 
 
 

I think you will be in bootloader mode if you dont have pin 4 grounded.  From the manual:

You will need to run new wires back to the ecu, the original pressure switch wire only went to the dash warning light, not to the ecu.  

That map is a complete mess, you would be best to use our base map as there is so much stuff messed up in that map it is going to be better to start with something that is closer to correct.    Once running with our base map then you need to get a tuner involved before driving it.  

Ah, unfortunately no, only the native name for those lists at present.

I would also suspect due to the 2 trigger wheels on the crank with thge unique groups of teeth that the OEM ecu (assuming wasted spark ignition) could probably sync and spark after a little more than 120deg crank rotation.  With the Link ECU using only the 12T wheel it will need to see the cam tooth before it has enough information to sync and spark - this could take as much as 720deg crank rotation.  However, this is common with many basic trigger systems and wouldnt usually take more than about 1 second. 
As well as the info the Vaughan requested, a triggerscope taken while cranking will help confirm that the arming thresholds are set appropriately.   

The F40 has just 4 teeth on the crank and 2 on the cam.  
144 on the flywheel is not going to work with a cam sensor.  The problem is there is only 2.5deg of space between each crank tooth.  So if you center the cam tooth exactly half way between two crank teeth then it would only take 1.25deg of cam movement either way due to drive backlash (cam belt/chain/tension/keyways etc), then the cam tooth would would suddenly occur 1 crank tooth earlier or later than expected so this would cause a trigger error.  
Usually engines with a high tooth count flywheel trigger would have an extra sensor with a single "TDC peg" somewhere on the flywheel to sync - but they are typically not capable of direct spark or sequential.     
You are probably best to fit a missing tooth trigger wheel at the front.

Password protection is absolutely required for many different reasons.  There are plans to allow more granular protection of some features in future but it is complicated and not being worked on at present.
In some regions the tuner has to certify compliance with emissions laws as part of the tune.  Some engine builders that give guaranteed engine life lock the tune so that the safeties cant be removed.  In some regions the consumers are very "sue happy" if something fails so the tuner may lock the tune to protect himself from any changes that could cause failure.    Sometimes the tuner just isnt happy with the customers level of competence.  I have for example had one of my customers at the race track wipe the whole tune out trying to get the car to start when he forgot to turn the fuel pump switch on.   Sometimes the tuner may have significant IP invested in the tune that he doesnt want shared.  It may be OEM CAN bus work or for example he may have developed a charge temp table for that specific engine over several months.   Security/valet mode/different driver levels etc. Scrutineering/single model series.

-170 on the trigger off set
 

You've got AN Volt 2 & 3 set up as pedal sensors, these are the the TP sensors.  You have the TP sensors set up as AN Volt 9 & 10, these are your pedal sensors.  So you need to swap these.  Copy the correct settings from our WRX V10 base map.

Password protection is absolutely required for many different reasons.  There are plans to allow more granular protection of some features in future but it is complicated and not being worked on at present.
In some regions the tuner has to certify compliance with emissions laws as part of the tune.  Some engine builders that give guaranteed engine life lock the tune so that the safeties cant be removed.  In some regions the consumers are very "sue happy" if something fails so the tuner may lock the tune to protect himself from any changes that could cause failure.    Sometimes the tuner just isnt happy with the customers level of competence.  I have for example had one of my customers at the race track wipe the whole tune out trying to get the car to start when he forgot to turn the fuel pump switch on.   Sometimes the tuner may have significant IP invested in the tune that he doesnt want shared.  It may be OEM CAN bus work or for example he may have developed a charge temp table for that specific engine over several months.   Security/valet mode/different driver levels etc. Scrutineering/single model series.

That is normal.  The DI's pull-up is regulated 12V, the trig 2 pull-up is 5V.  The only important requirement is that the voltage rises above 1.5V when the sensor is not grounding it and falls below 1.0V when the sensor is grounding it.